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OttersPocket

Loud knocking sound after head repair

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So, just to level with any potential help, I am utterly clueless and ramble because of that xD

  I purchased a glanza v at christmas, very quickly after I had issues, that turned out to be a crack around the stud where the ex manifold bolts to the head.

   So I gave it to a garage, for removal, and they sent it off for welding etc. 

My car returned, not working properly (fine untill you hit boost) no lights on dash for boost either 

The work receipt had a note on it... 

' running rich ( lamba, map???????)' 

Anyway, under my own totally untrained eye, I spotted a vac line running out of the inlet mani with a bolt pushed into the end, which should have run into the little box on the left side of the firewall, is it a maf sensor? I'm not sure, anyway this lil box had a plastic nib on the bottom that you would usually attach the vac line to.

it had been snapped off during its time there, and on my return to say, here gents why is this broken, and could this be why my car isn't running correctly. 

    The lad who'd actually done the work denied having any contact at all with this lines and tried to tell me that is as it arrived, now not only did it sort of boost before it arrived but the lights worked etc, I'm a thick fuck but i know that there wasn't a vac line dangling with a bolt in the end of it when I purchased the car.

 I didn't really get anything out of the garage other than starting to loose my temper, and so i bodged the vac line to the bottom of the little box. ((the one on the left of the fire wall)) 

My car began to idle at around 2k, but she ran sweet as a nut otherwise, so being the silly boy that I am, and having waited 6months to get her on the road, I have been driving her around for the last month

And yesterday she started making an allllll mighty clattering sound on idle, sounds like she's eating herself. The rattle continues but after 3k disappears, however the noise by the time I had crawled her home was much worse and what originally sounded like a little rattle, is now a clatter. 

I think I can assume that the high idle is down to how the lad who blocked the vac line set it, because of missing the connection and wanting to still get it out the door. 

My question is, have I killed my baby, by being impatience and utterly stupid by letting her idle high for the last four weeks 

(no long runs, just work and back, few cheeky late night tinder match visits) 

Or is it possible something has come a little loose from the work done on the head (the reason I mentioned the mechanics attitude towards the broken maf sensor and blocked vac line) 

Im in the midlands. Any input massively appreciated, I paid a fortune to have the work to the head done, and i want to know if it's me that's killed her. 

She's entirely standard.

I'm coming up to 7grand on her now all in all and I've probably put about 250miles down ://

Thanks for reading if you made it to the end. 

If anyone needs to hear it before any input shout up and I'll brave running her breifly to get something up for clarity. 

 

 

 

 

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sounds like they snapped your map sensor defo something  you need to be working. Did it now throw  up an engine management light. if so maybe worth doing a blink test to acquire the codes.  CLICK ME

 

The rattle / clatter you explaining sounds alot like bottom end failure to me not good bud don't give up maybe one of our members your end could give you a hand diagnosing your issues.

cheers nick 

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These cars do not run a Mass Air Flow sensor, instead they rely on a Manifold Air Pressure sensor.

 

These engines are fairly mechanical and you're unlikely to start getting lights on the dash, sounds like me like you took the car to a bunch of right cowboys, it's really not that big of a job to work on these engines.

 

I definitely would not be driving it until you sort the rattling out.

 

What they may not know is that, whilst these cars are twin cam, they are not a true twin cam setup, the cams under the rocker are spring loaded and the service bolt must be put in place before removing. Failure to do so will cause the cams to unspring when removed, resulting in a lot of rattling on running.

 

Your high idle sounds to me like a separate issue and is probably due to a vacuum leak somewhere. Either way it will not run right if the MAP isn't connected, since the car won't know how to fuel itself.

 

It's not uncommon to have bolts placed into unused vacuum lines off the manifold. I've removed a fair bit from my car and as a result have just placed bolts into stuff for the time being, not saying that's the legit way to do it, just a temporary measure.

 

Fixing your car should be easy enough if you're willing to do it yourself, but a garage should have no problems sort it out for you.


 

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The comment about the high idle was because I had wondered if he had made it idle differently when it wasn't running right without the Map sensor. 

If I now unplug the map sensor it wavers around 1k and at that point in the rev range the lil beasty isn't sounding asif she's chewing herself.

