elikhan

Dunno if this is any good to you bro but had this bookmarked for when i finally get round to fiddling with some wires

https://www.scribd.com/doc/406445784

Complete ep91 wiring diagram allegedly have a look through that and see if it helps! 

Recently started reviving a Glanza I've had sat around for over three years... I'll be updating this regularly with old and new pictures and doing a write up as I go along... 

1AO Sunroof model Glanza... No original paperwork so no idea when it was imported...

Fitted with what i believe are the original recaro LX-C(?) seats and front door cards. 

No rears unfortunately so if anybody has access to some give me a shout. 

Genuine starlet rear strut brace with all plastics still in good nick 

TRD gear knob and gaitor in also surprisingly good nick. 

*MPH clocks of some sort with genuine TRD carbon effect surround and blue dials (yes the coolant one flickers on and off its bloody annoying but I'll live with it for now) 

*Carving Stark 1 wheels made by Work which its sitting on currently.

Absolute bargain on eBay.. Not sure how many of these sets are in country but not many at all... Be very interested to know if anybody has seen a set.

Got in touch with a dude in NYC as well who's traced the original backing of the Stark logo and got it saved digitally as a file so before refurb I'll be getting some of those printed to place exactly where the faded outline of the logo is sitting and then lacquer over them to preserve their history. 

*Standard CT9 externally gated off an ancient zisco ramshorn manifold and a random decat downpipe i scrounged off my other starlet. 

*2.5in custom exhaust (Big up Snails_ep91) and AEM wideband gauge. 

*Tein Control Master coilovers which will be getting the EDFC treatment next month...

Got a link in Tein who's sourcing me a set of m14 motors from Japan as I accidentally bought a brand original silver edfc controller but it consists of m10/m12 motors....little bit small maybe 😂😂😂.

*Genuine (I believe) Varis front bumper. 

(The bodywork isn't amazing but not so bad for its age... Serious lacquer peel on the bonnet and some dings etc which are far too obvious on a silver car to be ignored....better get saving for a blow over 😂😂😂) 

198k on the clock and bloody mint underneath 

Uploaded some random photos from a few weeks back just to get it started....Will take some decent ones at some stage soon. 

Would love to meet some of you in the near future so you might see me about! 

Cheers for having a look! 

I'm also very interested in these if Parker doesn't take them.

PM'd

I'm after a very good condition pulley for my forged starlet build so I can get my bottom end balanced and get on with building the bloody thing! 

Must not be chipped or damaged if at all possible.

hollaaaaaaa

Did mine this evening, put a cusco lsd in my box. Reverse selector was an absolute f*cker and bell housing required each bolt back in to pull in where it fitted down again snug...apart from that the actual removal and refitting of the LSD is easy enough. Excited to see how it performs! 

Sick bit of kit that! I'm also interested

As title suggests, I'm building a fully forged lump with a knife edged crank and I already have a Fidanza lightened flywheel, but now looking at clutch options...I can only really see that the options for a decent clutch set up are to buy an ACT clutch and mate it with the fly or just go spend the money on a ORC.

I am getting the whole bottom end balanced once I figure out which clutch to use but I would love to be able to make this thing as revvy as possible..

Opinions? 

Did you ever sell this?

Hi mate contact me as I'm coming past Hemel today and pretty interested

Wow that's a clean looking set! Where'd you find them!?

12 hours ago, ste91 said:

I'm after some seat rails to fit a Glanza, can collect if not too far from the west midlands, don't need to be fancy ones some standard ones that have been cut off from the seats are fine.

Hutchy has some in the For Sale section mate.

Some people are actually idiots!!!!

saviour!

Noticed mine was looking a bit mullered and in the process of complete forged build.

Someone send me a nice clean one please...

Anybody know the part number for 0.25 Taiho bearings? Asked the dealer but they just gave me MK1/MK2/MK3 options and couldn't tell me measurements/if they could supply undersize without a part no.

Toyota only as far as i'm aware. Had mine changed two years ago under warranty from the company who reconditioned the box. £400 something total from what I recall!! Best to try find some used one from one of the lads off here/ebay

I'd also like to have experiences from people that reconditioned glanza boxes, mine was apparently fully recond. before I bought it however 3rd was never right from the start, gotta have that shift technqiue to stop the crunch.

