myweestar5

53 minutes ago, TrisK said:

I mean they don't run a full interior 

Oh yeah I forgot about track car modification! I presume that’s what you mean by some don’t run a full interior! My aftermarket exhaust isnt as loud as I’d like it to be sometimes and I considered changing it in the past but I’ll have to do with what I have for the moment. So what’s the problem with going stock OE pump again? Are they too expensive with main dealer as most parts are? What’s the correct size of Walbro pump to match the OE stock pumps ratings?

4 minutes ago, TrisK said:

I think most people running a walbro have stripped their car

so thats where the noisy claims are coming from

 

I found mine hard to hear with the engine running with an after market exhaust with a full interior

When you say stripped their car, what do you mean exactly or why are they stripping their car?

On 8/29/2018 at 10:24 AM, TrisK said:

A Walbro isnt loud with rear seats tbh

I would like to think that those who say the walbro is noisy would have everything fitted the way is should be before making that claim. But the thought did cross my mind why there were so many people buying walbro and why so many people claiming there noisy. Are people saying there noisy when bench tested/before the seats are refitted? 

I would expect a certain level of sound proofing from the foam type material the car seats are made from so it would be nice to know what the real issue is here? Seats not fitted/van conversion(no sound proofing)/or just some noisy pumps from bad bearings or insides for some reason?

On 8/28/2018 at 7:46 PM, Flaminsam said:

I’ve been using an APS pump for my car and not had many issues. They also run upto 80psi fuel pressure if needed. Not too expensive at around £50 new. 

Is APS a brand of pump? You say not many issues, did it give you any issues? Are they quieter than walbro and sorry for all the questions but from a starting point I should really have asked what is the standard OE pumps psi rating?

Cheers pal, yeah it was laid up for long time but i was not expecting to see that much corrosion on it. How would one check for excessive moisture in the tank? From looking into tank while fitted to car the fuel remaining looked uniform in colour and appeared to be all the one liquid. There was no rust or corrosion that I could see on the tank but the pump was a different story altogether! Any suggestions for a replacement pump brand or type that is quiet and reliable?

1 hour ago, Calum122 said:

Oh that was just a stock image of the Googles.

Ah right well I still don’t think mine should be so rusty and corroded although I might still get some use out of it. The tank seems in good codition. If I do need to replace this pump do you or does anyone know which are the best pumps to go for?

I can’t recall mine being noisy and I’ve heard of people using a Walbro pump but I don’t want a noisy pump.

Thanks again Calum122 for the help 

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Thanks pal. Yeah that’s the bit yeah. Only the one in your pic looks a bit different to mine and mine is sooo much more shiny than yours! (Not!) (See pic below) Considering how rusty and corroded mine is I think I would be better with a whole new pump but if I could get her up and running for a while I could work on a few other bits and I am guessing the pump could last another while if I cleaned it up inside and out. That’s if I can get a new sock like in your pic. What you think? 

On 8/20/2018 at 11:43 AM, Calum122 said:

 You should hear the fuel pump prime when you turn the ignition on and off.

 

I've not heard anything about easy start, unless there is something mechanically wrong with the car and a forced start would cause it to do more damage.

All I wanted to know is if there was a combustible mix, would the car start. Obviously it won't run. But would it start.
 

If it starts then you know it's not an electrical issue and that it sounds like a fueling issue.

 

I started my car having been on the drive for three years with the same stale fuel. After priming the engine it start first turn of the key.

 

But it's not unheard of for the fuel to gum up.

It certainly developed a misfire under load, but fresh fuel soon cleared that.

Calum122 Sorry for delay in reply but didn’t have much time earlier in the week to look at the car. I have a bit more time now and I done the test with easystart and she fired up and ran for a second or two then died. I did it again and same result.

As I mentioned earlier I can’t hear fuel pump prime. I’ve even bridged the Fp and B+ terminals in diagnostic plug and still can’t hear fuel pump run with ignition on IG2. I opened fuel line at the rail while doing this and fuel only dribbles out like it’s not under any pressure. 

