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What supporting mods do i need? for 1.bar CT12


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(I dont know if this is the right place, sorry if not)




. Toyota Starlet Glanza V EP91 Specfication










Engine: its a 1300cc 4E-FTE DOHC 16V Turbo. Its currently running around 160 -170BHP




Modifications to the engine: Current modifications are bigger turbo CT12, XS Power Front mounted inter-cooler, full Stainless steel manifold back de-cat exhaust system about 3”. Zisco Performance exhaust manifold. HKS actuator, Apexi Type R boost controller. Uprated fuel pump, Sard Fuel pressure regulator, HKS fuel cut defender, she's running about 0.75 bar at the minute. just ordered a FPR with a Gauge so i can set the fuel pressure in conjunction with boost.



i want to get her to 1. Bar but safely so i want to support the turbo with other mods, i also dont know how to set the apexi up properly ive had a play anf roughly get the idea. does anyone know of anyone in the suffolk area that can help with that??.




Any help would be great cheers.



Pete


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they alter ure fueling ,and tell ure ecu everythings ok and not going over 12.3 psi (fuel cut) when in fact ure going to a bar or over.



fuel cut is there to save ure engine if a lean condition arrises,by fitting a fcd ure stopping the ecu save the engine.



i have seen first hand on my engine just how much they lean the fueling of on my a/f gauge.



if you want to up ure boost to over 12 psi get a jam or similar ecu as this will do things properly



other than the fcd the rest of that list above looks pretty good tbh


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Every starlet i've seen with CT turbo and stock ecu, FRP, pump, runs rich as F*ck over 0.8bar. Mine goes richer than 10:1. Only with lower fuel pressure of 2bars, with vac. hose attached, i can hold it near 10-10,5 at high rpm.


Only with a bigger turbo like T25 the stock ecu is fueling "lean" (~12.5:1)



I say, buy an wideband, check that fueling is ok and leave the FCD there if it's wotking. But 1 bar on ct is near the limit of the turbo, so maybe good time to go for a td04 or something...


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they alter ure fueling ,and tell ure ecu everythings ok and not going over 12.3 psi (fuel cut) when in fact ure going to a bar or over.

fuel cut is there to save ure engine if a lean condition arrises,by fitting a fcd ure stopping the ecu save the engine.

i have seen first hand on my engine just how much they lean the fueling of on my a/f gauge.

if you want to up ure boost to over 12 psi get a jam or similar ecu as this will do things properly

other than the fcd the rest of that list above looks pretty good tbh

ok i'll look into getting the ecu. i think i've missed a few bits off the list. its obviously got other nits done like cusco fully adjustable coilovers etc. thats just the engine. putting bigger discs onit and changing any perished parts over the winter. just to want her to die on my to quickly. will eventualy turn her into a beast. just started a aprenticeship in mechanical and electrical engineering. so when qualified. i'll be on here with a build thread hopefully.

ok i'll look into getting the ecu. i think i've missed a few bits off the list. its obviously got other nits done like cusco fully adjustable coilovers etc. thats just the engine. putting bigger discs onit and changing any perished parts over the winter. just to want her to die on my to quickly. will eventualy turn her into a beast. just started a aprenticeship in mechanical and electrical engineering. so when qualified. i'll be on here with a build thread hopefully.

Edited by PWG123
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Every starlet i've seen with CT turbo and stock ecu, FRP, pump, runs rich as F*ck over 0.8bar. Mine goes richer than 10:1. Only with lower fuel pressure of 2bars, with vac. hose attached, i can hold it near 10-10,5 at high rpm.

Only with a bigger turbo like T25 the stock ecu is fueling "lean" (~12.5:1)

I say, buy an wideband, check that fueling is ok and leave the FCD there if it's wotking. But 1 bar on ct is near the limit of the turbo, so maybe good time to go for a td04 or something...

yeah i'll probarly be at more like .95 just to be safe. yeah im thinking of that, just sorting everything else before. so make do with what i've got for now.

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^^ caveman tuning...

Thanks for the constructive criticism.......i've already said this is how i bought it. and im new to the turbo scene....and trying to get advice. I've garaged the car and bought a diesel winter as i was worried about the set up. hence why im asking.

Edited by PWG123
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and the advice has been given,the fact that u choose to ignore it is fine by me .lol

i am going by experience and experience of others.....

I wasn't ignoring your advice? i was referring to the caveman tunning...as i guess it was a dig at the set up..?

sorry bud it was meant more for mech5107 his advice is pretty archaic, mikey is spot on with his advice

Ohh ok i got the wrong end of the stick, sorry.

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What i'm trying to say is that Toyota tunned the stock ecu in a way that above normal (stock pressure) the engine runs very rich for safety reasons.


That's why people are able to run hybrids and td04 with stock ecu.



The FCD is totaly ok, knowing what you are doing (and in PWG123 case free!!!). So with a wideband and the sard FRP he has now, he can lean it a bit in high rpm, while ecu's close loop control will keep it at 14.7 in cruising and idle.



I personally don't like running full rich, loosing power and wasting petrol... :p


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The FCD is totaly ok, knowing what you are doing (and in PWG123 case free!!!). So with a wideband and the sard FRP he has now, he can lean it a bit in high rpm, while ecu's close loop control will keep it at 14.7 in cruising and idle.

How can you lean it out at the top end with just using a FPR? If you increase the base pressure it increases the fuel flow throughout the entire rev range, it doesn't adjust the injector opening periods at all. If you lower the base pressure you will likely run lean at the lower end of the rev range/when at maximum VE.

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Totally disagree,the fuelings altered alot by the fcd.

there not ok at all.use one at ure peril

Well the fact you said your going by your experiance and experiance of others and two people agree with you i'll take it off. but as i didn't fit it i have no idea how it works. how is it generally fitted?? plug and play or spliced into wiring. i'll check when i get home anyway, just a rough idea.

Edited by PWG123
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there just spliced bud pretty simple to remove heres an installation guide might give you a better idea how to remove it

fcd.jpg

Legend :D. yeah thats really helpful, well if i can keep getting advice like this, hopefully can make it to japfest 2014 in may :).

cheers

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you will need to turn your actuator down as well to below fuel cut bud,



although it will be slower its better to be safe than running it lean and ending up with a fucked engine believe me its an expensive mistake


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