EPnick22 Posted February 3, 2014 Share Posted February 3, 2014 run my new engine around 40mins and had to drop the sump to sort a leak and saw a small amount of swarfy oil in the bottom and bit on the sump plug, took bigends off to check for peace of mind and the oil looked good, is this normal due to fresh bores? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
H_D Posted February 3, 2014 Share Posted February 3, 2014 this is normal dude dont worry.On a fresh engine i recommend using mineral oil for the 1st 1000 miles.1st oil change at 50 miles second oil change at 200 miles 3rd oil change at 500 miles 4th oil change at 700 miles 5th oil change at 1000 miles.After 1000 miles use the oil of your choice. Hope this helps. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TurboTobz Posted February 3, 2014 Share Posted February 3, 2014 this is normal dude dont worry.On a fresh engine i recommend using mineral oil for the 1st 1000 miles.1st oil change at 50 miles second oil change at 200 miles 3rd oil change at 500 miles 4th oil change at 700 miles 5th oil change at 1000 miles.After 1000 miles use the oil of your choice. Hope this helps. swear adamb said that word for word a while back on a similar thread lolYeah it's normal no need to worry bud Quote Link to post Share on other sites
H_D Posted February 3, 2014 Share Posted February 3, 2014 swear adamb said that word for word a while back on a similar thread lolYeah it's normal no need to worry budWell that is the normal procedure for running in a new engine anyone else who knows will tell you the same thing.I did this on both of my forged motors as its what my engine builder advised me to do.I would also check valve clearances after 1000 miles. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AdamB Posted February 3, 2014 Share Posted February 3, 2014 Personally I would drop the oil a bit earlier than 50 miles, around 20 miles is my preferred method, but everyone has their own way. Also depends on what your going to use the engine for, if its just a normal forged motor then I would probably stick to mineral oil till around the 1200-1300 mile mark then switch, if its a race engine it will be run in within 25 minutes. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
H_D Posted February 4, 2014 Share Posted February 4, 2014 Personally I would drop the oil a bit earlier than 50 miles, around 20 miles is my preferred method, but everyone has their own way. Also depends on what your going to use the engine for, if its just a normal forged motor then I would probably stick to mineral oil till around the 1200-1300 mile mark then switch, if its a race engine it will be run in within 25 minutes. U seem pretty clued up Adam. I have heard of people running their engines in on a dyno. What are your thoughts on this? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Zeldoz Posted February 4, 2014 Share Posted February 4, 2014 U seem pretty clued up Adam. I have heard of people running their engines in on a dyno. What are your thoughts on this? Nothing wrong with it. Just sits endlessly driving for hours clocking up the miles. Most places charge like £400-£500 for this! My friend just forged an EVO and it was ran in on the dyno for 600 miles, then road driven the remaining! Cost him alot but, saved time i imagine. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AdamB Posted February 4, 2014 Share Posted February 4, 2014 (edited) U seem pretty clued up Adam. I have heard of people running their engines in on a dyno. What are your thoughts on this? It's not something I would tend to entertain imo, I prefer to be out on the road in real world conditions rather than a simulated area, putting real load on the engine. Of course if you run the engine in on a dyno it will HAVE to be with a varying speed otherwise the bores get glazed and you end up having to start all over again with new rings and a new hone. Nothing wrong with it. Just sits endlessly driving for hours clocking up the miles. Most places charge like £400-£500 for this! My friend just forged an EVO and it was ran in on the dyno for 600 miles, then road driven the remaining! Cost him alot but, saved time i imagine. That's the worst situation possible. You don't want to be sat at a constant speed when running an engine in, it doesn't force the rings out against the bore and the bores glaze over. Best thing to do is to do 5 runs at 40% throttle, another 5 runs at 50% throttle, then take the load up to 80% throttle for 4 runs. After this time the rings should have seated well enough in the bore, but this does not mean you can go and cruise on the motorway at a constant speed of 60mph. Business parks, B roads are the best places to vary the load on the engine, and try do some hillclimbing as well. I forever see people worrying about running in their engines after a rebuild, yeah its costly but do you think that race engines sit on a stand for 8 hours racking up 1500 miles? The engine goes in the car and goes racing. Running in is ideally best done on a track where varying percentage of throttle is used over a wide range of gears and at varying altitudes. Edited February 4, 2014 by AdamB Quote Link to post Share on other sites
DevonGT Posted February 4, 2014 Share Posted February 4, 2014 Never run in any of my engines on a dyno and to be honest never will. It's easy enough to do properly as outlined by Adam. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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