TimD

Is there anything more pointless than a 'show cage', I think not.

Has that fatigued and cracked due to vibration, or has something hit it?

My bill so far for rebuilding my standard engine is about £800, I still need a few things.

Oh yeah, my engine still isn't assembled either. It's a pile of parts on our spare bedroom floor.

The list of parts needed for an engine rebuild is endless.

Full engine gasket set

Oil pump

Water pump if you haven't changed it

Rings which will need gapping

Might as well do valve stem seals and valve clearances whilst the engine is out

New clutch and release bearing?

Cam belt kit

Plenty of oil

New head bolts

Bearings

Seals

Not sure what turbo you have, but if that's a bit of an unknown, whats 180 quid for a rebuild in the grand scheme of things?

Willing to accept realistic offers on this..

Tempted to get these for my Cooper S.. hmm, local'ish too.

You'll likely struggle on anything but noisy days, and they are few and far between.

I think I'd rather have peace of mind that I wasn't going to have any trouble, by fitting a proper exhaust, than spend the best part of £300 for 10 minutes of track time.

Nice little project is this.. Have you done away with all the factory systems then? Or do some remain for stuff like headlights, indicators, etc?

I hope to do something similar with mine, except I don't need to worry too much about factory stuff given that it isn't a road car.

Item For Sale:

Greddy E-manage Blue & EP82 Field Harness & 3 Bar MAP Sensor

Item Condition & Description:

Item is used, but is in good working condition. Some marks here and there on the case, and velcro on the bottom to keep it secure in the car. There is a map on there which worked well with my Tongs Hybrid and was mapped up to 1bar of boost, it is locked so I would suggest you have this remapped when fitted to your car. I am not responsible for any damaged caused by running the map which is on this EMB.

Price:

£250 including fees and postage in the UK - Or Nearest Offer

Pictures:

Payment & Shipping Details:

Via paypal, bank transfer or cash on collection.

Compression test followed by a sniff test should identify any headgasket related issues.

How far down the exhaust is the sensor?

I have a plug and play EMB with 3 bar map and ep82 field harness. It has a map on it as well

Not sure what your budget it is or if it'll fit but I'm looking for £350.

Will do a for sale ad on Monday

Sorry, I meant includung ECU, or just ECU on its own?

Might have missed it, and searching for ECU or Management yields bugger all..

What you going to be using to run this? Haltech with flex??

What sort of price for fitting and map?

- Emanage Blue with Field Harness for EP82 and 3 Bar Map sensor with a map for a Tongs CT9

£350? ^^

If you're spending £160 on a well used one, you might as well spend £220 on something that's brand new and without doubt a real part!

Useful, what was the problem?

- Emanage Blue with Field Harness for EP82 and 3 Bar Map sensor with a map for a Tongs CT9

- Defi Link BF Gauge setup includes all sensors and wiring for Oil Pressure, Oil/Water Temp, Boost, with Link Controller.

Any ideas on the above?

Plenty of people using them with success

It's not a fault, it's because the block and/or head weren't completely flat.

OEM Bolts are stretch bolts, you torque them up and then I think it's a 90 degree turn to stretch them, after that you leave them well alone.

Torque is what would kill these, they are meant to be pretty strong. Not sure how the internals differ from the kit used for the K20, but if you have a look on YouTube there's a K swapped MR2 with 900 'American' HP, so probably about 700 real world HP, the gearbox seems to handle it well.

Perhaps if you're chasing dyno numbers the quaife isn't for you, and at that price point, I doubt very much we'll ever find out!

If you've gone to head studs, you're presumably running ARP stuff, so you can reuse them.

If you're using OE head bolts, with an athena, then yes once they're in place then you leave them alone, they're stretch bolts after all.

It's probably prudent to check that an ARP stud/bolt is properly torqued a short while after the initial torque. In an idea world you'd probably check them after a certain amount of running, but for the 4efe that would require removing cams.

Bit of a minefield is this, and I'm sure there is some simple engine building science behind it.

Anyway, interested to find out what happens when you get it built back up, hopefully all is well and you can enjoy the car some.

You aren't paying for just a gearset though, it's a proper sequential transmission, proper motorsport stuff.. I want one! badly!

Pretty certain the price of £4650 + vat is your start point, from there you'll probably need to have it assembled, then I guess you'll need a shift mechanism, gear indicator. Then to use it properly you're going to need to have some decent management that can be programmed for flat shifts, and if it's really clever clutchless down changes with auto blip.

Money isn't an object once you've decided to spend £7k on a gearbox for a car that's worth, at most, £4k? Even with the gearbox.

You'd hope that there would be a market for used ones should you ever need to sell it, but I can't imagine it'll be easy to shift (so to speak).

Still want one.. One day.

Sure, go for it. If it doesn't fit now, you're going to have to sort something.