TimD

Would possibly be interested in the rear 1/4 windows if you'd sell separately? Can supplie glass to whoever buys the shell for free + whatever it costs for postage.

My car is solely used on track, the ds1.11 is a better pad than the 2500 and 3000.

But that's OK, don't listen to me.

I get my pads from Circuit Supplies

They're just metric bolts, you'll get one on eBay as well.

You'll have to do some searching, pretty easy to get pad diagrams and dimensions you'll then need to measure what you have.

As for pads, I really rate Ferodo DS1.11, good pad without having to spend an absolute fortune. I use them in my WMS calipers, and they work really well.

Just leave the interior in, it weighs bugger all anyway!

Does this gearbox fit?

Anyone serviced, or had someone carry out a service on their plated Kaaz LSD?

Thanks

Could be a cam seal, have you had the top part of the cover off to check?

This is from the head, the collector is actually pretty well done so I'm happy with that..

Friend of mine made his own manifold, and he had a similar problem.

He ported it out to look as follows

I'll look at doing the same before it's fitted.

I've an engine to rebuild before getting that far, so I better get on with that.

That's not really relevant to my question.

I had a turbo manifold made up, when it arrived I noticed the inside of the runners hadn't been welded smooth, and on exhaust port 4 the runner over hangs the exhaust port on the flange by a good 2mm..

As the manifold is black it's hard to get a good photo, but here are a couple..

I expected the runners to be welded both internally and externally to the head flange, and a certain amount of porting done to each exhaust port, or is that asking too much?

Anyone else had something similar, did it not bother you, am I being too pedantic?

Is the TIAL genuine? Any receipts to back it up?

If I ever end up standalone I'd be going Haltech

I'd love a 110, just a shame you can't tow with one.

Chop chop then..! ;)

I'm serious by the way, drop me a message with a price and I'll send you some cash.

Ace.. Fancy making two?

Mine catches on the rear under full compression with a passenger, worse at cadwell as you enter the mountain!

I only have a 7j wheel and 35'ish offset, you're going to struggle to use the car in anger without some wider arches.

The answer is to lop a bit off the axle and bolt it back with a shim underneath.. But I really think you're just band aiding a flawed rear beam setup, and those that have done it already, just did it because they could without backing it up with any real data.

The truth is, only a very small percentage of Starlets aren't road cars, so there simply isn't enough knowledge available to say, yes this absolutely works on track, or no it doesn't. So it really is a case of experimenting and figuring out what does and doesn't work for you..

All I know, is that my car handles really well, is fairly planted and very difficult to get it out of shape in the dry. It does suffer from a little bit of understeer, and I'm hoping with the combination of aero, a LSD rebuild, ARB adjustment and some alignment tweeks will help. But at the end of the day, it's still a FWD car, with the engine and gearbox slightly for of the front axle so it will always understeer a little.

Biggest thing any of us need, before we start fucking about underneath is seat time in the car. With coilovers, brakes and ~160whp there's not much that can keep up with a well driven EP82.

In my experience it's not needed, tyre wear / temperatures stay fairly constant across the tyre.

For a diffuser to work effectively you really need a flat floor, so air which is forced under the splitter travels cleanly to the diffuser.

Recaro Pole Positions are the comfiest bucket I've sat in fitted to a road car.

In which offset?

What is the photo of?

Any reason why you wouldn't fit a K20?

I think if I was going to all the trouble of custom mounts and what not, I'd be hard pressed to find a better engine.