The line definitely always ran to the map, but at some point would have been T'd off for a boost gauge perhaps? 

I basically took it to them because of the mad cars they have outside, usually subarus and evos, mostly look track orientated. Set me back 1300 quid including cam belt change and some other bits and bobs gearbox oil changed and a service. I think the garage itself is OK, but the young lad they had working on my car, really wound me up, very quickly. Staring me in The eyes lying to me ><

Thanks for your input gents.

so it could just be the cams rattling their bags off?

 I am, really not the most capable of people in any walk of life and so the idea of getting stuck into me is terrifying. 

 

 

 

 

Edited by OttersPocket
For got

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Wow! £1300 for such little amount of work! That's a lot of cash.

Yes, charge that much for a Subaru Evo, they are very complex vehicles and are intricate, but these Starlet engines are so simple to work on it really should not have cost that much.

The rattle will be more prominent at higher RPM's. There is a chance it's the cams and it's very simple thing to check.

 

Depending on your state of tune, whip the rocker cover off and spin the cams around with an adjustable until you can see where the service bolt should go. If the wholes line up perfectly then you know it's not that. If they don't, then the garage you took it to need a good bollocking!

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It took them nearly four weeks to get it back to me and as I said it still didn't work. 

Unfortunately though the noise almost dies off the higher the rpms, its between 2 and 3k

Went out to see her after your replies and noticed a little puddle of oil dripping out onto the scuttle panel left hand side, which could have only developed since the rattle got worse. I will have to explore and add more about that, baught tears to me eyes :$

Thanks so much for the input. 

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Well there are two things mate.

 

Firstly, these engines are incredibly reliable. So even if it's not been done properly, it's not the end of the world. I made so many mistakes when building my engine it's a miracle it runs. Starts first time on the key after 3 years of being parked up outside. So don't worry about that.

 

Secondly, this garage sounds like a bunch of cowboys, clearly got the apprentice to work on your car as it doesn't sound right at all.


See if anyone can recommend a good garage in the Staffordshire area as I wouldn't want to drive it without knowing where that rattle is coming from.

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I've just had the cam cover off. Just at going to have a look into service bolt position to check, ima have a search on here before i Continue, thanks alot. 

I don't have any car fwiends or use the Internet much at all, no Facebook etc so I shall leave a post on here ive seen a few about in the area so I shall put a post up else where on here and see what sort of shout backs I get, thanks again callum, got me out of bed, where I was sulking hehe

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So after a bit of reading, 

Sometimes I can't belive I'm this dim, the dots line up, but the holes dont quite line up they're close, but all the teeth line up....... 

I am Confused about this, but would that suggest that the rattle could be coming from this area? 

Edited by OttersPocket
Dumb

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The dots are for the timing, again because it's a twin cam you need to ensure the exhaust valves open when the intake is closed.

 

The dots are irrevelant for this diagnostics and we're just looking at the service bolt hole for the moment.

 

headremoving018.jpg

 

 

 

 

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Just now, OttersPocket said:

The hole is one tooth out? You can see the edge of the smaller cogs hole, but would not be able to get a bolt thru it.

Right, well then the cam isn't tensioned properly mate and needs removal.


The bolt should be able to go through and the cam removed to stop it being unsprung.

 

Can someone just verify this for us. I'm confident I'm right. Pretty sure that will cause it to rattle a little.

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The little in that sentence makes me worry. It started of little, but by the time I got home it was properly loud. 

Its definitely a start though, something I can sort myself, hopefully.

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On 05/08/2018, 22:56:16, OttersPocket said:

The little in that sentence makes me worry. It started of little, but by the time I got home it was properly loud. 

Its definitely a start though, something I can sort myself, hopefully.

Well a lot of rattle bud.

Tension the cam back up and see if that solves the problem.

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19 hours ago, Calum122 said:

Well a lot of rattle bud.

Tension the cam back up and see if that solves the problem.

I’m having this issue after removing my cams and not realising they were sprung,

 

is it as as simple as twisting it until it lines up and putting a bolt through it? 

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It's as simple as that. 

 

Just make sure that the cam lobe journals are placed EXACTLY as they were removed.


Easy enough as they are both labelled and numbered.

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