I’ve checked for voltage on the plug going to the fuel pump (i believe) under the rear seats. While I held my hand on the fuel pump relay and cranked the engine I felt the relay click only when cranking (not priming) I get around 11volts on the blue/white wire and it goes to just over 12v for a few seconds after I stop cranking and then I hear and feel the fuel pump relay click again and the voltage goes out to 0v.

The only thing is I’m not really sure which wire does what at that plug and socket but I think that it must be blue/white for power to fuel pump. I’m now thinking it has to be the fuel pump that’s gave up. Can you or anyone tell me how to test the fuel pump or which wires are for what do I can finish ruling it out??

Do you know if it would seize up and not make noise if it was gummed up with sticky residue from old petrol??

———UPDATE———

Ok I’ve found that my fuel pump wasn’t working after bringing 12v direct to it from battery. I removed it and it looks awful with rust and corrosion. I tried it again outside the car and same result until I gave the motor casing a few light taps of a hammer to see if it was stuck/seized up inside. It worked the pump ran as I held it in my hand and it kept running until I discounted the wires.

The only problem is now I notice the little mesh screen type filter at the bottom of the pump is damaged. I think I touched it gently at some stage and it kind of fell apart like the screen caved in which will now not act as a filter anymore. Does anyone know if this is needed, can it be replaced or could I fit an in-line filter on the fuel line somewhere else instead?

On 8/20/2018 at 11:43 AM, Calum122 said:

You should hear the fuel pump prime when you turn the ignition on and off.

 

I've not heard anything about easy start, unless there is something mechanically wrong with the car and a forced start would cause it to do more damage.

All I wanted to know is if there was a combustible mix, would the car start. Obviously it won't run. But would it start.
 

If it starts then you know it's not an electrical issue and that it sounds like a fueling issue.

 

I started my car having been on the drive for three years with the same stale fuel. After priming the engine it start first turn of the key.

 

But it's not unheard of for the fuel to gum up.

It certainly developed a misfire under load, but fresh fuel soon cleared that.

Calum122 Sorry for delay in reply but didn’t have much time earlier in the week to look at the car. I have a bit more time now and I done the test with easystart and she fired up and ran for a second or two then died. I did it again and same result.

As I mentioned earlier I can’t hear fuel pump prime. I’ve even bridged the Fp and B+ terminals in diagnostic plug and still can’t hear fuel pump run with ignition on IG2. I opened fuel line at the rail while doing this and fuel only dribbles out like it’s not under any pressure. 

I’ve checked for voltage on the plug going to the fuel pump (i believe) under the rear seats. While I held my hand on the fuel pump relay and cranked the engine I felt the relay click only when cranking (not priming) I get around 11volts on the blue/white wire and it goes to just over 12v for a few seconds after I stop cranking and then I hear and feel the fuel pump relay click again and the voltage goes out to 0v.

The only thing is I’m not really sure which wire does what at that plug and socket but I think that it must be blue/white for power to fuel pump. I’m now thinking it has to be the fuel pump that’s gave up. Can you or anyone tell me how to test the fuel pump or which wires are for what do I can finish ruling it out??

Do you know if it would seize up and not make noise if it was gummed up with sticky residue from old petrol??

Well there’s a problem then, cause if u say I should hear the fuel pump prime when turning ignition on and off, well I don’t hear that so there must be no power getting there or could the pump be knackered?

Its a good point you make to rule out if it’s fuel related problem or electrical. I think I will try the easy start. My car has been lying up longer than yours unfortunately but hopefully it nothing too serious.

I have been thinking of stale fuel being the problem originally as the petrol seemed to smell funny. I’m glad yours up and running again and got your misfire sorted out. My worst fear is having to change the whole fuel system if it’s petrol turned to varnish or sticky stuff causing blockage. 

Ive already checked all the fuses from the beginning and all are ok but I haven’t checked relays if there’s any that could cause the fuel pump not to run. I will try the above as soon as I can, but might not be for a day or two, bit busy at moment. Thanks for your thoughts on this I appreciate it, I will let u know the result. 