Thanks!!!

Didn't even realise there was a proper club membership, for the cost of a coffee I had to cop oneof those straight up! 

So after lurking these forums for a fair while (enough time to go through two sets of standard pistons to be precise!) i've decided i'd become fully immersed in the starlet scene and of course their engines, making the brave decision to go fully forged!

His name is George, and from the day I first saw him turn up in my workshop for an MOT and service back in early 2016 I knew I had to have him! My first jap car in a long list of cars, but seriously the most fun car i've ever driven. Never fails to put a smile on my face and without a doubt will make me sweat everytime I put my foot down!

I'm gonna be editing this as time goes on to reflect how he was when I first got him and the things i've done since then (photographer by nature means my images are spread all over the fkn place...!)

Here's a nice photo of how he looks after a clean up though...

And here he is present day looking sad as f!ck..

After chewing through two sets of ringlands on piston no.3 within the space of less than two years, his time has come to be fully forged. I understand this process takes time so he will be fitted with some standard pistons to be able to move around in and out of the booth, etc while I build up a new block with a freshly recond. head and all the bells and whistles I can afford. I want to try and prove within this build thread that you don't need a crazy budget to be able to build something that lasts and reaches decent horsepower.

This is my first ever engine build so I'm really excited to get stuck in and learn a shit ton along the way!

I bought a real nice block off a guy down in Bristol yesterday. It's from a project some of you may have seen which went terribly wrong. The block was rehoned and notched by the Rob down at PEC so I've been assured the quality of the work carried out is one hundred and ten percent. A set of forged pistons added to the final deal made it not only sweet but means I have been able to avoid doing work on the block currently sat in the car and it can be put on a stand to spend some decent time with. 

Also managed to pick up a freshly reconditioned head the same day from a friendly geezer in Taunton! Just been skimmed and had new valves and perfect to use on my new build!

Was a mission with me and my misses in my ep3 daily (over 4hrs one way including traffic not included services stops) but well worth it!

More updates tomorrow!!

E.

I'm located in Milton Keynes mate and about to take on my first fully forged build, so depending how my own goes I might be in the position to help out with another one if you don't find someone to do it!

Or if not I could always sell you my soon-to-be spare bottom end and head

Looking for a single SCAT rod to replace one that spun a bearing if anyone had the same or similar calamity and wants rid of the ones that survived...

EDIT - Will take a full set of forged rods too, someone come be my saviour!!

MOT certificates should always be accompanied by an emissions print out - pass or fail.

I'm an MOT tester myself and provided you have a valid MOT you can legally drive the car away,...the new MOT does not override it's existing MOT provided you test before the expiry date. You can test the vehicle up to 28 days before it's expiry to give you enough time to sort any issues out and any remaining time is added to your new MOT after re-test.

It's a big problem in the motor trade that MOT stations regularly try to rip customers off due to emissions or brake tester "results", I saw one the other day failed by Halfrauds on "Exhaust emitting high level of blue smoke" or similar, quoted new DPF or catalytic for $$$$$$...guess what...flew through a diesel test in my unit, and went out the door without a single advisory too.

MOT stations take the piss.

No need for discouragement apologies, I know how cars can be.

Yeah I did a ringland on my piston (no.3 as always), have my own unit/ramps/tools and everything is good in terms of gaskets, leads, turbo. etc as it wasn't rebuilt that long ago. I just acquired a good set of pistons from a guy off here last time I rebuilt but obviously 1 bar of boost without management really fucked everything up within a year.

I want to forge ideally (seen a set of pistons and scat rods and the block can easily be dropped out for notching and reboring.) however the cost my engiiner has quoted me to do everything comes to roughly around £450, plus the parts.

I'm only running roughly 200bhp however the cost of 4 new pistons from Toyota plus the skim, gaskets, etc almost comes to £1000, so i figure realistically for the extra wong on parts I can forge and make plans to map later, and do the rest of the work in my unit to save myself money.

Sorry to hijack thread, gotta love Glanza woes...