Maaximuus

That new bumper is loads better!

Thanks mate got my clear indicators fitted today as well and gave the car a wash but forgot to take any pictures! haha oh well

mine is doing this it wont go past 6k revs without engine light coming on and engine making a judder noise

Sure you don't have an adjustable actuator that's set too high? Or maybe if you have an exhaust or decat or a well placed intake or something like that that might just make it go over boost cut especially at 6k revs when it's cold like it is? I'm not sure, just my 2 cents

I got a manifold and actuator off him, it did take a while for courier to get it here, like 2 or 3 weeks ish. He didn't give me a tracking number even though I asked a few times too and I got worried but it did arrive in the end! And yeah postal service is busy busy at the moment pal so it's probably just that

Bought Glanza-man's old bumper, looks miles better and meaner! Just needs a front mount for teeth haha. Hopefully I can get my clear indicators on before TD next week!

Parts parts parts!

Most of these are for when I go to TD, should be having a front bumper delivered before then!

Sounds like you have a little project on your hands there mate, sure it will be all good once its done though! Love those wheels aswell by the way

Aye cheers dude!

Looks great mate! You need the original glanza mirrors back on there as someones fitted n.a ones! Unless it was a n.a originally?

Thanks! Yeah I know It's on my long list of things to get haha, it wasn't n/a originally just the last owner put n/a ones on

Hey

Time I got one of these up!

I've had my glanza for about 2 months now and it's my second car (I know risky and all that) and I've had mixed feelings. For the first few weeks it was off the road more than it was, the clutch went at one point, another time a pin that connects the gear stick fell out and found it it was bodged, I found out there was a fair few important bolts that holds the gearbox to the car was missing too, and theres been a few other times the thing just failed on me.

Currently it works but it just seems noisy inside and the brakes don't really work as they should. The front bumper and rear are slightly different shades of white and the front is cut to buggery! Other than that I kinda love owning one, it certainly is quick enough for me seeing as It's my second car haha

Currently all it has is a livesports spoiler, d2 on the front and tien on the rear, gt3 wheels, kinoshita steering wheel, GT seats and some unknown dump valve.

I am heading down to TD next month to get a decat fitted, a new manifold and HKS actuator that may or may not arrive yet along with gaskets an oil change then dyno! Other than that the paint is horrible and it's clear the car used to be silver and was badly repainted at some point. I plan on getting it mostly resprayed at some point, and basically upgrading most of the important bits like brakes, suspension, underseal, paint, engine/ turbo, and basically turning it into a good example of a glanza if I can! I've probably forgotten something but ANYWAY.. PICTURES

As title says, preferably with plastics!

Thanks

Aye do that and keep the airfilter where it is.

The intercooler and exhaust are still standard yeah?

Then fingers crossed you 'should' be fine at standard boost. Ie not creeping to FC levels.

Unless you are tanning along foot to the floor in -7°C or something haha.

Yeah standard intercooler and exhaust for now, I'll try and get hold of a decent boost gauge though!

Lol yeah I'll keep my foot steady whilst it's cold haha

Yes mani and ported w/g should be fine.

Awesome, we finally got there lol. Cheers dude

The standard airflow is fine you will be safe fitting the decat it's as soon as you increase boost it can complicate things especially with the stock intercooler. Best choice of decat you got! Since you aint got the exhaust system go for that next get the gasses out quicker forget about upping the boost yet mate I'd wait exhaust then fmic.

-2.5 exhaust

-Short route fmic

-decent dump valve..hks

-decent boost gauge hks defi sard apexi blitz

-filter relocation shorter route

-Fit manifold with hks actuator 0.8 bar

-Piggy back ecu or plug n play set actuator to a bar

this is one route of many you can take. The only way you can go wrong is playing with high boost with no map or using shite gaskets look at build threads.

Right ok, well wouldn't a decent exhaust system increase boost creep even more? Along with some of the other mods you listed? and I don't plan on increasing boost yet but boost creep will do that on it's own and damage things which is kinda why I started this thread haha. I think porting the wastegate sounds ideal for me because it's free primarily, but I'll probably be getting a plug and play at some point too! and yeah I'll buy genuine gaskets, cheers for the heads up on that one

From what your saying I don't think you'll suffer from boost creep, not with pretty much standard intake, exhaust and intercooler.

I get a bit of creep atm, but it seems to stop about .8

Just waiting on my wepr ewg mani kit then I'll be sorted

Lucky you! How much did that cost?

Its sketchy turning the boost up, or doing so by mistake ie creep. When you are still using the standard non ported exhaust manifold, have you seen runner 3 on a standard manifold? Its as tight as fuck! Pretty dangerous to the engine at any more than standard boost.

Theres a few ways to do this.

My advice, from messing about with starlets for the best part of a few years.. do it once and do it right.

Ive made silly mistakes with modding starlets, not the same as yourself, and its cost me 2 engines..

Right well I do have a speedvision mani so I could put that on at the same time to solve the mani problem right? Then port the wastegate and be pretty much done?

I'm just gonna fit the fucking thing and see what happens, balls to it

Gainzy your telling the man 420 to fit all this just for a decat... minus the cost of a decat? Lol. Your scaring the fella.

Dan ive never ever hit boost cut since i ported my wastegate and a new actuator believe it or not. Even in winter.

