AdamB Posted November 9, 2013 Share Posted November 9, 2013 (edited) Your essentialoy building a race engine which requires maximum oil flow 100% of the time, especially within the first few miles.Were they ACL bearing shells you used? I would say the ACL are much softer than OEM Toyota since they are required to only last 25k miles, whereas OEM last 120k + miles.I think theres too many variables to state exactly what happened, which probably all contributed in some way shape or form. Learn from your mistakes though. Edited November 9, 2013 by AdamB Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ryan_EP82 GT Posted November 9, 2013 Share Posted November 9, 2013 Your essentialoy building a race engine which requires maximum oil flow 100% of the time, especially within the first few miles.Were they ACL bearing shells you used? I would say the ACL are much softer than OEM Toyota since they are required to only last 25k miles, whereas OEM last 120k + miles.I think theres too many variables to state exactly what happened, which probably all contributed in some way shape or form. Learn from your mistakes though. I should've done proper reading up before i bought my shells as i never knew ACL's had such a short life span. Would you only expect as much as 25k give or take a few thou before needing to replace them?Adam is there a tutorial on fitting a new oil pump anywhere, after reading this i think i would prefer to fit a new one asap? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mech5107 Posted November 9, 2013 Share Posted November 9, 2013 Did you had an oil pressure gauge...? The stock pump has very high flow for the needs of the 4efte engine...that's why these engines have so much oil return to the sump, in comparison with other engines.So even if the stock pump is bit worn, the pressure, at least at higher rpm whould be at the normal numbers. But if the main bearing tolerances are not measured and corrected, then oil pressure will never be the right one... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AdamB Posted November 11, 2013 Share Posted November 11, 2013 I should've done proper reading up before i bought my shells as i never knew ACL's had such a short life span. Would you only expect as much as 25k give or take a few thou before needing to replace them?Adam is there a tutorial on fitting a new oil pump anywhere, after reading this i think i would prefer to fit a new one asap?ACL recommend the shells are changed every 30 thou KM to maintain a good condition crank, although I bet no one pays attention to that but for me I would certainly prefer pay 70 quid for some shells than risking losing a crank. It all depends on your power, oil clearances and oil your using as to how often they should be replaced, something like Spuddys motor the bearings are probably changed every few race meetings, probably talking 300 race miles.I don't think there is a guide but basically remove the crank pulley, remove the timing belt, and theres 10 x 10mm bolts I think they are that hold the pump in the block, just remove them and pull the pump out. I make it sound easier than it is, but its not too hard with the engine out the bay. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
triple j Posted November 11, 2013 Share Posted November 11, 2013 Your mad spending that money on forged bits then to use the same old oil pump, did u prime the pump. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
EPnick22 Posted November 11, 2013 Author Share Posted November 11, 2013 the block never came out the car thats why i didnt change it, yes yes yes its my fault i know, im stupid, etc etc. adam can you explain fully how I check the oil clearances please? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RobSR Posted November 11, 2013 Share Posted November 11, 2013 Use plastigauge. Have a google/look on youtube. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
EPnick22 Posted November 11, 2013 Author Share Posted November 11, 2013 (edited) ahhh i see just watching a video now Edited November 11, 2013 by EPnick22 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
EPnick22 Posted November 11, 2013 Author Share Posted November 11, 2013 okay, so say the oil clearances were too tight, how would I go about this? have the crank ground to whatever clearance it needs? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AdamB Posted November 12, 2013 Share Posted November 12, 2013 (edited) If the clearances are too tight the crank will need reground. If its too loose change the shells for a different size. Edited November 12, 2013 by AdamB Quote Link to post Share on other sites
EPnick22 Posted November 20, 2013 Author Share Posted November 20, 2013 update time....... had a real inspection of my rods today, and the notches in my block. the notches on the inlet side have a decent amount taken out, howeverrrrrr, the notches on the exhaust side havent got as much taken out. EACH rod has a fine line going across the top of the big end (where the rods would hit if there were no notches ). would the rods skimming the bores cause me to spin a shell? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
triple j Posted November 20, 2013 Share Posted November 20, 2013 Yeah man it could do and a hole lot more, i would start with a new crank and work off that. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
EPnick22 Posted November 22, 2013 Author Share Posted November 22, 2013 anyone? I need to know if this is the cause Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AdamB Posted November 23, 2013 Share Posted November 23, 2013 Have you got a pic of the rods mate? It probably could be a cause. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
EPnick22 Posted November 23, 2013 Author Share Posted November 23, 2013 nah mate my camera is at my mum's house what would you look for in the picture? the little line on the rod where it's skimmed the bore? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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