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riko666

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Posts posted by riko666

  1. What he said

    4E and 5E essentially depends on what you want out of the engine; having a slightly longer stroke the 5E will benefit torque range and amount over the 4E, allowing to obtain perhaps marginal improvements in spool characteristics on larger turbochargers, whereas a 4E will favour a higher/quicker revving setup, with slightly peakier delivery.

    Should also consider compression ratio - granted lowering the Static ratio gives some head space for Detonation threshold, but at the sacrifice of combustion efficiency, response, and so on. If you have a very good tune, a higher c/r setup can provide big gains in responsiveness and torque, albeit with a decreasing margin of error when increasing boost levels.

  2. You are slightly mistaken - the "LSD Gearbox" people refer to that require changing the driveshafts is the optional Viscous-LSD Gearbox available from factory; these utilised a slightly shorter driver-side driveshaft and a different rear engine mount. It is not the gearbox for which an aftermarket LSD is to be installed into - infact, there aren't any aftermarket differentials that can fit into the Optional-LSD Gearbox [well, TRD USED to make them, but very small numbers and a long time ago]

    So, yes, the TRD LSD will fit your gearbox on the basis that you don't have the optional LSD Gearbox

  3. Exactly - it would trigger the ABS on a bone-dry road surface not even going fast or braking hard, it was [pun very much intended] shocking

    Indeed it would - basically any and all suspension hard points and attachments, are the same, with a predominance of EP82 influence, for example using EP82 type front anti-roll bar endlinks, front control arm bush diameters, rear axle bushes and so on. The only differences are with the chassis length. That being said, a LOT more space in the engine bay as well, bigger radiator and so on. One benefit I found is that there is sufficient space as well to have intercooler piping go around the radiator, thus shortening intercooler piping length and not taking the absurd rollercoaster paths the Starlet ones seem to. And if you want to do a 4E transplant, the mechanic Toby used to use is not far from you in Droitwich, and he's worked on Paseos. I.e. Mine :thumbsup:

  4. Another issue is, everyone is quick to deride these plug and play ECUs for having a "Fixed" Map. If manufacturers manage to map them in the first place, all you'd have to do is find someone that has the ability to re-map these. Certainly the stock ECU probably wouldn't have some of the features or the depth of resolution of some of the diverse options out there, but that is not to say they should be condemned. My contact has the ability to re-map the Stock ECU for example, though I doubt it would be cheap. I think SARD still offer the ability to re-map their ECUs as they still sell them new, as would KS-ROM I would presume.

    Don't think as well that these P'n'P ECUs were exclusively reserved for CT9 and Hybrid-based setups :thumbsup:

  5. As its clear, its a subjective topic - the lack of hassle of the plug and play ECUs will appeal to some, the ability to tailor a map to your specific setup with a mappable ECU will appeal to others, it would come down to the individual rather than trying to convince who is more right.

  6. I don't know what the weight distribution differences are like between the cars, and the weight increase is minimal, by the order of around 60-80kg, so I wouldn't think the rates would be too far out.

    However, what I can recommend is to avoid the apparent "Perfect" combination of KYB SS Shocks with RS*R Springs. It was a horrible combination. Sat well [around a 40mm reduction in height], but the springs were too soft for the shock absorbers, the rebound was fairly vicious, actually causing loss of traction on bumpy stretches of road.

  7. They are cheap, and for a reason - the SCAT rods weigh a ton, need block notching and so on, but they're silly cheap.

    Basically you need to weigh your options with what you want out of the setup; Wiseco/SCAT sets go very cheap, allows you to have cheap forged internals which will net you that safety margin with higher boost/loads. Done. If you want some actual objectives met, then there are many other options, just like with differentials - would you prefer mechanical or helical, or don't particularly care and just want a differential to limit traction loss? Likewise with camshafts, are they matched to your setup or are you just hoping to "add" power, somewhere in the rpm-band willynilly?

    And so forth

  8. I cannot comparatively describe the Paseo against the Starlet, that being said though if such things matter, it has a stiffer bodyshell (smaller roof area, rear bulkhead), lower center of gravity, and is quite aerodynamic, especially for its age. It does weigh a bit more than a Starlet, but I would think the short gearing of the C15# Gearboxes can compensate for this, especially when used with a 4E-FTE etc. It has a longer wheelbase, which accounts for the majority of the length increase, which would probably make the car feel somewhat less immediate than a Starlet, but perhaps slightly better riding and more stable at speed. They also have a marginally wider track, and I noticed that the steering arm on the hubs were shorter on the Paseo, thus possibly making for a quicker steering ratio - the steering is fine on them, I hate powersteering, but with the powersteering removed, at speed its no heavier than with the PAS in situ'. Steering directness is improved NO end with a lower control arm brace.

    Suspension is basically identical, more so for the EP82 [i.e. for control arm bushes and rear axle bushes] - the only issue is with rear strut braces, that require some careful "massaging" of the rear bulkhead lip, and front 3 point ones [i.e. Carbing], as the bulkhead seems to be shaped differently.

    Otherwise, its basically a prettier Starlet, with even less rear room.

  9. You have to first question yourself, if you need it.

    It would be prohibitively expensive to setup - you would need a custom sump fabricated [usually cast or machined from billet - doubt sheet metal is strong enough], together with the dry sump pump, accumulators, tanks, and all piping. Kits aren't even readily available for engines like the RB26 as it is not really something that is utilised or practical for road vehicles. For a race vehicle it will have its benefits, but for road, or even trackday vehicle, it is grossly over-specified.

    A MUCH cheaper alternative is the Accusump system - its basically a pressurised reservoir tank that stores oil, pressurised by the engine, and on ANY fall of pressure in the system, releases its contents into the engine, thus preventing surge. I think the main componentry for the Accusump is around £500; dry sump you're easily looking at 10x more.

    Beyond that though, all that is actually needed for a track vehicle is correct baffling - Dry Sump on a Starlet is little more than eccentric lunacy

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