Mr. Chem

There aren't many intercoolers that will fit without chopping the bumper somewhat. The problem is compounded if you are looking to retain your a/c.

Arc top mounts are direct replacement and a lot thicker than standard. If you are planning on running mega boost though I'd recommend a front mount.

Bump

Here's a subtle mod courtesy of MCM

I gutted a shift light I bought off eBay and mounted it behind my rev counter. This worked ok for a while, but was very patchy.

I then had a brain wave. Using a flexible led strip normally used for Audi style drls connected to the shift light electronics, I ended up with the below:

http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/trog_nfs/media/FA68F37A-00E8-4734-A36E-8E9FC243F6ED-11261-00000134A7A19BC2_zpsc0b12b04.mp4.html

Decat is sold

Please check your PMs from myself.

Still have the ARC, and pm sent to blackmar

Because that would be far too easy!

Thicker cores are more efficient, so it's future proofing.

Plus got the hdi for a good price.

Have purchases a few bits for the V.

One of Wepr's ct9 OEM manifolds to remove the 3rd runner restrictions

And a gizzmo ms-isc ebc to give better boost control when I start pushing the limits of the standard turbo. This will allow me to have multiple modes so on the daily drive the boost can be turned down to save wear etc.

I'm hoping for some good weather end of October to get the brakes finally sorted.

Yeah I still have the decat and I could post to Devon buddy

Thanks buddy

Is it the one I sold you? (Arc)

If so I still have the pressure test pictures I took for you

Ryan

Yeah its your one buddy.

If you could post those photos buddy that would be great

Do you still have the pod holder mate

I do

It's called camera+ for iPhone.

The really good pics are from friends with proper cameras and photoshop lol

Cheers guys.

Mods are on hold for a bit now until half term.

The brakes are up for renewal next, as they are rubbish. Got a full set of OEM discs pads and bearings to swap in as well as braided lines. Then once the discs are bedded in, I'll find some harder compound pads.

The ARC served me well. It's a great bit of kit

And unlike most things it's a direct fit!

Day 3: the home straight.

All the hard was finished, the final steps was to refit some items and to finish the tidy up. Earlier in my build thread I fitted a temperature sensor, and I wanted to swap this into the FMIC piping. However, as always the gods conspired against me, and the metal sensor snapped off and fell into the depths of the cooler piping. Desperately I shoved my magnetic pick up tool into the pipework, but to no avail; the sensor was non-ferrous. Crap.

And so began the labourers task of yet again removing the bumper and pipes to retrieved said sensor. Many blue moments passed, before it was removed. Luckily I had a spare, so this was soldered onto the wire and refitted successfully.

The factory cold air feed cold then be modified to work with my apexi (cutting the back out) as well as my old Ali heat shield.

The intercooler sprayer could then be moved from the scoop to the number plate recess.

And so concluded a very tiring few days.

I think it doesn't look too bad for a first attempt, which means I just about met the criteria I set myself.

I know I haven't followed the well trodden routes of startled modification, but given how hot our summers have been recently, I couldn't get rid of my air con. And given the amount of flex the front end has without the crash bar, hacking that up wasn't an option either.

Project compromise eh?

Day 2. The face off between cooler core and bumper. You can see them squaring up to each other, trying to psych each out.

No scutch this time (he'd had enough) but peachy returned to help.

The plan: refit the bumper over the enormous hdi core.

Weapon of choice: Dremel.

The arena: my driveway.

Basically the cooler bent me over.

The plan of attack was to remove pieces of the bumper little pieces at a time. This was complicated by the OEM frontlip, which is made of very thick plastic and is bolted to the bumper.

The cutting eventually started to yield results. The casualties? Half the width of the middle and lower spars, all the vertical supports and some of the lower mounting point of the bumper. This led us to this:

Only on on one side. Crap. The culprit was eventually found to be two of the lip mounting bolt, which just stuck up too far. These were quickly dispatched, and what do you know?

Now when reading a build thread, the sense of time isn't apparent. Let me tell you, this was about 5 hours of cutting and fitting all in, with 20 mins for lunch.

Now we knew it would fit, the tidying up could begin. If you cut plastic with a dremel, even at slow speed you get a lot of melted plastic. Armed with wet and dry paper, we had to smooth out the contours you can see below.

Hard at work mr peach

The end result was a much smoother finish.

I was glad of my decision to paint my intercooler black, maximum stealth.

That was day two, and a very tired pair of amigos surveyed the dremel graveyard, called it a day from there.

These were the led side lights 181084108916

Now the problem I have had with all my cars is I get them to a state where I am happy with them, then I get this itch were things tend to get out of hand. On my old VWs that was never a problem due to an abundance of cheap parts on the second hand market, however with the glanza, there is still an abundance of parts, but they are all new and shiny (relatively). Hence things have moved on a bit....

Now I have been getting used to the car, I like the "soft" springs it is running, but it really under steered on the limit. I saw whiteline rear anti roll bars were on offer on camskill, so I er bought one.

It was a bit of a pig to do on the drive way, so a mate helped me out with his ramp.

