5e colin Posted January 16, 2015 Share Posted January 16, 2015 ya cheap build 4efte kinda engine but strong you think it would be a problem ??? i think this is the pic you saw its the only 1 i can find i know its not my own but just going to copy this setup seems easy looks like no custom brackets ( welding ) is needed Quote Link to post Share on other sites
FMuscle Posted January 16, 2015 Author Share Posted January 16, 2015 yeah it's the one. You'd still need some fabrication on this. flipping the alternator bracket might do, but I doubt it would be that easy... and that idler, gettint the pulleys to line up properly is already a challenge in itself, on this setup it's 3 pulley in non-OEM locations... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
5e colin Posted January 16, 2015 Share Posted January 16, 2015 i am going to keep the top adjuster bar from the original alt position and fab that so i dont need pully adjuster on that sidethe charger will be automatically aligned with the original alt bracket at the bottom its just from left to right that i need to space it correct i will wait till im pist to start on the new alt position bracket ha ha stress levels wont be that high then Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Johnny-C Posted January 17, 2015 Share Posted January 17, 2015 Pretty cool build!Where in WA are you?Im living in Perth myself. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
FMuscle Posted January 17, 2015 Author Share Posted January 17, 2015 Nice! I was wondering if I had anyone around. I'm in Rockingham. Got an EP over here? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
FMuscle Posted January 18, 2015 Author Share Posted January 18, 2015 (edited) Sorry I missed that question... couple of pics above ( engine flat charger ontop ) i see you have a pulley where the power steering pump supposed to go is it adjustable and where did it come of ??? It's the OEM tensioner for air con belt on non-power steering models. Do you need one? I have 2... To what I was here for, I didn't touch the SC14 this weekend, I went to the motorplex Saturday and worked on the body today before my weekly nap (I must be getting old taking naps every week...). I kept working on the passenger lock delete and the boot, I can still see where the "LIFE" sticker was, even after a couple of sanding/priming sessions... I'll probably need to bog it up, I found a low spot on the upper left of the plate surround and the lock hole also needs filling. Been looking at exhaust as well... Found a flex pipe and a cat, maybe a back box, but I need to work out how much space I have available Down Under there (Pun intended ) To the pics! Don't mind the bent plate, I should have my custom ¾ sized one this week to fit the surround. Edited January 18, 2015 by FMuscle Quote Link to post Share on other sites
FMuscle Posted January 20, 2015 Author Share Posted January 20, 2015 I dropped my part numbers list at Toyota at lunch time today, will pick the quote up tomorrow, as they were closed when I left work. Got some good stuff on there I'm thinking about noise. I left (well, was forced to) my car at work, replacing the noisy wheel bearing. That noise gone, I'll be thinking of a new one.Supercharger Whine.Loud or quiet?And how to achieve chosen result?I'm not sound engineer, but I have a brain and use it. I think the outlet pipe from the 2TZ-FZE is designed for quiet, it's in a minivan after all... It has a muffler, maybe 3½ inches diameter, and pipes go in on both sides but there is a gap inside to let the noise bounce around and "flaten" it, if I may say.I looked at the outlet of a 1G-GZE and it's a straight 2½ pipe. I won't have a muffler on mine, that's for sure. And what I can play with is the inlet, i.e. between the pod filter and the supercharger. The 1G's inlet looks interesting, much smoother than the 2TZ and could have a different sized pipe fitted easily. Now the smaller the better after the blower, the less space, the quicker the boost. I'm going S/C => 2½" => IC => 2" => TB shortest route possible. Before the blower though, I have options. I was planning on putting the pod behind the top grille, a 90° bend and 3" pipe to the S/C inlet by the lower crossmember. Short as can be, big straight pipe, I'm assuming loads of echo, whine to be heard that way. I think, correct me if I'm wrong, that a smaller pipe would reduce the noise level, bigger increase it. Heat shield/air box and relocation to a less open area would also reduce the noise.Loud or quiet? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
FMuscle Posted January 21, 2015 Author Share Posted January 21, 2015 Not much of an update, Wheel bearing was replaced, and got my custom ¾ sized plates to fit the glanza surround.If you're wondering, ostie is a mild french canadian swear... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
GlanzaJim Posted January 21, 2015 Share Posted January 21, 2015 Much better. Why havent you got a big can hanging out the rear? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
FMuscle Posted January 21, 2015 Author Share Posted January 21, 2015 Because I need a new exhaust made from cratch from head to tip when the S/C gets in, because the S/C interferes with what is already on the market.Because I do not want a cannon, huge tip or anything over 2" sticking out the bumper... I'm working on something Quote Link to post Share on other sites
5e colin Posted January 21, 2015 Share Posted January 21, 2015 ^^^^ they take up a lot of room ha ha i cant even fit the stock ct9 turbo with the sc12 !!!! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
GlanzaJim Posted January 21, 2015 Share Posted January 21, 2015 Interesting. Ill be keeping an eye on this!! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
