TimD

K20 it, I really want to K20 mine.

Need to find someone to make it fit.

You need to do some proper investigation as to what's causing it!!

Do a compression test first and foremost, don't just replace piston rings for the sake of it.

Did the turbo look like it had failed, did you even check? What's the inside of your boost pipes looking like, there could be oil in them? There are so many things it could be.

I found it a real struggle to get the alternator belt tight enough, had to have a friend push down on it whilst I tightened it up.

Will you be at Croft in this on the 18th?

Fully understood but that is not the case here. Engine was running again 2 hours after the head was removed.

The only difference is an actual athena gasket used this time.

And it has just completed a 160 mile journey with no issues vs the 10 mile and few hours on the last gasket

Still going strong?

Almost straight on at Adenauer Forst, almost.

If you've got deep pockets you can get Project Mu pads for these as well.!

Interesting, thanks for taking the time to reply.

I don't know what route to go down, or whether or stay standard rods and pistons or whilst it's already in bits go forged.

The car is a track car, it is never driven on the road, not even to and from events.

Once rebuilt it'll have a TF035 turbo fitted, and will run relatively low boost of around 15 psi.

Have you actually bought anything from Keri? Or are you expecting quick answers to stupid questions?

thanks for the response richard

over the years i've seen many builds go for mls gaskets...many of them were relatively moderate/mild builds too...but just wanted to use mls because of being advised to or "hearing" they are the "best"....to this day i have mixed views on mls gaskets...,especially certain brands and the number of knock off floating about

i dont think your slight cr difference will make any notable difference...the build should be safe once tuned properly

personally, i'm a big fan of the genuine/toyota stock headgasket UNLESS a proper mls is absolutely needed for those special projects and the supporting work is done to accommodate it

When should you be thinking about going MLS instead of OEM?

Because people don't often work for free?!

For 55mm hub cars, you can buy Yaris discs, I have a set of these, J hook type.

http://www.mtecbrakes.com/brake-discs/toyota/yaris-06-12/yaris-1-33-vvt-i-01-09-03-12/front-brake-discs/mtec1610.html

My setup is the 275x22 kit

As for pads, you're looking for pads that fit a Wilwood Dynalite caliper, for example, the part number for EBC Yellows is DP4001R: http://www.ebcbrakeshop.co.uk/wilwood--dynalite-cotter-pin-use-7112-ebc-yellowstuff-brake-pads-dp4001r_p1157346.htm

I use Ferodo DS1.11 pads in my calipers, I buy them from Circuit Supplies, I can't remember the exact code for the pads, I do have a box at my unit though will try and remember to make a note of the part number next time I'm there.

I'm pretty certain it's this one: http://ecat.ferodoracing.com/car-racing/brake-pads/FRP502

Looks like you can get DS2500 and DS3000 as well.

When I got my kit I was very keen to be able to buy parts for it away from WMS, just in case they disappeared, I'm glad I did.

Not sure about anyone else, but when I ordered mine it was made very clear what I'd be receiving.

My JE gasket is/was a genuine JE item, the argument isn't whether or not they are real, it's whether or not they are up to the task, and so far a few of us have had problems. There is likely a good number of others who have had no issue with the gaskets, perhaps they are tight on tolerances? The engineering firm who did the work on my engine the second time around commented that the skim I'd had on my head previously left quite a coarse finish, and that could have caused problems as well.

All I know is I'm reluctant to buy another JE gasket, and MLS gaskets all together. It's not a cheap gig, or a quick job having engineering work carried on an engine, so I want to be certain it'll be right when I put it back together.

My JE gasket blew between 3 and 4.

Be interested to know how you get on with the Athena, be sure to keep us updated. My other thought was to try and source a cometic gasket, but if the Athena gasket proves to work well I'll just order one from IDWorkz.

Thanks.

My JE one blew in a similar fashion, sent my block away and it needed decking.

I am still a little uneasy about buying another JE gasket though.

Where did the Athena gasket come from?

If it's the thermostat, just remove it completely and sort a new one when you get home.

Sounds like an air lock to me, is your expansion bottle filling up?

It just seems like a daft thing to put in big letters on your car?

I fully understand the play on words, but there are words you can play with, and words you really shouldn't.

You need to try a bleed valve or something to see if you can get some more boost out of it.

The wastegate is doing it's job in that you aren't seeing overboost. You might no be getting .65bar, but that could be down to a tired spring.

What spring do you have in it?

The only thing that is controlling boost is the wastegate, I reckon it's your boost controller.

Surely if the wastegate wont open you'd be getting over boost?

Your car has a big RACISM sticker on it, you are aware of this, aren't you?

Are my eyes deceiving me, or do you really have harnesses mounted to your false, assumingly wooden floor?

I would hazard a guess that the best place to buy anything JDM, would be Japan, yo.