PureRage

thx i had fun writing about all the ups n downs

the drum brakes hold up suprisingly well. even after a track abuse session they remain fine. Everybody keeps saying rear disks are better but sofar my rear brakes seems to last longer in heat than my front ones. also, drum brakes have a larger brake surface compared to the disk brakes. and sofar have not had any problems with overheating. and trust me ive tried i did go for the larger front brakes compared to the stock ep82 NA brakes. the gt brakes are just plain better. using ebc yellow pads and ebc disks. oem drums and new oem pads in the rear

so the car is now parked for the winter also working on another project so this car will probably sit unchanged this winter

any marks on the piston that caused the bore scrape? is the mark deep enough to feel it with your nail? or is it only visible but not detectable by feel? did you oil the cylinder walls before installing the pistons? the mark on the bearing is indeed a no oil mark. seems like the bearing is slightly too tight there. either wrong size bearing or some foreighn material behind the bearing that is making it too tight. make sure the bearing surface is clean before pressing in the bearing to the rod/cap. and this is why a std size isnt the best sollution. toyota made it in 3 sizes for a reason.

if you have gotten it measured and got the matching bearings it should be fine. read back and i did not see any notification that it was measured so i can understand the confusion there. the accident waiting to happen would (i would think) be the case of not measured, guess the bearings, toss it together and run it

got a picture of the gap you mentioned? did you add assembly lube between crank and bearrings? seems to rotate freely, so looks good. got a micrometer to check directional play of the crank?

i did not expect it but it did turn out to be a crappy connection to the coil. fixed it and were rly happy! these crappy problems tage sooo long to track down!

anybody else have an idea what can cause this?

take the manifold off, look into the head and see if you can spot oil from the stem. ive had this problem aswell. you can indeed swap the seals without popping the head but imho it is best to lift the head and clean the cylinders. mine had a lot of burnt oil flakes on the cylinders which can cause detonation. so for piece of mind i would take it apart and clean it up. also gives you the chance to check/clean the head

also be sure to use clean tools. toss them sockets in a dishwasher so you dont get any grit/sand/dirt anywhere it doesnt belong. many engines have failed due to simple errors made during the build. sofar i see you are doing things the right way. read up, ask questions, doublecheck no question is dumb while building an engine.

changed efi relais, no change. engine still cuts out at random. at idle or at load, doesnt matter. not sensetive for bumps or wiggeling the loom.

yeps. changed igniter, coil, leads, cap, rotor, even swapped entire rotor/sensor assembly, and ecu

the car is currently at my place, as marijn has said we have changed out everything related to the ignition. have not tried efi relay yet. will give that a shot. the symptoms are that the car just shuts off completely. rev counter goes to 0 while the car slows down on the engine. then suddenly its like the ignition is turned on again and the car picks up like nothing happened. injectors also shut off as there is no bang in the exhaust when the car fires up again. will give the efi relay a go and hope to god that is it

check timing belt, if its off by 1 tooth it can give similar effects

thx it has been quite the journey