Mike84

Engine getting very close to fitting now , happy days 

Sorted out light weight alternator setup , decided to revert to fitting a new water pump . As I originally had a blanking plate fitted and was going to use a electric water pump.  But time restraints mean I've reverted to the original setup for now.

Custom alternator mount 

Managed to fit new thermostat and sealed on water housing along with new MJC coolant pipes 

Fitted my newly powder coated modified seat base for the final time and couldn't resist laying new belts in place for a look

Then cleaned up fuel tank with wire wheel and treated with rust killer before resealing with stonechip . I then fitted my new walbro high flow pump and modded fuel tank breather to run up filler neck with one way valve rather than running to front of car.(as the carbon canister is ditched along with steel breather pipe to front)

Getting close now 

These 3 wires will then need terminated to match your sub harness you all ready made to coils . So terminal 6 you added to 26 pin plug will control coils 1 &4 leaving terminal 19 to control coils 2 & 3 (ecu signal / trigger ). Live wire bridged into original thick black / white will match sub harness supplying 12v to terminals 3 of k20 coils.

This leaves the jumper terminals in the Me221 ecu to be bridged with solder only one labelled ign C & ign D . Please ignore the fact I bridged B as it is now unsoldered as distributor uses this pin.

PLEASE do not connect coils and ecu without contacting Motorsport electronics first as ecu settings need changed before connecting sub harness or ecu will be damaged

Hope this helps 

Next you will need to add terminals to the ecu 26 pin plug if like me you want to be able to revert back to original coil with distributor and leads / original ecu if needed. The ME221 starlet ecu has 4 ignition drivers ign A being used for standard coil leaving ign B C & D . Ign B however already has a wire (white wire to distributor) so this needs to be left leaving ign C & D . So this is what I used these are pins 6 & 19 of the 26 pin ecu plug see below 

This plug

Once these have been added I run them in loom exiting beside original coil plug

This leaves the coil live which I spliced into original coil live thick black / white

Thick Red wire is what i added

You will need to make a sub harness for the coil on plugs the earths can be all linked together , pin2 earths these direct to the cylinder head there is a handy threaded mate hole beside inlet.

For my setup I wired the ecu signal /trigger wires pin 1 for wasted spark . Meaning coils cylinder 1 & 4 trigger wire are linked together and coils cylinder 2 & 3 are linked. Pin 3 is coil live which can be looped together also which is supplied from original coil live. So this should leave you with 3 wires to terminate into a 3 pin plug like this 

This is how the harness looks partially done

Thought I would add a Little how too guide for coil on plug with the motorsport electronics Starlet ep91 ME221 Ecu.

This is how I did it with the idea being you can still use the same loom to run on standard ecu / distributor and lead setup if needed. I found it pretty difficult to find info on this conversion and hope it helps anyone wanting to do the same.

Firstly I will be using Honda ep3 k20 3 wire coil on plugs ( you will need a boss welded or bonded to rocker cover to secure these down) 

The 3 wires to these are wired as follows

You will need these also

I started by removing all the high tension parts from the distributor , followed by fitting one of these from wickedep racing

10 hours ago, maddox710 said:

Very impressive work Mike

Cheers

I'm trying to simplify wiring and remove unnecessary items 

Well after taking a week off from doing the car , due to me losing motivation I needed a break but ready for the final push

Managed to finish throttle body and reassembled with new screws and gaskets I tapped it internally to block cold fast idle as i know these give issues and removed unwanted internal thermostat . 

Then turned my attention to coil on plugs first of all I terminated all wires for coil pack plugs and sussed out routing . Due to the fact the injection is batch fired on these starlets I decided to wire these as wasted spark rather than sequential. After more discussions with Matt from (motorsport electronics me221 Ecu) . Due to me still wanting my loom to be compatable with original ecu and distributor, I have had to unsolder ignB jumper as this is for distributor white wire and might cause damage if not cut and reterminated for coil pack use. I have then added new pins to ecu 26 pin plug in pins 19 and 6 which are empty originally to use to fire coils 1&4 together and 2&3 . Then instead of cutting plug off original coil wires I have traced live wire back loom and spliced in another live wire which will be terminated in another 3 pin plug along with new wires from ecu (hope that all makes sense) . So original distributor and coil wires are untouched to allow to revert back to distributor at any time with just ecu settings change. 