I meant port the turbo wastegate not the manifold lol. Thats whatll reduce creep. But as said external wastegate is better for controlling boost Hands down, also dearer. If you just want a decat with no creep, port the wastegate for free with a dremel. Job done.

Yeah I know you meant the turbo wastegate lol, I might give it a bash with a dremel but i'd probably need a full day to get the turbo off, get it done and all back together again, and that's if I think I can trust myself to not fuck it up haha

If you've already bought an adjustable actuator just get a boost guage and then set it up so you don't hit fuel cut.

What exhaust and air filter are you using? Do you have an fmic?

I would do that but couldn't boost creep still put it past whatever I set it to and eventually up to fuel cut? Sorry for being such a noob I'm learning as I go I've got a standard exhaust, some random cone filter that was on the car when I bought it, but that's in the standard air box location (to the right of the engine) and no I don't have a fmic yet either :/ all in good time though

Personally I wouldn't bother porting the wastegate you can't go wrong buying a gauge and a plug n play for now expect to pay a good £70 for a decent gauge and £350 for a plug n play then do you mani actuator and decat all in one imo you got a fmic? The beauty of a plug n play is adding other parts it works with them to a certain extent whilst a piggy back ecu everytime you change a part need another map. Have a look in wiki section at the top for some helpful info..the magical 200bhp

But other people are saying port it, would that not be a more permanent fix and probably cheaper? Can't afford a plug and play right now anyway thanks for the link i'll have a looksie now

Just save up it's worth it make a good difference good parts for Japanese cars are expensive you get what you paid for the sooner you realise the better or you end up going around in circle's changing bits you wish you just splashed out on properly. Plenty research and you can't go wrong do it right do it once trust me haha

Well I don't mind getting the wastegate ported as long as it's not too expensive and time consuming as my glanza is my daily (risky I know lol) but i don't know who will do it near me for a start :/

Personally id get an externally wastegate manifold and run a 0.6bar spring and you should never hit fuel cut. Then get an electronic boost controller when you can and dial in a bit more boost until the fuel cut limit.

EWG setups control boost far better.

I'd buy a decent genuine boost gauge before anything I wouldn't touch the boost unless you have some sort of plug n play ecu or a piggy back especially this time of year. Save and gather parts put them all on at once imo do mani and decat actuator at once while there off I'd say a plug n play would do till next summer don't forget to buy genuine gaskets to

Fitting an aftermarket mani as things are will increase boost creep not reduce it lol.

Either fit an ext w/g or an adjustable actuator and port the int w/g.

Failing that you could restrict your air filter.

Christ all this for a decat lol fuck it I'm just gonna leave it, sounds like far too much hassle for a decat and expensive too

Even a cheap one will do to set it below fuel cut. Jus entend the rod on the actuator and then slowly bring it in until yoi reach 11/12psi. If the actuator is new you shouldnt creep too bad.

Plus i suppose if your taking your decat off to fit a blitz decat, why not port the wastegate out a little with a dremel. That way more wastegas gas can flow severely reducing creep.

It's not a new actuator but I have got a speedvision manifold on the way so I imagine that will help and I won't have to port my stock mani. I've seen a few gauges for less than a tenner so I might just grab one to set it all up with!

Even doing all that shit i bet you my next wage you'll still get boost creep and hit fuel cut.

When flooring it in the cold weather.

CT9 turbos are very poor at controlling boost, the internal wastegate penny is too samll and even when ported out they are not that much better.

Thats why so many people used to run FCDs because its the quick fix for not hitting fuel cut.

Eugh I can never win! Any ideas on what to do then? (on a limited budget by the way)

Not really mate wouldn't risk it best to get a boost gauge in to keep an eye on things

Yeah it's probably a wise investment, how much do they go for? Don't wanna spend much on gauges yet

You got a boost gauge ? Just adjust it ever so slightly until you get the desired boost level

Nope, is there any other way of seeing what boost I'm at without one?

Get an adjustable actuator and run boost level below fuel cut

Funny you should say that I've just bought a HKS actuator, now I've just gotta figure out how to use it

Possibly I found I hit fuel cut more when I removed the standard air box

Ah feck, from what I know fuel cut isn't that easy or cheap to get round safely either

Hi mate , for £895 do you get the glanza bootlid, rear bumper and headlights included?

Yep that's right, sorry I only just saw this!

Hi basically I've just got a blitz decat for my pretty much standard glanza, would installing the decat make it boost creep and boost cut like a bitch? If so what do I do to stop it?

Thanks

Here's the difference buddy

thats it mate

next time when you under your car look if there is a lump of metal bolted to the gearbox right hand side

on a normal gearbox the shaft enters the gearbox at the lenght of the sandwish plate

on a oem lsd the shaft is shorter and slots in to a lump of metal thats bolted there between the shaft and box ( viscous coupling )

if your unsure upload a pic of urs wel tel you

Aaaah I see, thanks guys I'll have a look next time im underneath

the 1 on the flywheel

if so its for oem lsd box idrees sels them on his site

Yeah I can see the flywheel from under the car and shit if I have an LSD that will be a bonus!

This it? http://id-workz.co.uk/toyota/starlet/starlet-glanza-ep91/drivetrain/oe-genuine-gearbox-sandwich-plate-oem-lsd