Danturbo4311

do a diagnostic test to see if you got any errors codes coming up by locating the diagnostic port next to the battery & bridging TE1 & E1, & read the ECU flashes (tutorial on this site) if theres no faults & your pretty sure its fuel pump you can check the fuse under the bonnet cant remember which is the fuel pump of the top of my head but if you remove the plastic cover for the fuse holder itll tell you on the reverse side what each fuse does, if the fuse is fine, bridge ports Fp & +B in same diagnostic port this will run the fuel pump constantly when ignition is on then t

dont forget to tension the intake gears if a service bolt wasnt fitted when removing them.

Get yourself a dye grinder & do it yourself its just a case of taking a bit off the bottom of the cylinders to allow the rods clearance, If your capable of building a bottom end your more than capable of notching the block, just makesure you clean it all up properly afterwards.

cylinder leakage tester or Compression test will tell you if its rings as others have said, with a compression test once you get the results put a spoonfull of oil down the low cylinders & repeat the test to see if compression raises. on our engines its normally the ringlands (between the rings) which crack. The symptoms of ring failure can vary depending on condition of the other rings & what ring has failed.

Does sound like it was deting especially if the gasket has blown between cylinders has he touched/moved the distributor before, makesure he sets the ignition timing to 10btdc, may want to also pop out the pistons whilst the head is off & check to see if the ringlands are ok, (the bit of the piston which is in between the rings) as they normally break off

Im not a fan of all of the above listed but also dont like those stupid novelty horns, there funny the first few times but get on your tits after a while, especially when i was at an event at santa pod last year I was trying to sleep all I could hear were those stupid horns all night. I dislike most body kits, but what makes me laugh is when you see corsa's or nova's with a jap kit on, O & nos purge kits seem pointless, without an actual nos kit to purge.

I put a cruise 1.4mm headgasket on the car about 4 months ago along with ARP headbolts, I've now got myself some speedvision uprated valve springs along with the billet camshafts he sells & my spare head has been port and polished, skimmed, valve work, new seals, re-shimmed etc. im gonna remove all the head bolts in the correct order, what i plan to do is just swap the heads over to save time, obviously give the block a clean, but just wanted to no whos re-used a headgaket before, as it cost 220usd & dont wanna throw it away, i cant see a problem with re-using the ARP bolts anyone agr

looks like an old speedvision manifold the second batch of manifolds he sold had that brace underneath, i had one of his earlier manifolds without the brace held up pretty well for about 2 years then began to crack

i carry two bags full of tools & bits like jubilees, hose etc, just incase, its always the parts you dont have which will go wrong thou, im always helping out with mates cars to when they get problems at the side of the road.

dont forget starlets are quite an old car now really & people are putting bits on them to increase the power, so an engine which is at least 11 years old running more power than it did when it was new is gonna go wrong from time to time, especially if you put something like a bee r on it lol, did you raise the rev limit to much with the bee r & thats why he suspects u damaged a rod, u could give your sump a tap & can sometimes can hear parts of the rod rattling around if its properly snapped lol

alright mate hows it going? I met you last night at lakeside. what you wanna do is a compression test, depending on the results of that, if some cylinders are lower than others or if there all low, you should do a wet compression test, (put a bit of oil down the low cylinders) & if it raises compression then you have most probably got a cracked piston ringland (the bit in between the piston rings). if your pushing oil out the breathers im pretty sure your gonna have a cracked ringland mate.

sounds like you've done some major damage there markoos.

Not sure on this site but seen it on tgtt http://www.toyotagtturbo.com/forums/showthread.php?t=290 All you need is a paper clip or something to bridge the terminals then just read of the blink codes

try a diagnostic test see if any error codes come up

I run an external wastegate with a screamer pipe on my gt28 turbo, running 25psi I've extended the pipe so it sits where my side exit exhaust used to be in the front bumper sounds does sound good when the turbo gets on boost

First thing you should do is remove & check the thermostat in some boiling water makesure thats the problem otherwise if its not the cause of the overheat it will happen again to your new headgasket

Why didnt the RAC person call for a flatbed to pick you up instead then if you were unable to move & damage was going to be done, as they could be held responsible for any damage done to the car whilst there towing it.

speed vision does a sump gasket with his rebuild kit but doesnt sell them seperately as idrees said there is no official sump gasket just sealant

Use a timing gun/strobe light & do it properly set it to 10degrees btdc you dont want to mess anything up on the ignition timing to much advance could give you det. which could cause you to crack pistons or blow head gasket if its to retarded you will lose power & it cause it to hesitate

I can understand the confusion mate just thought id put up the photos as its really hard to explain it and easy for others to see if they have the same problem, yea i found that gasket in my speedvision engine kit never had a problem with any of his stuff before and I've brought alot off him as like you said you dont get it in the oem kit you also dont get the sump gasket in the oem kit either, and I've heard about you rick and i no you your stuff mate.

Pictures showing which gasket i am talking about http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t215/da.../P9100503-1.jpg -picture of block blue arrow pointing towards were the o ring should sits on the pump this Should be fitted. http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t215/da.../P9100502-1.jpg http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t215/da...11/P9100501.jpg -pictures of the oil pump body gasket which i got in my engine gasket kit, toyota did not orignally make a gasket for it, it's supposed to have sealant to seal it to the block hence why theres little channels where the sealant sits in (shown with red arr

It is not bullocks there is an o ring that sits round the pump YES which you need for it to work but in the speedvision gasket set you also get a gasket which fits round the oil pump body which fits to the block. Thats the gasket i am talking about not the o ring. I can provide photos if you want trust me i set up an experiment with my spare block fitted the pick up pipe with the pump in place and a bowl of oil, with the pump body gasket in place and span it over on my drill at full power with no pick up, however as soon as i removed the oil pump body gasket guess what it picked up the oil wit

please dont tell me you used the oil pump gasket as it acts as a spacer between the pump & block therefore the pump has not got the pressure to lift the oil, what you gotta do is loosen oil filter spin the pump see if the oil is getting to filter, i did that mistake and first time it cost me a crankshaft and bearings you should only use sealant not a gasket

Thanks for getting me the gaskets i needed for my rebuild mate, all were the correct ones even though my descriptions were a bit dodgey lol will be doing business again very soon i hope as i need more bits ;) thanks