Mr. Chem

Sorry to hijack the thread but I'm taking my V on my first track day beginning of next month.

Have any of you had issues with noise limits?

The only difference would be the jdm points as I said mate, all filters are basically the same

Most filters are basically the same.

Different materials have different properties however.

Paper has the best filtering properties but needs regular replacement as it becomes clogged and flow becomes reduced overtime.

Cotton (such as k&n or green) is the next best, normally these have oil to improve their efficiency

Foam (hks or piper cross) is next, again oiled.

Metal gauze has the highest flow, but also the worst at filtering

At the end of the day your intake length and routing will have a greater effect than the make of air filter you fit.

If you are running a standard efi pipe, the stock air box and paper element filter will be sufficient. I.e a cone filter makes bugger all difference

If you are using a front mount the stock air box no longer is an option due to space, hence why you see people using a cone filter.

If you have ripped out the air con you can relocate the filter in front of the radiator which improves response and top end, but increases the likelihood of boost creep.

I have just done the latter having blown my air con pipe work to pieces, and it makes a huge difference. The stock efi pipe is very good at keeping the boost creep minimal.

If you are set on an air filter, you can buy relocation kits, make your own with some silicon joiners and pipe work or just measure your inlet diameter.

Hope this helps

You can get the offside out from the top by taking the headlight out. The near side is easiest from behind the arch lining.

Hi all,

I'm after the air con hard pipe that runs up the drivers side to the condenser. Mine has a hole in it

Thanks

I use the soap method, as you can see the precise point where the boost is leaking from. Works great with any leaks where the air is being blown out.

>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b3KmQenhWDY&safe=active

If the boost is leaking, easy start won't have any effect as the air will force the spray out.

Better of spraying with washing up liquid mixed with water and watching for bubbles.

I'm still around, and I've completed some more stuff on the car now so I'm ready for an update.

Mostly last year I was bombing around in the car, extremely happy with the direction it was going in and how it drove.

Then some scrubbing from the rear of the car starting happening, and the exhaust was banging on the rear axle. It was clear the car had lost ride height, and this had obviously swung the axle over hence the scrubbing. It turned out to be 2 knackered standard starlet shocks, which I quickly replaced with some KYB gas jobs which have been brilliant.

Then it was time to install the parts that had been sitting in my study for a while - the WEPR manifold and the Gizzmo EBC.

It took me a total of 2 days to finish the install to a satisfactory level. I couldn't get to one of the nuts holding the turbo to the mainfold, so I removed the power-steering pump to remove the manifold with tubby still attached.

Whilst taking this all off it gave me opportunity to check the turbo for play and it was still sweet as. Standard CT9b too.

So in went the new manifold

This meant I could up the boost to 1bar safe in the knowledge that the 3rd runner restriction wasn't going to result in a melted piston. The gizzmo was then used to up the boost. I set the actuator so that it sat closed (Around 0.6bar) and used the EBC to up it to a bar.

This turned into a very irritating day. I'd had a lot of the intercooler pipework out to make room for moving things, and somehow when reinstalling all the gubbins the angle the hot pipe was at wasn't quite right, and this put the corner under a lot of pressure and kept blowing the joiners off. This was extremely annoying as it meant I was taking the bumper on/off.

Eventually I got the angle right, and could experience full throttle at 1bar for the first time.

Holy Crap! The roads where I live are very uneven, so the starlet scrabbles and launches its self over imperfections. It seemed so much faster than it did before.

Even the girlfriend was impressed (and she is not a fan of starlets lol).

So that was it as far as I was concerned. Did a few amateurish photos.

Glanza's get you all the pussy...

I was happy with the car for a while, but I started to notice this flat spot in the middle of the rev range. It was like I had no torque, and then it would all come at once.

I thought it was a misfire, so preceded to replace the whole ignition system, one component at a time. Sparks - worn but ok, Dizzie and rotor arm - very worn. New coil, changed NGK blues for some magnecores. Each time I looked at something, it looked spent so it was replaced.

