FMuscle Posted January 8, 2015 Author Share Posted January 8, 2015 >http://youtu.be/dqURaG5oN9s Quote Link to post Share on other sites
FMuscle Posted January 8, 2015 Author Share Posted January 8, 2015 Well engine is running smoothly, I love it, BUT it's still loosing coolant, and I can hear a speed dependent scrapping from the right front. So I just dropped the car back at work and brought the beater back home. More to follow. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
NewbieLewby Posted January 8, 2015 Share Posted January 8, 2015 Nice work Sounds like a deisel on idle tho, probly just the camera Quote Link to post Share on other sites
FMuscle Posted January 9, 2015 Author Share Posted January 9, 2015 (edited) It's one of my driving lights, the rivets got loose on the housing... Can't hear a thing as soon as I touch it.Anyways, the car's back in the workshop, found the OTHER LEAKS on the cooling system and fixed them, tomorrow I take the front right wheel of and look at what's stuck in my brake making noise and destroying my brand new brakes..... And while I'm there, I'll remove the lower timing cover to check why there's oil on it. I hope it's just because I didn't clean my spill properly.Stay tuned. Edited January 9, 2015 by FMuscle Quote Link to post Share on other sites
FMuscle Posted January 10, 2015 Author Share Posted January 10, 2015 (edited) The 5E is back on the road. Good news is there's no more coolant leaking, bad news is I need to replace the NSF wheel bearing. I also need to keep an eye out for a potential sweat around the sump.I may have a bearing in the transmission as well, but the wheel bearing is so loud I can't tell for sure until I replace it.Funny how this bearing fucked while I had no engine in the car... I did a bit of driving, and I can tell the powerband is different, probably the FHE cams at work. Feels like a tiny turbo lag before it gets some guts. About the same as the 4E at low revs then kicks in mid to high if that makes any sense to you. (Don't have a tacho installed yet) I'll just leave this here for now...>http://youtu.be/cZ6zMiN5xi8 Edited January 10, 2015 by FMuscle Quote Link to post Share on other sites
FMuscle Posted January 13, 2015 Author Share Posted January 13, 2015 Now that this is done, I can make this fit. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
5e colin Posted January 14, 2015 Share Posted January 14, 2015 im watching :) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
FMuscle Posted January 14, 2015 Author Share Posted January 14, 2015 (edited) I didn't do much today, I had to leave after work to pick up my wheel bearing before the store closed... But this morning I did the templates for the manifolds flanges. I will add that when I got back home, last street corner, the car started to rev way too high when not in gear... Popped the bonnet open and checked the cable. That Corolla inlet bracket is further away than the stock inlet's, so the nuts are at the very end of the thread for a proper throttle response. But the rubber seal came loose because it wasn't hooked on far enough and got itself stuck in the throttle linkage groove, holding the revs at about 2-2.5K rpm... Edited January 14, 2015 by FMuscle Quote Link to post Share on other sites
5e colin Posted January 14, 2015 Share Posted January 14, 2015 just seeing the charger lying on the block i think it will be very close to the bottom cros bar !!! 1s the outlet is bolted to the charger get the measuring tape out Quote Link to post Share on other sites
FMuscle Posted January 14, 2015 Author Share Posted January 14, 2015 Sure will, many times. It even started already. I plan on 3 inches tops between the block and charger at the manifold level. Pipe will be 2.5" kissing the S/C going towards the gear box, then 90° straight up to clear the mounting tabs while going around. That avoids the oil filter, leaves enough room for exhaust primaries 1&2. Once above the S/C body, a 45° toward the corner of the car to get to the front mount.The inlet is a lot simpler. grille mounted pod, 3" pipe strait down to the blower. Pipe will be so short, my recirculating blow-off should be as loud as a venting one... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
FMuscle Posted January 14, 2015 Author Share Posted January 14, 2015 You just made me go take some more mesurements... LOL Can't be too careful, I have 246mm between the block and the vertical wall of the crossmember.I know my current pulley is 146mm and is slightly wider thant the supercharger. Let's say 145mm plus the approximate 75mm I need for the outlet, leaves me 25mm before I need serious cuts. I can probably make my outlet a little bit thiner between the blower and the block, I guess free flow isn't as much important right out on the pressure side, I can sacrifice a ¼ inch and make it oval instead of round... I could bring it down to 60mm from my first 76mm estimate. 40mm (yay!...)The inlet will come from above, so I can shape it like this √ to clear a bit more space towards the bottom.Here's a few more mesurements, in-/outlets holes on the blower are 2X4½ (52X115mm)I still have some things to check, but no matter the size (to a certain extent) the supercharger pushes 1420cc of air per revolution, even if I don't have the full pipe size right out, it will push through to the full size section not 200mm away... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
5e colin Posted January 14, 2015 Share Posted January 14, 2015 i do that sometimes :) confused.com ha ha are you going to fit a bypass valve or just strait blow ??? im thinking of blowing strait in the 4efte topmount as easy instalation what do you think ??? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
5e colin Posted January 14, 2015 Share Posted January 14, 2015 got let down today for the sc12 he was a no show :( must find another 1 now Quote Link to post Share on other sites
