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Glanza hesitating and 'holding back' on full boost!


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My set up is.

Speedvision Hybrid CT9
WEPR tubular manifold
Z-Sports 38mm external wastegate
Tial .8 bar spring
WEPR downpipe
2.5" stainless pro racer catback
JAM ECU
1.4mm steel headgasket
Apexi AVC-R @1 bar boost
ARC topmount intercooler
Cusco bigbore hotpipe
NGK Heat range 7 plugs
Magnecore 8.8mm leads
OEM king lead

My issue is when I'm on boost, take for exapmle in 4th gear at 4,500 rpm on full throttle the car boosts perfect (holds 1 bar steady) and the revs climb evenly but the car feels like it has no torque (felt more powerful last week at .6 bar)

If I leave off the throttle the car gives a chug as if it want's to speed up when on 10% throttle.

Same in all gears but most noticeable in 5th.

I had a problem last week and she threw on code 52 (knock sensor).. I changed that today and the car drove fine but noticed it hesitating again in high revs tonight, not half as bad but still noticable.

I'm thinking because the JAM ecu's main way to fuel the car via the Lambda it could be fucked, throwing too much fuel in and bogging it down?

I'm also thinking the ARC top mount could be getting too much heat soak and bogging down the car aswell?

I was also thinking it could be a weak fuel pump?

Plugs weren't done in over 6 months so could it be them too?

Any opinions welcome lads, thanks.

Edited by jackkelly
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Seem's like your ignition is locked at 10 degrees, this is like a safe mode so you don't fry your motor, but it can also be bad in regards to heat buildup if the car stays in this state for too long as the ignition timing is retarded. This has a tendency to make high egt's as the spark lead is sent late on the exhaust side.



As you are getting the knock sensor code from diagnostics, i would check continuity of the knock sensor wiring from ecu to sensor.


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I have the same problem with the holding back but unsure of why it happens :L i know my cars overfueling but apart from that i haven't noticed any other issues, the holding back started to happen when i plugged in the JAM ecu


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I run the same ecu and turbo and would recommend running about 0.92, if you run it at a bar i think your pushing the turbo a bit too much imo, it's fine to run but to reduce the holding back and to make your turbo last longer i would run it at 0.92 as i don't see much difference between 0.92 and a bar anyway tbh


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jack, if you can get your hands on a 1bar w/g spring.. stick it in and see if your still having issues.. disconnect the EBC.. ull know then if its the EBC or something else... we got the timing sorted.. id say the EBC is at fault or just needs to be set up right


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It is because the ecu need's to register activity from the knock sensor in order to safely advance the ignition timing. Without the feedback from the knock sensor, the programming within the ecu will lock the timing at 10 degrees, it is a failsafe so you don't fry your motor from detonation as a result of too much spark lead. If the ecu does not recieve this signal, how can it know how to safely advance the ignition... You will have a slow car with bunsen burner flames.


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