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myweestar5

Spark & Fuel but no Fire??

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3 hours ago, akyakapotter said:

http://www.toyotagtturbo.com/community/index.php?threads/4efte-engine-timing-and-tork.99425/ have a look here mate halfway down the page. Your cam timing is way out by the looks of it.

Thanks akyakapotter, that's actually one of the guides I was following but when checking my cams were in line with each other they seem to be in line, see pic below. Do you mean my cam and crank timing looks way off? 20190517_003110_zpscbhsocir.jpg

Edited by myweestar5

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Yup thats way off.

Follow the guide on the link above. The cam pulley has 2 positions it can be located, you will see when you take it off. Thats probably wrong too if the marks at the back are lining up but the 4e hole is not on the top indent in the head

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44 minutes ago, RobSR said:

Yup thats way off.

Follow the guide on the link above. The cam pulley has 2 positions it can be located, you will see when you take it off. Thats probably wrong too if the marks at the back are lining up but the 4e hole is not on the top indent in the head

Ok so your saying that the crank and cam are way out of line, but when you say the cam pulley has 2 positions that I can see once it's off what are these actually for, is one indent for 4E engine timing and the other 5E engine timing?

What do you mean when you say "that's probably wrong too" ?

If my cams are in line with each other then is it not only the crank shaft that's out of line?

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14 hours ago, myweestar5 said:

 

 

Judging by the above it appears you were all right in thinking it was the timing. I have no crank pulley puller so I'm going to try get one tomorrow so I dont have much hassle as most of the crank pulleys edge is already chipped away from someone else before me. Can anyone tell me which of the marks in pic number 2 I need to line up (A or C) and what the tippex mark (B) is for?

Thanks for your help so far. 

check if the cam gears have their dots alligned aswell?

disregard, just saw you already did that

I would replace the timing belt and set the timing correct according to the guides, it should work then

Edited by maerijn

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1 hour ago, myweestar5 said:

Ok so your saying that the crank and cam are way out of line, but when you say the cam pulley has 2 positions that I can see once it's off what are these actually for, is one indent for 4E engine timing and the other 5E engine timing?

What do you mean when you say "that's probably wrong too" ?

If my cams are in line with each other then is it not only the crank shaft that's out of line?

Ok, with the cams like this:

 

20190517_003110_zpscbhsocir.jpg

What is lining up with the indent on the head the other side? From you previous posts you have implied that the 4E indent isnt lined up? Which means its been done on the 5e mark.

Line the cams up like below, make sure the other side of cam sprocket is inline with the top indent and the 4e mark. 

Take the belt off

Rotate crank to 0 deg (its ok to turn it without the belt on as its a non interference engine)

Put belt back on

Check dizzy timing other end with marks in end of cam.

Just follow the guide, and you cant do it wrong.....


 

 

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Ok that's good info thanks for this as I know it may seem dumb but I could have missed out on having all 3 timing marks at the top lined together. It sounds like I may have to remove the cam shafts but maybe I'm wrong.

I'm now going to get a timing belt, can anyone tell me if a Motor Factors one is good enough and should I need the whole kit-tensioner, idle pulley ect.?

Also will a 3 jaw puller do the job of removing the crank pulley or does it have to be a crank pulley removal tool?

Edited by myweestar5

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8 hours ago, RobSR said:

Ok, with the cams like this:

 

What is lining up with the indent on the head the other side? From you previous posts you have implied that the 4E indent isnt lined up? Which means its been done on the 5e mark.

‐-----My cam pulley is lined up with the top indent when the 2 cam shafts marks are lined up on the other side. In my earlier post it was the cam pulley not lining up when the crank pulley was lined up to the "0" mark."""

Rotate crank to 0 deg (its ok to turn it without the belt on as its a non interference engine)

------0 deg is the "0" mark on the timing cover, yes?


 

 

 

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5 hours ago, RobSR said:

Ok take belt off and rotate crank to 0 deg mark on cover 

Have it done mate but I've fitted the new belt and thinking I had studied it enough I somehow still managed to be out a tooth when all fitted :unknw:

I fitted it anti clockwise from crank up and back around to the tensioner being the last place to slip in on but it ended up out a tooth. Is there a way to lock the cam shaft from moving while doing it? 

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:D:) And she fires! Got all lined up and new belt on, put some stuff back on to just check it runs and it starts first turn off the key! It seems to be idling a little rough and very smoky its almost like theres unbured fuel coming through too so will have to see about that but I am a very happy man for now! I couldn't have done it without all the support given to me by all of you on here. Thanks for all your support, tips and tricks! ;):thumbsup:
 
I'm now just stuck trying to properly tighten up my crank pulley bolt, I've tried locking the wheels with it in gear and brakes on but when I turn the crank pulley bolt it just keeps moving even though the wheels don't, so I'm not sure what to do here. I haven't reinstalled the engine mount yet and I think its maybe contributing to allowing extra unwanted movement but if I install it then I don't think I'll have space to fit on the torque wrench. Any ideas for this?

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1 hour ago, myweestar5 said:
:D:) And she fires! Got all lined up and new belt on, put some stuff back on to just check it runs and it starts first turn off the key! It seems to be idling a little rough and very smoky its almost like theres unbured fuel coming through too so will have to see about that but I am a very happy man for now! I couldn't have done it without all the support given to me by all of you on here. Thanks for all your support, tips and tricks! ;):thumbsup:
 
I'm now just stuck trying to properly tighten up my crank pulley bolt, I've tried locking the wheels with it in gear and brakes on but when I turn the crank pulley bolt it just keeps moving even though the wheels don't, so I'm not sure what to do here. I haven't reinstalled the engine mount yet and I think its maybe contributing to allowing extra unwanted movement but if I install it then I don't think I'll have space to fit on the torque wrench. Any ideas for this?

Take starter off and lock the flywheel.

If its smoking it could be because its been standing for so long, however check the basics like the water lines on the throttle body being on the right way. It'll smoke and run very badly if you have them the wrong way round.

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Thanks RobSR, but I ended up finding a quick way on Google where u remove 1 spark plug, rotate crank so the piston is down below TDC, feed in to the cylinder a long piece of strong string (paracord was what I used), then when the cylinder is full of string, rotate the pulley bolt and the piston cant compress the string so it doesn't budge and I got my torque spec within a half turn. Had it done in 10mins.:)
 
Got the mount back into position, and everything else is refitted. Started it and left it idling for a bit then after giving it some revs it blew off the top mount intercooler as I hadn't it fully tightened, but since then it seems to cut out unless you keep your foot on the throttle. It won't start without the same now either. What could cause this, idle control valve maybe??

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