5e conversion trouble firing when cold

[beefy]

I did a 52 conversion and used the 4efte bit on my glnaza but when it is cold it doesn't like to start and when it does evenaully fire it splutters for few secounds then it runs fine I've been told it could be timimg I may need to time it to the 4e marks not the 5e marks any help would be great thank!!

[AdamB]

Have you checked ignition timing?

I assume you swapped the thermostat housing for the 4EFTE one?

You can try swapping the valve timing, but I don't think it will make much difference.

Edited September 5, 2013 by AdamB

[beefy]

I am guna try timing it with timing light and yea I swaped that over but I have a plug disconected on the housing for somthing because it snaped, someone said on here that u have to change the cambelt timing to the 4e marks and not the 5e because it closes the valves for better compression for turbo I need som help realy unsure ?

[mikey4410]

I reckon coolant temp sensor.

[beefy]

Wa the coolant temp sencor will make it do that when its cold and splutter?

[mikey4410]

The temp sensor senses when cold or warm.when cars starts initially ,ecu sends lots of extra fuel / choke happens.when warm it then adjusts fueling bqck down.if this aint happening it will hinder starting

[beefy]

There is a sensor unplugd under the distretor ? And yea I knw wa your saying but is it better to leave it on the 5e timing or put it on 4e marks on the cambelt?

[mikey4410]

Not gona say i know about timing marks because i havent a clue whatsoever but there is a sensor closest to the front of the car under the dizzy cap that has no wire going to it on mine also.its the next one thats the coolant temp sensor,then after that closest to bulkhead under dizzy is the rad fan switch mate.

[AdamB]

I would try the ignition timing with a timing light mate, that would be one cause if not set correctly.

As Mikey said depending on the sensor unplugged from the thermo housing is another.

If you use 4EFE, 4EFTE, 5EFE cams time it up to 4E marks. If you use 5EFHE cams use the 5E mark, this is because the cam specs are different, the opening and closing of the valves are different, only by a few degrees though, hence why I don't think its your problem.

Personally if its a rebuilt motor, I would have dialed them in using a DTI gauge and an adjustable cam pulley to get the cams spot on.

Edited September 5, 2013 by AdamB

[beefy]

Awh okk will check when I finsh work naw and it was a 5efhe non forged so its got all the bits of a 4efte u need so I will try timming it with a light and wa sencors are wat ?

[AdamB]

If its an FHE it should have the longer duration and higher lift cams.

Here's the thermostat housing :

Sensors 2 & 3 are something to do with Air con. Sensors 1 is for the ECU, sensor 4 is for the dash temp gauge

[beefy]

I have the 4e housing on it with the 4e sencors

[AdamB]

Use diagram above.

[beefy]

I think it has cured it nawe buy reconection the plug and is the same a the green plug

[AdamB]

The green plug is for the ecu, its the coolant temp sensor. So if that was the sensor with no wires on it, that will be your problem

[5e colin]

There is a sensor unplugd under the distretor ? And yea I knw wa your saying but is it better to leave it on the 5e timing or put it on 4e marks on the cambelt?

if she is turboed set her to 4e mark if its na u fitted leave 5e marks

setting the 5e on 4e marks/timing will produce more torque