scottieboi94 Posted April 7, 2014 Share Posted April 7, 2014 I'm pretty sure my glanza is ovefueling doing 200 miles on a full tank, would getting a wideband lamba sensor help me out and are they easy to fit? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
richardc9052 Posted April 7, 2014 Share Posted April 7, 2014 getting a wideband would help you assess the situation. If you current narrowband sensor turns out to be faultysome of the widebands come with a 0-1v narrowband emulation then you can use that instead of the standard lambda. you would need to get the bung welded in so it can be fitted further down the exhaust. How is your driving? do you use boost a lot? are you running higher boost? RRFPR? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
scottieboi94 Posted April 7, 2014 Author Share Posted April 7, 2014 I'm using a SARD RRFPR running around 5 bar which i think is too high? and i am on boost quite a lot tbh, this week i have taken it easy and reckon i will get 240 miles out of it this time. I run around 0.95 boost on a ct9 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AlancEP82 Posted April 7, 2014 Share Posted April 7, 2014 5bar fuel pressure to .9 of a bar ct9 way to much fuel pressure Quote Link to post Share on other sites
scottieboi94 Posted April 7, 2014 Author Share Posted April 7, 2014 (edited) I know, is it safe to turn it down? Would it affect my performance? or make the engine run lean/rich? Edited April 7, 2014 by scottieboi94 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AlancEP82 Posted April 7, 2014 Share Posted April 7, 2014 buy rite you should have it adjusted on a rr to check the fueling Quote Link to post Share on other sites
daniel_g Posted April 7, 2014 Share Posted April 7, 2014 Turn it down to around 2.5 bar which is just above standard pressure. But getting a wideband kit is highly recommended, then you'll know exactly how your car is fueling rather than guessing. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
richardc9052 Posted April 7, 2014 Share Posted April 7, 2014 Put your boost back to standard.. put your standard fpr on and it will probably be faster than it is now.. Your killing your power and destroying your mpg figures by running such high fuel pressure. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
scottieboi94 Posted April 8, 2014 Author Share Posted April 8, 2014 Isn't it better to run the fpr i have now compared to a standard one, i will get a better delivery of fuel because i run a jam ecu and ive heard that the ecu doesn't control the fueling as well as a sard rrfpr? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mech5107 Posted April 8, 2014 Share Posted April 8, 2014 (edited) Leanish mixtures do the best power. It depends on chamber design. For the 4efte around 11.8 gives the best power. Newer VW TSI engines go for leaner than 13 afr.Stock ecu, ct9 at 0.9bar will go up to 10 AFR. So there is no need to increase fuel pressure at all.RR frps are for special cases or for bling. Sad but true. (I run my sard rrfrp at 2.2bar idle with vacuum on and still hitting 10.5 at wot after 5k rpm.) Edited April 8, 2014 by mech5107 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
richardc9052 Posted April 8, 2014 Share Posted April 8, 2014 the ecu doesnt control fueling as well as a rrfpr? The ecu controls the injections period/length to add or remove fuel. a rrfpr is a mechanical band aid for a problem that doesnt exist. For an N/A -T conversion i would suggest a rrfpr as a cheap fix if it was just a crap car you wanted to boost as it adds extra fuel in areas the ecu doesnt know how to operate (on boost) But for a turbo car that already adjust fueling according to boost pressure you do not need one within the ecu's limits. If you find you do need one, bigger turbo or wanting to fuel past boost cut then a piggyback/P&P is recommended. A rrfpr just doesnt work like people seem to think it does... It ends up adding fuel where the ecu has already added fuel and so acts as a multiplier (length x pressure) but then higher up where the ecu doesnt know how to fuel the air its recieving the rrfpr continues on the same direction depending on its rate. 1:1 - 1:7 and everything above, below and in between. So you either end up running very rich on lower boost and then when you get upwards of 10-14psi you run nice afrs or you run nice afr's down low and lean up top.. Its not exactly that simple but i think most people dont understand what they are fitting and just follow the crowd.. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
richardc9052 Posted April 8, 2014 Share Posted April 8, 2014 Leanish mixtures do the best power. It depends on chamber design. For the 4efte around 11.8 gives the best power. Newer VW TSI engines go for leaner than 13 afr. Stock ecu, ct9 at 0.9bar will go up to 10 AFR. So there is no need to increase fuel pressure at all. RR frps are for special cases or for bling. Sad but true. (I run my sard rrfrp at 2.2bar idle with vacuum on and still hitting 10.5 at wot after 5k rpm.) Thats because they are rising rate. if you put your standard fpr back on it would run better and probably make more power. The ecu is perfectly capable of fueling a ct9 up to fuel cut. As i will advise everyone, always get your fueling checked when you make such a change. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
scottieboi94 Posted April 8, 2014 Author Share Posted April 8, 2014 (edited) I can either buy a standard fpr and put it on or turn my rrfpr down and carry on using that? Edited April 8, 2014 by scottieboi94 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
richardc9052 Posted April 8, 2014 Share Posted April 8, 2014 (edited) Personal opinion, go standard.. I have a spare rail with standard fpr here if you want. £12 posted. Edited April 8, 2014 by richardc9052 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
scottieboi94 Posted April 8, 2014 Author Share Posted April 8, 2014 Wouldn't it be ok to turn my rrfpr down the 2.4bar on idle? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mech5107 Posted April 8, 2014 Share Posted April 8, 2014 Thats because they are rising rate. if you put your standard fpr back on it would run better and probably make more power. The ecu is perfectly capable of fueling a ct9 up to fuel cut.As i will advise everyone, always get your fueling checked when you make such a change.Both stock and sard give exactly the same result.I think that also the stock one is rising rate. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
scottieboi94 Posted April 8, 2014 Author Share Posted April 8, 2014 So if i turn mine down to 2.4bar on idle is will that be fine mate? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
richardc9052 Posted April 8, 2014 Share Posted April 8, 2014 Wouldn't it be ok to turn my rrfpr down the 2.4bar on idle?Yes it would be "ok" Quote Link to post Share on other sites
scottieboi94 Posted April 8, 2014 Author Share Posted April 8, 2014 is that the correct bar or does it need highering or lowering? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mech5107 Posted April 8, 2014 Share Posted April 8, 2014 2.4bar is stock. 3 bar without the vaccum line. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
scottieboi94 Posted April 9, 2014 Author Share Posted April 9, 2014 what does without the vacuum line mean? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AdamB Posted April 9, 2014 Share Posted April 9, 2014 A rising rate fpr regulates the fuel pressure based on the pressure it sees from the manifold.There's no difference whether you run the stock fpr at stock fuel pressure or run an aftermarket at 2.3 bar, both are going to be at the same pressure. If you set the fpr with the vac line off this is its base pressure under atmospheric conditions ie 1 bar. If you set it with the vac line on this base pressure may be altered because the manifold pressure may be in vacuum when you set it giving a lean conditions at WOT. Although some people have tried both and say its made no difference so just make of it what you will really. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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