keirz Posted August 29, 2007 Share Posted August 29, 2007 gonna get on to the job of fitting my hks actuator. just need a few things clarifying.1) the standard actuator has two pipes of it. one to turbo and one to the hi/low. as i have bypassed the hi/lo and have no intention of reusing it do i just conect the pipe from the turbo to my hks unit and leave the hi/lo one diconected?2) does the brass nipple just jam in the pipe off the actuator to the turbo. so just a case of pushing it in and then connecting the pipe?3) do you have to remove the efi pipe or is this just for access. as it looks and i have been told it is a pain in the arse. can the actuator be changed without removing it?4) running 0.7 bar will be fine on stock engine and will be no where near fuel cut right?any help appreciated.keiran Link to post Share on other sites
montanajr Posted August 29, 2007 Share Posted August 29, 2007 1) Yup, the new HKS tubing goes from actuator to turbo if you want to bypass hi/lo, then you can disconnect all the tubing going to the solenoid. 2) Just push the brass nipple into the black tubing on the actuator side.3) Yeah you'll have to remove it in order to remove the standard actuator/put in the hks one. It is a bitch to get off as there is no space and its on very tight. Give it 15mins of struggling and it comes off! lol4) I'm running 0.7bar with no fuelling mods and everything is fine. No boost creep either.Hope that helps. Link to post Share on other sites
keirz Posted August 29, 2007 Author Share Posted August 29, 2007 ok cool. thanks for that mate. im sure i heard of someone fitting it without removing the ei pipe. think i may give it a go first and if it wont come out then i will have to tackle the efi, really dont want to though as every one says how difficult it is. Link to post Share on other sites
Nick_p Posted August 29, 2007 Share Posted August 29, 2007 Cheers for posting this dude, am also gonna be fitting one of these and was wondering about the brass nipple?!? Link to post Share on other sites
Glanza_Ragger Posted August 29, 2007 Share Posted August 29, 2007 You dont need to remove the EFI pipe to remove the actuator bud.should be a piece of pish to remove the standard actuator with the efi pipe in place.Just make sure you dont lose the circlip on the hks actuator arm.Have a bag of spares at the ready youll need them!Just run the vacum from the actuator straight to turbo, dont use it with the hi/lo solenoid because it pisses it all up.Run the boost setting off the actuator untill you purchase an electronic controller. Link to post Share on other sites
montanajr Posted August 29, 2007 Share Posted August 29, 2007 Yeah don't use the circlip! I lost mine it pinged off somewhere! I had no room with the efi pipe in place, you must have the hands of a child! lol Link to post Share on other sites
Glanza_Ragger Posted August 29, 2007 Share Posted August 29, 2007 Yeah don't use the circlip! I lost mine it pinged off somewhere! I had no room with the efi pipe in place, you must have the hands of a child! lolor just bribe a child with candy to do it Link to post Share on other sites
keirz Posted August 29, 2007 Author Share Posted August 29, 2007 well.......... i took it down to my cousin earlier who is a machanic. he said with his tools he can take the actuator off without removing anything, so i think he may be doing it for me tommorow if he isnt busy. the little clip thing i think is really gonna piss me off during the set up stage. obviously i will have to keep taking it off the adjust to the right boost. theres gotta be a better clip to use???i have set up the hks unit to 125mm which should see me around 0.7 bar. but gonna try and get it to the exact same lenght of the standard actuator. hope i get it right first time.i noticed earlier that high up the revs my boost seems to drop off, would i be right in thinking this is due to the standard actuator being weak? Link to post Share on other sites
montanajr Posted August 29, 2007 Share Posted August 29, 2007 Could be a weak actuator yes. As for 125mm, I set mine to 123mm to get 11psi and only managed 9. So I think it varies from actuator to actuator and will be different. Its a pain to keep adjusting, but some people suggested using an R clip instead.As you can see, it would be much easier to get on/off. Link to post Share on other sites
Glanza_Ragger Posted August 29, 2007 Share Posted August 29, 2007 yeah, as stated.Buy an R clip from any model shop that sells remote control car parts etc.There the clips that are used to hold the body shells onto the model chassis.that way you can jus pull it out with youre fingers Simple.Its a case of adjust it and check.Adjust it a bit more and check again.Bit of a pain but thats life.yeah the stock actuators bleed off boost.Thats why uprated actuators are one of the first items to swap.Its due to the stock actuators having small holes at the base of it, which lets pressure escape. Link to post Share on other sites
keirz Posted August 29, 2007 Author Share Posted August 29, 2007 awsome!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!i have loads of them clips already, sweet! it was the first time i noticed the drop in boost today, sure it wasnt doing it before. maybe it had some thing to do with me removing the intercooler and the hard pipe. i damaged the paper gasket but managed to peice it back together, maybe this is why too? or would could it be the jubilee clips arnt tight enought? Link to post Share on other sites