As well as the anti roll bar, I bought Idrees rear 3 point brace from him.

Impression is that it has made a massive difference! Then handling is a lot more neutral. The best way I can describe it is the pivot point feels closer to the middle of the car. Almost like there is some steering at the back. Wet roundabouts are hilarious.

The problem with sharpening up the handling was highlighting the power deficit. It wasn't that it was slow, just felt like there was more to give. My plan is to getto a bar on the ct9. But there are a number of areas which needed improving first to make sure the car didn't go bang!

It was recommended that the fuel pump be replaced with a 255lph job, especially as the JAM requires more fuel. I can't have a whiny noise in my car ( my little sister does enough of that!) so I settled on one of tuning developments pumps. Easy to fit, and no noise. I was very impressed. May be something to do with the foam jackets their pumps come with.

One thing I didn't expect was a change in engine behaviour. Normally when I lifted off below 2k, the car burbled. Now it pops and bangs. Which is interesting when driving through supermarket car parks.

The next step in prepping the car was to fit a front mount intercooler. Now my requirements were very specific:

1. The air con had to be retained.

2. No crash bar cutting or removal.

3. The bumper still had to look like a 98 spec, not a chopped mess.

4. Short route hot pipe.

After searching the forum for ages, I finally purchased a Hdi kit. Probably a poor move but it is supposed to be one of the better options.

Would have been far easier to fit like this

Anyway, as term time is quickly approaching, a couple of mates rallied to give me a hand; peachy and scutch. Bribed with pizza lol. Safe to say they won't be helping again.

My first task was to move the horns and sort the wiring out, as well as remove the air can fan. I can hear you saying "but you re keeping the air con", and you'd be right. So a bit of a rewire later and the radiator fan doubles as the air con fan.

Next was removing my ARC and associated pipework.

Then. It was a case of getting it all mounted up

This is where scutch is in his element. Legend pretty much fitted the cooler and pipes himself.

The rest of the pipework followed suit although the factory air box meant I couldn't run a bov. This was swapped out for my apexi. The increase in intake temp will be offsetted by the improved intercooler efficiency.

Not ideal, but no filter relocate due to the air con matrix.

That was effectively the end of day 1. Well it was supposed to be. Upon the test drive ( without the bumper madmax style) my car which used to hit 0.9 bar was only hitting 0.2bar. Crap.

One of the mikalore clamps wasn't secure, but even then the car would only hit 0.4 bar. Diagnosis (again from scutch) was a very worn actuator. Luckily I had a hks replacement in the garage and e clips, but its fitting meant basically removing everything. There are no pics at this point, as we were all fed up and tired as it was being a cube. When the actuator was on (getting dark by this point), in that cinematic fashion we had time for 1 last test drive. Hazzah! All of the boosts! I was so relieved, as were my apathetic by this point chums. Little did we know that the worst part of the ordeal was ahead of us...

Duly noted

Gear knob is now sold

Are you sure? The lambda should be mounted at the top of the down pipe and the wire runs along the right side of the engine

Item For Sale:

ARC intercooler

Item Condition & Description:

This is a genuine cooler, and makes a great upgrade for the standard top mounted interwarmer. There are a few bent fins from where it has touched the inlet manifold but they do not affect its operation in any way. It holds pressure great. I was seeing 0.9 bar. As the casting on these is a little rough, it has been sanded to smooth it and I have painted the end tanks with very fine aluminium paint which improves how it looks but do not affect its efficiency.

Includes the silicon joiners I was using.

The front brackets have been professionally Ali welded to improve strength.

I've had the bend that had been cut professionally ally welded by the same guys that reinforced the front brackets. They pressure tested it for me and there are no leaks.

It is now almost as good as new, save for a few bent fins.

I've put a couple of new pics in.

Price:

£120 inc postage to mainland UK.

Pictures:

Payment & Shipping Details:

PayPal use please add 4%.

Postage to other areas can be arranged at buyers expense.

Monster Motorsport 2 gauge 60mm pillar pod.

Item Condition & Description:

Item is in good condition. Painted currently in grey primer to match 98 spec interior. Two small holes near top for alarm sensor. Very slight crack in gel coat near top.

Price:

£20

Pictures

Payment and shipping

£7 postage

if using PayPal add 4% to total price.

All items all located in Bedfordshire.

Thanks for looking

Could be an exhaust leak from the manifold or turbo? Is the manifold cracked at all?

The heat from the exhaust could be causing the crack to open when hot, which may be why it's ok when cold.

You can actually get all 4 bolts attached to the cushion.

For the drivers, if you dremel the little nodules off the stop on the front two bolt holes, you can flip them and they line up with the holes in the cushion.

On the passenger side the front holes are static, so some strips of thick steel can be used to allow the brackets to reach the bolt holes.

Just got back from meeting Matt and his dad.

Top blokes and you better hurry if you want to see his mint Clio Williams

Try replacing the bulbs anyway, sometimes they look like they haven't gone but in reality they have.

Did you test the bulbs across a 9v battery? If you have one lying around its an easy way to check.