Maxep Posted June 27, 2015 Share Posted June 27, 2015 Hey guys, I recently bought a Sard Analyse P&P ecu and according to my AEM wideband I'm fueling a 10 on full boost which is too rich, also might I mention that idling is 14.8-15. For engine mods I have the following, Aeromotive rrfpr, decat, FMIC, JAM actuator, 2.5inch exhaust, pretty much all the basics. I'm also boosting 1 bar. I have set the rrfpr to 2.4 bar, but anything I do, the ecu keeps fueling a perfect 10. I have also tried resetting the ecu but nothing happens. Any tips I can do here guys? Anything is appreciated Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Gainzy Posted June 27, 2015 Share Posted June 27, 2015 Try putting you stock fpr back on see what it reads then. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Gainzy Posted June 27, 2015 Share Posted June 27, 2015 They like rich fuel as in 99 ron and grade spark plugs 7/8 they are prone to run rich cough out a bit black smoke out the back haha Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Maxep Posted June 27, 2015 Author Share Posted June 27, 2015 Dang that would be a bummer to put back the old fpr back on after wasting money on an adjustable one . Yeah I thought about the fuel as here we only have something like 90-95. I also have grade 8 plugs. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Gainzy Posted June 27, 2015 Share Posted June 27, 2015 Just from what I read over the pages they run better off stock I don't trust fpr anyways haha Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Maxep Posted June 29, 2015 Author Share Posted June 29, 2015 (edited) I also seems to be having another problem now . The car was fine for about 2 weeks just over fueling a bit, I had this happen before I reset the ecu and it started happening again yesterday, where basically when I'm in 3rd ,4th and 5th and try to floor it the car boosts to 1 bar but it has no power and it kind off gets stuck at 4k-5k rpm. I doubt it's a boost leak or anything as it boosted fine for weeks. Any ideas on this, could it be also due to over fueling ? Edited June 29, 2015 by Maxep Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Gainzy Posted June 29, 2015 Share Posted June 29, 2015 What fuel pump you running? I'm sure for 1 bar they set those fpr to 3.1, I would try the stock one again you can't go wrong it does sound like a fueling issue to me, is it skipping a beat or anything Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Maxep Posted June 29, 2015 Author Share Posted June 29, 2015 I have an AEM uprated fuel pump. I had the FPR set to 3.1 bar for two weeks due to my old setup with an FCD only and when I installed the ecu it did what I described before. So I went out and bought an afr gauge and lowered it to 2.4bar as everyone recommends to set it at standard pressure. It basically feels like it has no boost whatsoever, but if you look at the gauge you see a steady 1bar -.-. I will try to go back to the standard FPR this week. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Gainzy Posted June 29, 2015 Share Posted June 29, 2015 Hmm does it hold 1 bar ok? it does sound like a boost leak to, check all your actuator hose's if your setting it to stock fpr might aswell use the oem one, the tinyest of airleaks will make that differnce to boost like blowing up a balloon is all the green boost lights on the dash working ok? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ramses Posted June 29, 2015 Share Posted June 29, 2015 Hey guys, I recently bought a Sard Analyse P&P ecu and according to my AEM wideband I'm fueling a 10 on full boost which is too rich, also might I mention that idling is 14.8-15. For engine mods I have the following, Aeromotive rrfpr, decat, FMIC, JAM actuator, 2.5inch exhaust, pretty much all the basics. I'm also boosting 1 bar. I have set the rrfpr to 2.4 bar, but anything I do, the ecu keeps fueling a perfect 10. I have also tried resetting the ecu but nothing happens. Any tips I can do here guys? Anything is appreciated Hi as all p&p ecu , they tend to go richer to 10 afr or 10.5 afr ...in fact they can drive the injectors with more % than stock ecu Doing 10 is not saying that you are not making power ,if you want to get something near 11 or 11.5 you have to up the boost until you will read your desire target boost, and you will reach the limit of correction too Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Maxep Posted June 29, 2015 Author Share Posted June 29, 2015 Hmm does it hold 1 bar ok? it does sound like a boost leak to, check all your actuator hose's if your setting it to stock fpr might aswell use the oem one, the tinyest of airleaks will make that differnce to boost like blowing up a balloon is all the green boost lights on the dash working ok? Yeah the green lights are working fine and it's also holding boost fine. This started when I installed the ecu so it probably has something to do with it. I will be checking everything as I'm determined to make it work . Hi as all p&p ecu , they tend to go richer to 10 afr or 10.5 afr ...in fact they can drive the injectors with more % than stock ecu Doing 10 is not saying that you are not making power ,if you want to get something near 11 or 11.5 you have to up the boost until you will read your desire target boost, and you will reach the limit of correction too Yeah so I've heard, I guess I got a bit unlucky with the map that's on it. It will probably fuel a td04 fine though Thx for the help guys Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AdamB Posted June 29, 2015 Share Posted June 29, 2015 I also have grade 8 plugs. There's one problem, grade 8 is way way too cold for those mods, you don't need grade 8's till pushing nigh on 500bhp! Change to 7's, or even 6's will do but might go through them a bit quicker. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Maxep Posted June 29, 2015 Author Share Posted June 29, 2015 There's one problem, grade 8 is way way too cold for those mods, you don't need grade 8's till pushing nigh on 500bhp! Change to 7's, or even 6's will do but might go through them a bit quicker. I actually saw somewhere were JAM in this case suggests to use grade 7 or 8 plugs for their ecu, but yeah thanks for the tip. I will give them a try also Any chance someone got the code for the NGK grade 7 plugs? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AdamB Posted June 29, 2015 Share Posted June 29, 2015 BKR7EIX Unless running Nitrous or exotic fuel there's really no need for 8's. I'm sure many of the older members will remember Spuddy's beast, that was using 8's, I think he just switched over to 9's actually when running 600bhp, near enough 3 bar of boost + nitrous + Methanol fuel. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mi16chris Posted June 29, 2015 Share Posted June 29, 2015 (edited) That the problem with theses ecus there all mapped for different things and u have no idea what , I would never use one due to this 99% of the stuff said about them is made up As for plugs bcr8es cheap as chips and they do the job well Edited June 29, 2015 by mi16chris Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Gainzy Posted June 30, 2015 Share Posted June 30, 2015 See I don't think they are mapped to certain things it's still a question that hasn't been answered, they are made for the ct9 but everyone just wants more and more from them. They just happen to work well on different set ups. I reckon they are bought over counter with all the same pre settings everyone gets the same, it's the health of the engine and fuel that makes the difference. There only made bad because some people don't understand how to use them, I have used a SARD ecu before I could feel the difference I never had any problems with it my emanage was the best decision so far, I would switch to grade 7 sparkies let us know how you get on. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
GP82 Posted July 1, 2015 Share Posted July 1, 2015 (edited) Do a diagnostics check and report back! Sound's like your ignition timing is locked at base timing (spark advance) for safe guarding the engine. Edited July 1, 2015 by GP82 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
gorganl2000 Posted July 1, 2015 Share Posted July 1, 2015 just get some cheap ngk bkr8e copper plugs....very cheap and work greatremember to gap them accordingly to your set up,,, you can save that money you would spend for the more expensive platinum and iridium Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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