Glanza_Ragger Posted August 29, 2007 Share Posted August 29, 2007 awsome!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!i have loads of them clips already, sweet! it was the first time i noticed the drop in boost today, sure it wasnt doing it before. maybe it had some thing to do with me removing the intercooler and the hard pipe. i damaged the paper gasket but managed to peice it back together, maybe this is why too? or would could it be the jubilee clips arnt tight enought?Ah if youve had the intercooler off, youre probably leaking boost from either a hose or that gasket.Buy a new gasket from toyota, think there about £3and re check all the jubilees are tight and none of the hoses are slipping off etc If you havent noticed it before you removed the intercooler, thats youre problem matey.If youre running high'ish boost you can normally hear a whistling noise as the boost pressure is escaping out of a gap, but when youre running near standard boost which is next to nothing, you wont probably wont hear anything They really are a piece of cake to fit and set Maybe you could bang a How 2 up for the rest of the lads Link to post Share on other sites
keirz Posted August 29, 2007 Author Share Posted August 29, 2007 cheers ragger. there is a really good how to on dubse7ens site below http://www.dubse7en.co.uk/starlet/yeah i never noticed the drop before. i had the intercooler off to clean the rocker. and the hardpipe off to take a better look at the actuator. to be honest one of the jubilee clips didnt really want to tighten too much, but its prob the gasket to be honest. any part numbers about for the gasket? Link to post Share on other sites
keirz Posted August 29, 2007 Author Share Posted August 29, 2007 Gasket between turbo and intercooler piping. Part number : 17277-11020 Price : £3.06 answered my own question! woop woop. Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Enzo Posted August 29, 2007 Share Posted August 29, 2007 you should go out and tune the actuater to 12 psi, there should be no side effects atallmake sure the pipe is on the actuater properly otherwise your turbo will shit itself like mine did lol Link to post Share on other sites
keirz Posted August 30, 2007 Author Share Posted August 30, 2007 so 12psi, is 0.8 bar right? i was thinking going for 0.8 bar as i heard as long as its under fuel cut the ecu can fuel correctly.will there be any long term ill effects of running 0.8 bar on a completely standard engine?turbo shitting itself!!! that sounds bad.......... do you just use the rip ties provided to hold the pipe on or is recommended to get a jubilee clip? Link to post Share on other sites
keirz Posted August 30, 2007 Author Share Posted August 30, 2007 ok problem!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!fitted my actuator, set to 123mm. when fitted the actuator arm would not reach the wastegate, so i had to lenghten it. my car is only boosting 0.5 bar. to up the boost i need to shorten the arm right, but i cant shorten it any further because it wont reach the wastegate.am i being stupid, i need help??? what am i doing wrong? Link to post Share on other sites
Glanza_Ragger Posted August 30, 2007 Share Posted August 30, 2007 LMAO @ Enzo. Unlucky bud!! im guessing it didnt have any bogroll handy? No mate, youre not being stupid.If you have the actuator mounted to the turbo, and then try and get the actuator arm to reach the wastegate it wont.It will be UBER short.What you wanna do, is attatch the actuator arm to the wastegate first!Then use a mate if ones handy, to use brute force to pull the actuator mount in line with the turbo mount holes.Whack the bolts in finger tight then torque up with a spanner.You need literally brute force to pull the actuator arm open.Bit of a bitch, but it will reach.Another way you can do it, is get some small vice grips.Pull the actuator arm out as far as you possibly can, then clamp the vice grips around the arm at the base of the actuator, so that the arm cant pull back in.That way it will be easier to line the actuator arm up with the wastegate and mount it to the turbo.when its all bolted up, jus unclamp the grips.Et Voila Link to post Share on other sites
montanajr Posted August 30, 2007 Share Posted August 30, 2007 I managed to pull the actuator arm out enough to whack it in Link to post Share on other sites
keirz Posted August 30, 2007 Author Share Posted August 30, 2007 all done now.oooops, turned too much and hit fuel cut, could this have done any damage? Link to post Share on other sites
Glanza_Ragger Posted August 30, 2007 Share Posted August 30, 2007 I managed to pull the actuator arm out enough to whack it in Yeah it does need a bit of force to pull the arm out, but you'll manage it.Unless youre built like peggy mitchell from eastenders Nah you wont do any damage if you only hit it a few times.You dont want to be hitting it constantly though bud, Get it adjusted spot on as soon as you can Link to post Share on other sites
montanajr Posted August 30, 2007 Share Posted August 30, 2007 You got a mechanical boost gauge im assuming? My actuator seemed like 1 turn = 1psi so give that a try! Link to post Share on other sites
keirz Posted August 30, 2007 Author Share Posted August 30, 2007 yeah it creeped up to 1 bar only hit it once so hopefully its ok.ive now adjusted it to a steady 0.8 bar with no boost cut in sight, pulls nicely too. burnt my hands though as i was to impatient to wait for it to cool down Link to post Share on other sites
Glanza_Ragger Posted August 30, 2007 Share Posted August 30, 2007 yeah it creeped up to 1 bar only hit it once so hopefully its ok.ive now adjusted it to a steady 0.8 bar with no boost cut in sight, pulls nicely too. burnt my hands though as i was to impatient to wait for it to cool down L O L ouch ive done the same thing too many times..At least ill never be caught at a crime scene now *this guy had no fingerprints!!* Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Enzo Posted November 12, 2007 Share Posted November 12, 2007 lol abit of advice, i use a pinch bar to get the arm out of the actuater to mount it to the turbo, its the easiest way i find Link to post Share on other sites
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