This week seems to have been slow going but slowly getting there. I've been concentrating on getting the engine pieced together. Involving sorting out manifold/ downpipe with heatwrap not my favouirite and fitting for the final time. Also remote oil sender kit was fitted with original sender for oil light and additional pressure sender (note original oil sender is 1/8 bspt) same as Subaru. Thanks to help on Facebook I managed to order and fit the correct an6 adapters for my zisco fuel rail (an6 - 7/8 UNF 14 tpi) not convinced they will seal first time. I also sourced a new 4efe single multi v pulley which has rubber damping also as wasn t happy with my toothed setup. Finally I've stripped and blanked off fast idle thermostat under throttle bodie just needs painted

12 hours ago, rob_bower said:

12 hours ago, rob_bower said:

Great build, keep up the work. 

Cheers trying to keep motivated 

Well been tidying up loose ends and trying to keep everything as light as possible.  Unfortunately I have to have working front electric Windows. But I decided to ditch all original module and rewire with these little match box sizes controllers which work a treat! Then began on hopefully my last bit of wiring

Due to me wanting to run coil on plugs with the me221 ecu , I had to bridge the jumpers on the ecu board for the extra ignition drivers which involved a soldering  iron . After speaking to Matt at motorsport electronics I was a lot more confident in what needed done for this. There will need to be wires added to ecu plug for this but I'm planning on using the redundant air con solenoid  wiring and un-pinning it into the correct pins on ecu plug. I am running honda k20 3 wire smart coils which have 3 connections consisting of

1. Ign 12v +ve 

2. Ground to rocker cover

3. Ecu control

Then lastly I've had my Wepr downpipe modified with extra bosses for EGT and a wideband lambda

Well a weak moment on eBay means I know have another multi gauge in the form of a 3.2" LCD zada tech system. I had one previously in another starlet and it's a great piece of kit. This one displays oil pressure , fuel pressure , boost and oil temp . I have managed to mount it in the drivers air vent after some f@#**ng about . So centre display will be used for egt temp , Batt voltage and lambda 

Awesome 

How have you got on against the competition? Our class is flooded with fast Clio s 

1 hour ago, GordR said:

Great build Mike,

Which class are you going to run 

Cheers getting there.

I will be running in the Scottish hillclimb/sprints class A2 road cars 1400cc to 2000cc 

Cheers 

Been a productive week , started by fitting modded wiring loom back onto flocked dash. Then proceeded to fit dash along with all clocks etc. Replaced steering wheel along with a snap off boss. Everything seemed to fall into place so ended up making up a carbon radio blank to mount my delta dash happy days 

Reattached battery and engine bay wiring to check I hadn't cut out too much and luckily everything still works 

Although  front wipers didn't work when I first fitted everything . Turned out to be a faulty wiper switch !

Cheers 

Still trying to remember where everything goes ! But dash bar , heater box all back in . Just modded original pedals with some skateboard grip tape.

Small update slowly coming together , note to self headlings are a nightmare to refit 

Rear light wiring loom reffited along with the majority of rear plastics 

Finally get to bolt it back together now that the interior is painted 

On 07/01/2018, 12:25:08, Calum122 said:

Latest update involves removal of the complete wiring loom inside and engine bay. Also engine has been removed complete with gearbox to allow prep before the new engine is fitted. Hopefully next week should see interior painted to allowing the refit to begin

7 hours ago, 5e colin said:

Those disks look weak on the face ( 4x100) hope they won't snap under emergency braking

Cool parts tho I like

1 hour ago, Gainzy said:

That's where the hills come in haha

I understand what your saying time will tell , my theorie is the clamping force of sandwiching the disc between the hub and wheel face will add to the strength , well here is hoping 

Lol the problem there is usually barriers between them hills 

7 hours ago, Calum122 said:

You made your own rear disc?

Looking really nice bud!

My mates made custom rear hubs to fit pitbike rear discs too 

Finally got my safety devices rear cage fitted 

Wasn't the best fitting cage I've had which was disappointing to say the least. However I got there in the end , now time to strip rest of soundeadining and get floor painted 

10 hours ago, akyakapotter said:

Looking good would love to see pics of the rear set up fitted as we all no starlet rear disc brakes suck big time.

Cheers nick 

Cheers

I will upload more pics once I have progressed with them further. Could be a bit of trial and error unfortunately not a very cheap alternative but mega light

23 hours ago, Broony said:

Nice Mike!! Can you supply these>? would love a set on my WMS kit.

I cover aberdeneshire with work, would love to have a look at how its coming on.

Keep up the good work!

Cheers 

I probably could , but not sure what price and wouldn't machine out holes between wheel studs until I have trailed them for a while .