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Severe Jolting on Rebuilt engine


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Well I finally pulled my finger out over the last few months and got my Forged engine running in my car.



Started first time, only a small water leak to contend with a clamp being slack but apart from that everything seemed fine.



There is a rattle coming from either the engine or ancillaries that will be dealt with once I'm home next week in prep for Mot.



However the thing i noticed that I did not like was, when I was taking it a run to see how she was, i would accelerate to the point of boost and change gear. I did this for a few miles then getting braver decided to bring her onto boost ever so gently. Now it doesn't do it everytime, I think i noticed it more if it was a more harsh acceleration rather than feathering it up the rev range. But as it comes onto boost slightly it takes a jolt, I can hear the dump valve going off more than once. I wondered if having my External wastegate not plumbed in had anything to do with this?



Just looking for some ideas and avenues to persue at the end of this week when I'm home.



Any help is greatly appreciated ladies and gents. No suggestion is a stupid one either :)



Cheers



John


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I have yet to do this, As it was built by a company I would like to think it was done correctly.. This may also explain the ticking noise I have that increases with revs etc.. The thought had crossed my mind but like I said i would hope it was correct after having it done by someone who is supposed to have alot of experience.



Thanks for your input buddy, Greatly appreciated



John


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Have you run your engine in with correct oil? I wouldn't be using boost if you've not properly run your engine in and changed oil from running in oil to full synthetic and had it setup.

It has only done maybe 6 miles mate. It wasn't on full boost but my opinion is it needs some sort of labour to bed the rings in correct? It was barely on boost.

Using semi synthetic oil just now but I spoke with a local mechanic and he suggested using mineral oil for the run in period so I will be changing it for mineral once I'm home

John

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I have yet to do this, As it was built by a company I would like to think it was done correctly.. This may also explain the ticking noise I have that increases with revs etc.. The thought had crossed my mind but like I said i would hope it was correct after having it done by someone who is supposed to have alot of experience.

Thanks for your input buddy, Greatly appreciated

John

I would be asking them for clarification on this. new engine should be run in for at least 500 mile.

Also have you checked for vac leaks. Do you have adjustable fpr? If so is it set correctly. I would check every thing you can mate but firstly find out if you engine has been run in. Good luck the joys of tuning cars lol ;)

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I would be asking them for clarification on this. new engine should be run in for at least 500 mile.

Also have you checked for vac leaks. Do you have adjustable fpr? If so is it set correctly. I would check every thing you can mate but firstly find out if you engine has been run in. Good luck the joys of tuning cars lol ;)

Its a brand new engine, I took it out, delivered it, picked it up and re installed it. SARD RRFPR set at 3 bar or so just now but it is still standard boost. No vac leaks unless you count the EXT W/G being open as I haven't plumbed it in yet.

Throttle position sensor needs re-colabing.

That's my guess. Happens to me too when you go on the throttle gently (sometimes). Mine is the TPS.

TPS hasn't been touched so I can have a look at that aswell. Going to have my timing checked also.

Appreciate the input guys, anymore for anymore?

John

Edited by Johnboy GT
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