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Pierros

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Posts posted by Pierros

  1. I've pre-order it and I hope to be 1000% better from all the other racing games, because after all this time waiting for its development I will be disappointed with anything less. Although I'm a fan of the series I'm afraid its a little overestimated but we will see shortly.

    I hope when I play it to make me eat my words and at the same time serve a humble-pie to my Xbox-Forza owning friend B) and then spend hours and hours of intense driving.

  2. Just checked my mail and seen it as well. Its a same cause it was quite organised with many members.

    Well translating the whole forum from dutch could be nearly impossible, but I think the Dutch paseo enthousiasts will eventually find their way here, as its one of the few European Paseo forums left....

  3. If the job is done right (I'm talking about the 4e-fte conversion) or boosting a 5e-fe/fhe you want have any problems and you'll get better performance figures easy and much more cheaper than going n/a.

    Just because the previous owner didn't know what he was doing (or had the swap done by a monkey) does mean that its not reliable.

    Generally to go full out with a 4E/5E engine doesn't worth it. Is this the blog you show the n/a starlet ? http://project-red-ep91.blogspot.com/

    If yes this project has been dumped and the owner (which is a member of UKSC) has gone for a 4e-fte.

    To answer your question in order to get the most out of a 5E you need forged internal (all balanced), upgraded bearings, massive flow work in the head, upgraded bigger valves, stiffer springs, wilder cams (and adj cam gears), very high compression (at least 12:1), ITB's, full exhaust and exh. manifold (those probably make the car impossible to pass MOT), upgraded injectors, a stand-alone ecu, lightened underdrive pulleys and lighter flywheel and various other bits to make it happen. And with all this I doubt that you can reach the 200 (at crank) figure.

  4. Hehehe the "ghetto filters" were ok for a temporary solution but now they are really shorted.

    By the way I noticed in one video that the hoses are "sucked in" when you rev. Are they silicone ones or plain rubber?

    PS Offtopic but why I'm not a Paseo Pimp member ? :lol:

  5. Thanks for the info mate.

    I'll try a slight different setup as the CBR ITB's are a little more complex (as they come from a newer bike), plus I'll use it together with a Power FC that I already have and I'm planning to install.

    I'll get my mechanic to do all the "dirty" job of course, but its good to collect in order to surpass any problems that may arise. :p

  6. Due to I'm unemployed more than 8 months the new engine progress is idle for the time being.

    But still I can make some small cheap improvements ( mad )

    This is dry carbon look interior pieces

    th_P1000396.jpgth_P1000398.jpgth_P1000406.jpg

    and some sound/heat deadening in the front doors, rear arches, rear passenger bottom and partly in the boot.

    th_IMG_3614.jpgth_IMG_3615.jpg

    th_IMG_3616.jpgth_IMG_3617.jpgth_IMG_3618.jpg

  7. Nice work there with the ITB's. I have in the self a pair to install some of my one (from a CBR600TT) when my new 5efhe motor is swapped.

    I guess the insiration came from the guy from the States that used the Triumph ones. Any more details or things he missed to mention?

  8. Well of all I prefer mine :) (which is the most "euro" style, as it has a german TTE lip :thumbsup: ).

    I'm going to add some custom subtle sideskirts in the future but I'm more performance oriented right now.

  9. Unfo few people are seriously into Paseo's. To most is just a passing "phase" and then go on to something bigger, better, faster.

    Some worth mentioning Paseo's that have exeptional style are

    Brian's (InsaneIntention) 2gen Paseo Cabrio from the States

    IMG_9939.jpg

    IMG_0789.jpg

    Rocky's from Belgium

    garage_gallery-36-1194816253.jpg

    garage_gallery-36-1194816282.jpg

    the old 2gen Blitz replica kitted Turbo Paseo from Malta (don't have pictures now).

    From the other hand performance-wise there are more than a handful of good Paseo's mainly in the US, with some bright examples in Europe (Riko's included).

  10. Thanks again Pierros. would you happen to have any pictures of how the pipe was cut. I actually had to swap two tranny bolts to make the down pipe fit (one had a bigger head than the other). It is very close right now and every once in a while when the car is at idle, I can hear it vibrating. I have gone to a couple of muffler shops but obviously not the right one because none have recomended cutting the down pipe. It's more of an annoyance but I want to get that taken care of. By the way, are you using the stock engine mounts are did you try the powerflex polyurethane ones? Do you feel there is a difference between dealer and aftermarket(non poly) mounts?

    Hey Bejie I had some photos since I installed the exhaust, but unfo I can't find them. If I do I'll upload them.

    I had reinforced the rear engine mount myself with a polyurethane glue. And I did only the rear in order to avoid any heavy vibration.

    I have been to a Glanza with Powerflex polyuretane engine mounts and they are steady as a rock, but the vibration and the rattling inside the cabin is unbearable for me!!

    I personally wouldn't recommend it. The way I did it is ok and so far I have no problom with the mounts.

    A good alternative is the TRD mounts which are made from reinforced heavy duty rubber and they do the job without so much compromise to comfort (but they cause some vibration). Of course their the most expensive solution...

