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Posts posted by JxckGlanza
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Nice to see the forum living on a bit
any chance of selling me that steering wheel haha?
enjoy the car
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Piggyback are old and dated. Engine management can’t change the whole car so much more responsive with standalone. Stick out the extra few quid it’s worth it. @RobSR can supply and/or fit/map Haltech, link, syvecs and other ecus.
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You can convert the stock dizzy to 12-1. And remove the cam signal. And/or try replacing the dizzy cable with a shielded wire earthed only at the ecu end. Give me a message if you want any help
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Does sounds like grounds issue. Have you got to the end of it yet?
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22 hours ago, Sam44 said:
Looking good.
Hopefully will get mapped this year 😂
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21 hours ago, glanzadude said:
Nice build, can I ask where did you buy the Me221 ecu and how much was it?
Directly off Motorsport electronics dude, £695
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2 hours ago, ste91 said:
I'm looking at the same but 550cc, did they plug straight in or need adapters?
And were they a direct fit to the fuel rail?Direct fitment bud, connectors are not the same, i crimped new connectors in, you can get adaptors if you dont want to do that so can be plug and play
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On 6/24/2020 at 7:52 PM, mycars12 said:
Was trying to give you my whatsapp so i could help you out. Might have to modify the map a bit. The hardest part is usually getting the base timing right then the proper settings and firing order.
Check that your timing is spot on at 10 degrees according to what its showing in the system.
After that check your firing order to see what it is. Most are 1342. Also they had a notorious problem of not listing the displacement properly under their maps
4efte is 1331cc and 5e should be 1497cc
Also try and check the tooth logger to see if you are getting any noise or any errors.
Since you are cop you will be using batch fire instead of seq I believe.
Any specific questions you have about your setup?
Yeah done the usual checks like. Think it’s just there base map, couple lads had same sorta problem.
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Yep, its a big struggle these days. I know fiske can supply reps or there doing there last round of reps.
just keep an eye out on Facebook thats your best bet in all these groups, EP82 parts are really rare these days.
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Private messaged 👍🏼
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Unreal, dont think ive seen one this well built before 😃
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4 hours ago, mycars12 said:
Are you using the me221 basemap?
Send a private message
Doesnt let me message you mate , yeah its the base map seems like theres a common issue within the map somewhere
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For anyone information, i went with bosch ev14 620cc from CP fuels. Was about £250 and even came with the offsets. I replugged the factory harness
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What do you mean checked your first tooth mate?
Stuggling to work out what it is atm.
thought it might be map? It’s not loosing sync. I am also using the Dizzy. -
Sound anything like this🤣
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11 hours ago, jellybaby said:
Can ya let us know how that tps works feller as I looking to get me for build i be doing soon as he wants auto tps etc.
I seen the kit just don’t no it it reliable
As of now, it’s been easy to install and set up no issues at all. I believe it’s actually a BMW tps but I’m not 100% I could be totally wrong. So don’t quote me but yeah so far so good.
I spoke to my mapper and he said they have worked fine for fair few for him.
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7 hours ago, mycars12 said:
With the tunerstudio filters applied my car is running fine now on the microsquirt ecu. No errors for now. Just used to stock distributor wires from the harness. The filter was enough to reduce the signal noise and not cause any misfires at all.
Issue is fixed
Previously was it misfiring? And when?
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10 hours ago, 5T4R7ET N/A said:
How did you wire in the k20 coils? A little explanation would be nice. Im got k20 coils and me221 as well.
Yeah bud so I made my own harness. You want a 4<1 splice for your switches 12v and 4<1 for the ground. I then did a 2<1 splice for cycl 1&4 and 2&3 (wasted spark). The two signal cables went out on pin 22 and 18. The 12v was used from pin 1 on coil pack and grounded to the engine.
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On 5/7/2020 at 10:27 AM, mycars12 said:
Replace the wring from the distributor? I was making a jumper harness to run from the oem harness to the microsquirt. Replacing the wires would sort of defeat the purpose of the jumper harness. Would the only other way be to convert it to a 12-1 by grinding teeth off?
If I'm not mistaken the factory harness already has it shielded?
*Edit*
Replaced with shielded cables from distributor in the bay straight to the ECU and still have the noise issue. Will shave 2 teeth off the distributor and see if that remedies my problem.
I also had this problem. I had to shave 2 teeth , remove cam signal and a shielded cable ok now this even with COP
Electrical Gremlins
in Electronics
Posted
Orrrr I didn’t read it properly lol. You may need a resistor to use the led lights.