FMuscle Posted January 14, 2015 Author Share Posted January 14, 2015 are you going to fit a bypass valve or just strait blow ??? im thinking of blowing strait in the 4efte topmount as easy instalation what do you think ??? I need a bypass/bov for idle. It's the same as a turbo, one the throttle shuts you want to let the pressure go... I thought about putting it between the S/C manifolds, litterally sitting on the S/C. short, neat... Unless it'd be more efficient to have it after the front mount? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
5e colin Posted January 14, 2015 Share Posted January 14, 2015 i see so my idea is wrong i need to plant a vent in there then for idle thanks mate dont really know mate im more into tuby setups never really played with chargers before im learning from you ha ha Quote Link to post Share on other sites
FMuscle Posted January 14, 2015 Author Share Posted January 14, 2015 Good luck with that, it's my first time as well! But since my first car in 2005 was(is) an '81 Camaro 350ci 4 barrels, I've always been more S/C than T/C...You could always put the charger after the throttle. Changes the piping/cable a bit, but no bov required. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
FMuscle Posted January 15, 2015 Author Share Posted January 15, 2015 Mesurements post!!...Engine block, where it meets the sump to lower crossmember: 246mmS/C body width mani to mani without the studs: 141mmCurrently installed S/C pulley diameter: 146mmDesired inlet pipe diameter: 76mmDesired outlet pipe diameter: 63mmTotal projected width of the assembly: 280mm, or -34mm -----------------------------------------------Height of inlet and outlet ports: 52mmWidth of inlet and outlet ports: 115mmArea of inlet and outlet ports: 5950mm2Area of desired inlet pipe: 4536mm2Area of desired outlet pipe: 3117mm2 -----------------------------------------------Sump's lip width: 22mmCrossmember vertical lip: 17mmCrossmember horizontal lip: 17mmHeight difference top crossmeber to sump mating surface: 30mm Boring post, I know, but informative. If you care! more fun coming later. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
FMuscle Posted January 15, 2015 Author Share Posted January 15, 2015 Using the aforementioned mesurements, I made a side cut diagram to scale. Pardon my paint skills, I know they're just too good So I guess the outlet won't be crossing over on top, but will dive underneath the supercharger...That inlet pipe is looking shorter everytime I mesure something... It would be somewhere between 12 and 18 inches long... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
5e colin Posted January 15, 2015 Share Posted January 15, 2015 good info mate but your paint skills suck as hard as mine ha ha your info comes in handy now as i just collected the sc12 he had a hickup yesterday we will be doing it the same timesnow wich pipe is the inlet and the outlet ????? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
FMuscle Posted January 15, 2015 Author Share Posted January 15, 2015 If you use it on an engine turning clockwise, like our 4E/5E engines, the outlet will be on your left side when you face the pulley. You can use a non-impact drill on the pulley nut to spin it and feel the air rushing out. From the dipstick, I guess yours was mounted on the rear side of the engine, do you know which engine it was? I have a table I made to guestimate SC14 boost ratios with different pulley sizes on my 5E, I could probably adapt it for your application if you want... and if you want pulleys, look for A/C pulleys, I have the 5E's on mine, (146mm/10.5Psi) and I have a spare pulley from the 4E's compressor. Didn't mesure it yet, but it's smaller. I'm guessing it'd be just shy of a bar. By the way, the SC12 looks so small! it's the same dimensions from what I read except the lenght... If you mount it like me you may not need a custom exhaust made up. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
5e colin Posted January 15, 2015 Share Posted January 15, 2015 comes from 4agze would be handy if i dont need custom exhaust i think i still have a airco pump will have a look at it and measure :) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
FMuscle Posted January 15, 2015 Author Share Posted January 15, 2015 What are you putting it on? 5E? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
FMuscle Posted January 16, 2015 Author Share Posted January 16, 2015 Brought the charger home for the weekend. I just couldn't leave it at work... with a few tools and this, I might get busy, or not. Still not sure what the weekend plan is. Also made a list of parts to order, mainly gaskets and the proper mounting bolts/nuts.... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
5e colin Posted January 16, 2015 Share Posted January 16, 2015 (edited) nice diagram thats going to help me to to your question its a gi block with gi rods and 4efte pistons i cant fit mine upfront like yours with my turbo kit and 4efte oil housing so going to swap positions with the alt. i already tested i can use the existing alt bracket with some washers think it will be hardr to get the alt fitted upfront coupple of pics above ( engine flat charger ontop ) i see you have a pulley where the power steering pump supposed to go is it adjustable and where did it come of ??? Edited January 16, 2015 by 5e colin Quote Link to post Share on other sites
FMuscle Posted January 16, 2015 Author Share Posted January 16, 2015 (edited) 4E-FTE??? You're twincharging? I think I saw a picture of a rear mount SC, I think SC was low, Alt was further back and higher... Not sure though, it's been a while. What car was the SC12 in? MR2? if so, here's yours (in/out gasket not on pic, but part# are 17857-16010 and 17858-16010): On another note, I'm trying to remove the aerial from the Starlet, I can't pull it out directly, and can't find where the cable enters the cab to disconnect it. I can pull it about 2-3 inches tops, then it blocks... And also wondering how to remove the filler neck pipe from the body. Is it bolted from underneath? Edited January 16, 2015 by FMuscle Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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