In the mean time if u have any other suggestions don’t be afraid to send them on, I like to stack up on ammunition to fire as much as I can into troubleshooting an engine so I can spend a few hours checking things when there.

Thanks for your reply Calum122, I was going to try that but someone said it’s dangerous to use easy start on engines or it could cause more harm than good. Do u know if there’s any truth in this? 

I feel there should be pressurized fuel coming out of rail when opened after cranking the engine. Do u know how I can check if the fuel pump is working as it should? 

Hi all, can anyone please tell me why my GT Turbo won’t start after lying up for some time. It has spark and I opened the fuel line on right hand side at rail and there is petrol there but it just drips a little and doesn’t seem to be constantly running or under any pressure. All help or advice greatly appreciated. Also does anyone know where I can get a copy of the engine workshop manual for this 4E-FTE engine as it could save a lot of time trying to type up stuff and possibly not getting any closer to finding solutions. Thanks in advance

Pics of all round the car and engine bay pics would be a good start mate

Automatic or manual ?

To be honest, with GT's, you will get another one.

There are plenty of them about, if yours is bone stock then it's not a bad idea to sell.

If you had painstakingly spent years building the perfect EP, I'd be more inclined to say keep it.

If its an unmolested gtt keep it there cheap as fuck to run tax insurance petrol great ol sporty eco car with boost I went from glanza v to a dc2 type r hated it then went gtt there just to much fun ha ha

If its an unmolested gtt keep it there cheap as fuck to run tax insurance petrol great ol sporty eco car with boost I went from glanza v to a dc2 type r hated it then went gtt there just to much fun ha ha

If its an unmolested gtt keep it there cheap as fuck to run tax insurance petrol great ol sporty eco car with boost I went from glanza v to a dc2 type r hated it then went gtt there just to much fun ha ha

I've had the GT from march and can honestly say I've not noticed any difference in running costs, great on fuel and insurance was the same when I swapped from my na Glanza rep. I may go through more front tyres but lol

Thanks for all the replies. I unfortunately cant upload pics at the moment but t's a manual 5 speed gearbox and yes the economics is the one thing I forgot to mention, it's good bang for buck in a petrol car, but not when you have no job and insurance companies here are pure thieves all working together to form a plot in my opinion. I went straight from that to a 1.9 diesel van as I had not much choice and there was some difference on the pocket when funds are already low. I wish I knew an insurance company that could provide a fair cover price for this car here and then maybe things may be a bit different.

It's pretty basic with the modifications. It has a Toms body kit, 17" Rs5 alloys, standard suspension currently but not preffered, rear windows tinted, genuine semi bucket seats, TRD steering wheel and gear knob, HKS turbo timer, HKS fuel cut defender, Excedy short shifter, dump valve, mushroom type air breather, quad lights, 6x9 rear pioneer speakers and thats about it. I had other plans for it but they never happened for me. It would be nice car for a vintage car too with the cheap tax and insurance benefits. I did not believe there were many left but then I was not really looking in other countries! Are they really still a common car in the UK? What about Japan or other countries?

Hello to all starlet owners, I'm a newbie here but have had my GT Turbo for a long time. It may seem silly but I've been scratching my head about this problem for some time. I unfortunately cant afford to run it due to some personal issues which have also caused employment issues. Its a 1995 Starlet Gt Turbo and is one of a kind in it's looks and condition.

At the same time there is not much extras or extra modifications done to it just some basics. I have had people asking me to sell it but it was never really my intentions. I still want to get it back on the road but cant see it happening anytime soon unfortunately. I miss it a lot!! Its cruel, but anyway I feel I may not have much options but to just let it go, but on the other hand I'm thinking it may not be so wise to let it go just yet as they are getting rare on the market, and I know this one is one that stands out. Can anyone advise me on what the best thing is to do in this situation?

I appreciate all help, advice or suggestions!