This went on, even to the point of replumbing some of the vacuum lines in a bit to rule out stuff, but even when I found issues, they still didn't resolve my "misfire".

It dawned on me it was probably the JAM - I was asking too much boost and as it I don't know what it was mapped for, couldn't supply the right amount of fuel. I decided to go down the Emanage route - sold the JAM to a mate, and booked a visit to Tuning Developments.

It was a great day - easy install and mapping session - Mike had originally said they had needed to the car to about 4, but they were done by 1:30pm. Absolutely no issues with the car for them to resolve - hence the easy time of it.

Now my setup is slightly compromised again by my unwilling to remove the aircon, and hence I still use the stock EFI which is proving to be slightly restrictive at high revs.

Despite this, my car made an extremely healthy 186.1bhp and 200 lbft at the fly. Mike commented on how healthy overall the car seemed, and how "tight" it had felt on the test drive. All of which made me feel very pleased with my little starlet.

I left TD extremely happy - the map has made the car feel extremely smooth and very torquey. It has oodles of power in the mid range it was missing before, which means it gains speed so much faster than it used to. Its taking so getting some getting used to, and a fair amount of accidental tailgating.

At the moment the V is in winter mode on some scruffy alloys with rubbish tyres until I get some new rubber for my summer wheels.

The engine is about as far as I can go on a ct9 now, so next up will be some further chassis and aesthetic improvements - first up will be better brake pads!

Thanks for reading.

Peach 😊

Hi all,

I need a clear offside indicator lens for my Glanza as a stone has gone through my current one.

Also if anyone has any rubber covers for the back of the foglights (im sure the 96/98 are the same) that would be most appreciated.

Thanks

ECU like a jam or a blitz that has no fuel cut

Hks actuator set to a lower pressure.

Drive at 90%

Do you have a boost gauge?

Boost cut.

You're exceeding the factory boost limit of 0.85 bar.

Common with the colder weather

Is it a really high pitches whistle noise that gets louder as you throttle up?

You've probably popped a boost hose.

Not lost a drop.

Fan works perfect.

White can also be over or under fuel

New symptom - smoke during the stutter.

Stutter is worse under load (4th and fifth uphill)

Smoke appears white I think. It's not much and there is none on idle, just when it stutters.

Well that's irritating.

I'll see about a pump then. Seems strange it pulls fine at higher revs though

Plugs are gapped to 0.8mm.

I guess I'll have to try a different set of leads then

Hopefully that works

It's running a tuning developments 255lph pump

No wide band I'm afraid

Budget is seriously limited

Standard fpr

Hi all,

I'm having some issues with my glanza. I've been finding that around 3500-4000 revs it hesitates at full throttle and boost. If I back up to 0.5bar it starts pulling again.

Low revs and high revs are fine.

The car is running 1bar on a ct9 on a jam ECU.

I've only noticed it doing this when I upped boost from 0.8 to 1 bar.

So far I've changed plugs, dizzie cap and rotor arm. The leads are Ngk blues about a year old and still at a good resistance level.

I have looked at the coil, cleaned up the base plate and fitted another earth to it.

No fault codes stored.

I've tried unplugging the lambda sensor

I don't know if it's related, as it's always done this, but after a hot start the engine revs very low for a few minutes.

Thanks

HDI cooler and anything thick will need the bumper trimming to fit properly.

Mines a 98 with air con and it required some inventive fettling with the air con fan too

Keep the air con mate. It's not just the hot weather it's the ability to demist in 30s when it's raining.

Normally I'd crack out an oxyacetylene torch. This cheeky bugger gets in the car if I leave a door open when unloading.

I guess you could say that having a glanza gets you all the pussy...

Hi all,

I'm trying to decat my car, but I'm struggling to get the cat off.

There is nothing attaching it to the car, but it still won't come off.

Let me know what you think:

Hey bud. How new are the dizzie cap and rotor arm?

The other is mine