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About roachburger

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  • Birthday 04/30/1990

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  1. roachburger

    removing ABS

    correct me if im wrong but that big block thing on the bulkhead is the brake proportioning valve, looking at things you need to keep it. it controls brake bias front to rear, stopping the rear wheels from locking up under heavy braking when all the weight is thrown forward. meaning if you bypass that you will have a brake imbalance front to rear.and fail mot. i was looking on the australian starlet forum and came across this.. * On the EP82 GT Turbo there was a part change in January 1992. Up until then the 47150-10080 proportioning valve was unique to the EARLY version, non-ABS models. * 1992 onwards the non-ABS models used the same valve as their corolla counterparts; AE92 GT, GT-APEX and GTZ. * The ABS-equipped EP82 GT Turbos used the same unit fitted to the EXY10 Sera. Later the part was superseeded by Toyota with 47150-44020 (fitted to Ipsum, Nadia, Gaia and the ZZV50 Vista). * EP91 Glanza V: Non-ABS version used the same unit found on early Avalons (MCX10) and AE101, AE111 corolla variants; ABS version shared with several Celica, Corona and ABS-equipped Corollas. (credit .. some aussie bloke on ausstarlet) From what i can work out, (mainly because my gt is a mk1 91 and it has a 4 port ) the pre 1992 models are the 4 port prop valves that you just pipe to a tee and then into the rear of the master. everything else is 5 port . it would need to be replaced with either a 4 port ( if you can find one ) or a prop valve of some sort mechanical,or manual.
  2. I'm having this issue currently.. Fensport (blitz eu dealers) don't know Nengun and rhd don't know, but are willing to check measurements with orc themselves. Orc are very hard to deal with and don't appear to have much information or Intrest. I'm informed by a couple of people that it is an orc 309d clutch re-branded with a blitz logo.There was one person on this forum who changed the blitz internals for orc internals and said it was spot on but it only takes one person to say it won't work to fill my mind with doubt lol I'll let you know and maybe make a thread regarding this on the weekend as I am re-building my blitz with orc internals when they arrive.
  3. connor brown has done it on his ep85 .. its a 4WD box but i think hes just dropped the front shafts and welded the diff. im not really sure he likes to keep it a secret. its not worth the effort to do a full longitudinal engine conversion the only engine short enough to fit without moving the entire firewall back a foot would be a scoob flat 4 but even then there would have to be a transmission tunnel made.
  4. correct me if im wrong but arn't starlets on 14x6 et35 as standard ? with an et of 40 and an extra inch width i suspect it might lead you into troubles with the back of the rim rubbing the shock/coilover on the front and inner arch on the rear mine are et35 15 x 8.5 and i can just fit a finger between the coilover and the back of the rim.
  5. Haha I don't underestimate it, I've simply more faith in expensive lasers than my own terrible eyesight, a suspectly unlevel driveway and a plumbline. Yeahh, Theres more attachments than a porn stars dildo. We need really accurate stuff for the kit cars.
  6. The laser alignment at my work does... it's some expensive bessingbarth digital stuff but..... it knows Time attack tyres don't exactly last long or stay on the rims half as long as a road tyre nor are they a tyre compound that many if anyone would have on a road car ..
  7. morgey said it ^^ the manufacturer/thickness makes no difference it just ties the rear beam central to the body, Although to an extent, it will effect handling. If you weren't going to already I'd say have it laser aligned front and back. Strings good for camber boys (why give a fuck about tyres when your fake wheels look that cool bro ) if the panhards not adjusted right the inner edge of the n/s/r tyre will get eaten, you'll notice the car will "crab" down the road and ultimately handle like shit.
  8. Sounds like a good idea, but as Morgey said, shitloads of machining would be needed. custom syncros, selector forks, wider/chryo treated gears, layshafts, some form of dogbone bearing around 3rd to tie the layshafts together annddd do you think there would be any effects on the diff/final drive ? Fair enough 300 is good enough power from a shoebox but then again 69% of British adults are obese, enough is never enough in this world :-)
  9. Isn't the n/s (left) the short drive shaft side ? Torquesteer If it was tracking it wouldn't drive straight at all and would pull randomly
  10. was it yourself matt who was telling me about the layshafts flexing apart causing the gears to un-mesh and strip ?? someone was .. either way, when I opened up my GT box the outer casing had marks like this had been happening. if this is the case the gear sets aren't the issue. From what i know anything over 300hp your gearbox is on borrowed time. corolla 6 speeds are chocolate and rare as hens balls mr2/celica boxes are bigger than the engine themselves, and nothing else small enough can deal with the power. as said above, cooling high-quality oil will do wonders but with no promises or guarantees. you could spend a hell of a lot of money on something custom and hope that it will survive, but its probably betterer to just keep changing the box out. have 2 box's and just once you strip one swop it for the other and replace the gearset ready for when you destroy it again next week
  11. check out rob macs glanza...
  12. will it be any benefit over standard ? 4 link would still retain the fixed rear axle wouldn't it ?
  13. Yaris' use round rear bushes on there lower arms, and I've yet to see a small Toyota without that hole in the lower arm for the a.r.b droplink. Something tells me that's not even a Toyota arm.
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