mattglanza79 Posted July 13, 2013 Share Posted July 13, 2013 Currently running 0.9 bar on stock mani and tmic . Using hks actuater and someone previous has fit a fcd. Do I lengthern actuator or shortern to turn boost down to 0.8 or should I leave at 0.9. Not my daily but domt wanna break it again !!!!!! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Weyro Posted July 13, 2013 Share Posted July 13, 2013 Lengthen it to turn boost down Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RobSR Posted July 13, 2013 Share Posted July 13, 2013 ...and take the fcd off if your only going to be running .8 bar. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Weyro Posted July 13, 2013 Share Posted July 13, 2013 if its an HKS turn it to setting 12, if not an HKS just leave it Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mattglanza79 Posted July 18, 2013 Author Share Posted July 18, 2013 Lengtherned rod. Get 0.8 in third but 0.9 in fourth. Gauge needle does rattle a bit mind . Any ideas. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Danb Posted July 18, 2013 Share Posted July 18, 2013 Lengtherned rod. Get 0.8 in third but 0.9 in fourth. Gauge needle does rattle a bit mind . Any ideas. better boost gauge Quote Link to post Share on other sites
shorty Posted July 18, 2013 Share Posted July 18, 2013 Id not touch the boost with a stock mani in place and set it back to stock. As unless its been ported the next thread you post will be "why has my third piston melted?" You need to remember the massive restriction in the third runner of the oem manis. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mattglanza79 Posted July 18, 2013 Author Share Posted July 18, 2013 Thats what I am trying to do mate. What is stock boost Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Flaminsam Posted July 18, 2013 Share Posted July 18, 2013 Stock boost I believe is 0.5 on low boost and 0.7 on high I believe? The reason why you will be getting a higher boost reading in fourth is because the turbo is flowing more than the engine can take in. Fourth is roughly 1:1 in a starlet or glanza, so third would be a under drive allowing the engine to rev up quicker making use of the air within the inlet manifold. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mattglanza79 Posted July 18, 2013 Author Share Posted July 18, 2013 Flat out in 4th gauge is still showing around 0.9 bar. But set actuater to 125 mm which would roughly be 0.7 bar. Now scratching my head Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ryan_EP82 GT Posted July 19, 2013 Share Posted July 19, 2013 (edited) That's how it was for me when I was shortening it for more boost lol I spun it loads of times and it went up like 1 psi. Just twist it out a good 12 times (6 full revs) and see how you get on from there, might even need to up the boost a bit! Edited July 19, 2013 by Ryan_EP82 GT Quote Link to post Share on other sites
1990timeismoney Posted July 19, 2013 Share Posted July 19, 2013 http://dub-se7en.toyotagtturbo.com/useful_info/OTHER_PDFS/hksactuator.pdfThis will tell you the lenths for different boost ok the hks actuator Quote Link to post Share on other sites
1990timeismoney Posted July 19, 2013 Share Posted July 19, 2013 128mm = .5Bar or 7.25psi 123mm = .8Bar or 11.60psi 121mm = 1.0Bar or 14.50psi 119mm = 1.2Bar or 17.4psi Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mattglanza79 Posted July 19, 2013 Author Share Posted July 19, 2013 Done all that. Gettimg boost creep at about 5500 rpm in fourth. Takimg it too 0.9 bar Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ryan_EP82 GT Posted July 20, 2013 Share Posted July 20, 2013 Best porting out the wastegate hole slightly with a dremel then mate, helps prevent creep! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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