FMuscle Posted January 24, 2015 Author Share Posted January 24, 2015 My weekend progress, part one:Went out to a metal recycling yard, searched the bins, found a bracket on an old massive ford I-6 engine and a steel flat about a metre long 30mm x 5mm. Scored them for the amount of zero, nada, niet.Then headed to work, did a minor tweaking of the S/C manifolds, fitted them and positioned the S/C on the engine. Took some mesurements, checked clearances... Tested the ford bracket... and since it won't fit, I started making my own. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
5e colin Posted January 24, 2015 Share Posted January 24, 2015 ha ha the old spirit level trick just a tip your better of putting the spirit level to the flat face it will be more accurate Quote Link to post Share on other sites
FMuscle Posted January 24, 2015 Author Share Posted January 24, 2015 The pulley was already lined up and straight. It was to check the belt route to clear the piping going through it. Yes, pipe will go between the pulleys and turn to follow the frame to the FMIC. Not enough room on the other side, and under would be too low for ground clearance. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
FMuscle Posted January 25, 2015 Author Share Posted January 25, 2015 Page 3, why not?Here's today's lack of concentration, or the acts of a distracted mind. I wanted to check the headlamps polarity for my future upgrade. This happened:I ran out of electrical tape, cable ties are holding it for now. Not a bad thing, I'll have to fiddle around the wiring a bit more in the near future. I now have a ¾ full grocery bag of wires and positive switched headlamps... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
GlanzaJim Posted January 25, 2015 Share Posted January 25, 2015 That takes some guts lol. Whats that engine out off again? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
FMuscle Posted January 26, 2015 Author Share Posted January 26, 2015 92 Aus spec Paseo. FTE pistons, FHE cams, rolla inlet.I'd love to do a major clean up of the dash loom, much more needed than the bay was. Especially behind my sat nav, it's a nightmare in there, but I'm too lazy to do it. Until another bubble pops, that is. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
FMuscle Posted January 30, 2015 Author Share Posted January 30, 2015 Well, my car is still at work while I'm at home. On a Friday night... I brought it in after work to check the tyre pressures, found my RHF matte wheel to be... Shiny??? I popped the bonnet and saw oil e-v-e-r-y-w-h-e-r-e. Timing side, top of the cover is dry, but going down on the side of it it gets wetter and wetter. Oil on the engine mount, oil down the block, oil on the frame... New, Genuine bung, cam seal and crank seal to be ordered Monday morning ASAP.I didn't need to reopen the timing case now, especially with my crushed finger damn it!... On the other hand, I'm back in the beater, who's been staying at work since I did the swap, I can strip it down for the parts I want to swap over, interior panels are much cleaner in that one. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
GlanzaJim Posted January 30, 2015 Share Posted January 30, 2015 Not good man, what you plannin on the extirior of the car? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
FMuscle Posted January 30, 2015 Author Share Posted January 30, 2015 Nope not good. Glad I picked it before the oil light turned on tho.Exterior... Lots of smoothing, passenger & boot locks gone, aerial off, side repeaters & moldings to go, Carat lights chrome ring off... Waiting for a few more parts for a major headlight upgrade, working on a fog equipped front bumper, plans for a rear bumper as well, then paint. Kia's "Moonlight Blue" (thank you Gran Turismo for the preview ) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
FMuscle Posted February 2, 2015 Author Share Posted February 2, 2015 Removed the top cover, even if it's clear I could not see through it with the oil film on both sides of it... Started the engine. I couldn't see the source of the leak, but a mist was coming out from the lower cover... I won't put it on the hoist until my seal order arrives, so won't know for sure wich one busted. I'm putting my money on the front main,I ordered it all anyway, bung, cam, front and rear mains, oil pump seal and o-ring + rocker cover gasket. I had an occasional drop on both ends of the engine before, nothing worrying and I planned to swap sumps for the 5E's when I was to fit the blower and exhaust on anyway, so it would be resealed then. I'm getting the rear main just in case it's not the sump. Well there goes $20/L oil... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
5e colin Posted February 2, 2015 Share Posted February 2, 2015 thats a bummer mate hope you get it fixed soon back to the charger subject wich bypass valve are you using ?? on boost or on vacuum ?? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
FMuscle Posted February 2, 2015 Author Share Posted February 2, 2015 I'll be using a bog standard BOV. My pulley is set for 10.5 psi, I set the bov to 12. Not sure if it worth recirculating though.And I still have the N/A-S/C mode switch in the back of my head, Kind of like the Interceptor in Mad Max. If/when I do it I'll fit an electric exhaust bypass in the piping Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Chris Green Posted February 3, 2015 Share Posted February 3, 2015 Been having a good read through this bud. Very interested in what your doing, nice to see something different. Hope you get the oil leak sorted soon! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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