  11. 2. Greek Modified EL54 Paseo - 5E-FE turbo conversion

    Here are some scans from the magazine feature (back in 2005 if I remember)

    Page01.jpgPage02.jpg

    Page03.jpgPage04.jpg

    Page05.jpgPage06.jpg

    And here is a video in action

    th_PaseoTurbo.jpg

    And a rough spec list:

    Engine

    - Garrett GT28R turbocharger

    - Ross pistons

    - Pauter rods

    - Denso 430cc/min fuel injectors

    - ARP headbolts

    - TRD headgasket

    - Apexi S-AFC II

    - Green induction

    - Custom front mount i/c

    - Oversized head valves (1mm in / 0,5mm ex)

    - Custom 304 exhaust manifold

    - Full decat exhaust 63,5mm (internal diameter)

    - Modified Glanza loom

    Suspension

    - Tein Type Flex coilovers

    - Whiteline caster/ antilift kit

    - Whiteline 24mm front ARB

    - TRD engine mounts

    - Starlet front strut brace

    - Cusco rear strut brace

    - Cusco lower arm brace

    Wheels and Brakes

    - Autostrata 16inch wheels

    - Goodyear F1 195/40/16 tyres

    - Lockheed bolt on 4piston big brake kit

    - Glanza rear disc conversion

    Interior

    - Full leather retrim

    The car since then has been upgraded almost everywhere with stand-alove ecu, more handling goods, etc , but it was written off by the owners wife before a year or so :S

  12. Well depending the code number nothing is sure, not even the dealer knows. It depends not only from the gen and year of production, but also the range. I had to make an agreement with the authorised dealer and I got both set and returned the one that I didn't use. Just for the history mine used the 34mm one.

    As for the OBX , yes it goes veeeery close to the tranny (I think it may almost contact a bolt). As for the link to the downpipe to the rest exhaust I think the shop that installed it to my car made some minor adjusting by cutting and welding (also I close the second sensor hole that the manifold has).

  13. Its been quite a while since I've made an update, so here how it will go from now on. I finally made up my mind and decided for various reasons not to go with a 4E-FTE swap and try something not so common, but in any case has been done in the past by various people in the US and various other cars around the world.

    My current 5E-FE is not in the best shape ever and it “burns” 1litre of 20/50 oil per 1000km. I’ve already changed all the external gaskets and then the valve gaskets, but with no luck. So I’ve fed up with this engine and decided to move on and get some serious power…. Which means only one thing: BOOST.

    Of course I’m running on a very restrictive budget (not too small, but not big either), so the main idea is to firstly run the 5e-fhe on a n/a form, ready to be boosted with “plug-n-play” parts. If the engine runs fine I’ll start collecting all the extra parts for the turbo conversion and I’m planning to run the whole setup with a full stock fhe for starters.

    So I’m going to proceed with the following stages:

    Stage 1: 5E-FHE SWAP

    - Cynos 1st Gen (EL44) 5E-FHE engine (to be fully serviced with Toyota overhaul kit + ARP headbolts + new piston rings + new conrod/crankshaft bearings)

    - OBX 4-2-1 exhaust manifold with full custom exhaust and OE cat

    - K&N replacement filter (already fitted and to be changed with an Apexi induction kit that I got)

    - 5e-fhe injectors

    - 5e-fhe ACIS intake manifold (with piggy-back controller ecu) and throttle

    - 4E-FTE distributor/ignition/upgrated spark plugs

    - Magnecor 7mm (blue) spark plug cables

    - EP91 Glanza engine loom and sensors (along with an ECU)

    - EP91 Glanza map sensor and tps sensor

    - Apex-i Power FC stand alone ecu with Power Commander (3plug EP91 4E-FTE model)

    - Zeitronix O2 Wideband and EGT in custom pod

    - NST ultra rare adjustable cam-gear

    - 4E-FTE (ep82) oil sump with JC Project magnetic oil sump plug

    - Grex/Trust oil filter relocator and oil cooler

    - EL54 paseo manual gearbox/transmission

    - Spec Stage 3 6puck clutch kit

    The main ingredients for the success of the whole project is finding a good engine and having proper electric installation.

    As soon as the new engine fires up, I’ll swap the oe ecu with the PFC (as the glanza one will never work right) and have it tuned by a PFC expert (which happens to be a close friend of mine). Hopefully with proper tuning and 100oct fuel (we have available in almost every gas station here) I’ll have a satisfying base to proceed and it will keep me happy for a while.

    After that I’m going to proceed like this:

    Stage 2: 5E-FHTE conversion

    - Garrett T25 turbo (or similar efficiency turbo)

    - Custom manifold

    - Custom downpipe and exhaust with 60mm internal diameter

    - Sport/Racing catalyser (200cpi)

    - Front mount custom intercooler (72x18x7) with 60mm inlet/outlet

    - Custom i/c piping (60mm) with silicon hose joints

    - Upgrated injectors (Denso/Sard 550cc high resistance top feed)

    - Sard Rising Plate Fuel Pressure Regulator

    - Sard 235 Fuel Pump

    - GReddy Type-S bov

    Optional

    - 4E-FTE custom baffled Zep spec oil sump

    - Glanza gearbox/transmission

    - Quaife ATB LSD (or other LSD)

    Comments: I already have the items in italics.

    As you have seen all the ingredients of the turbo are “plug n play” as I’ve mentioned before and can be fabricated installed with a couple of days. This is very important for me, as this is my daily driver and can’t afford to have it too long off the streets. Also being my daily driver means that it needs also to be as reliable as possible. This is why I’ll have a conservative mapping and I’m planning to work it at around 0,65-0,8 (max max) bar pressure.

    If everything goes well and as planned and see that I’m not satisfied with the car I’ll proceed furthermore going for full forged internal, lower compression and raised boost pressure.

    I’ll try to keep this thread update as it goes along, for the time being I’m collecting information (and parts) to proceed with the 1 stage of the project.

    And some photos of the parts already got ...

    So for the time being here are some parts that I gathered.

    - Cynos EL44 auto 5E-FHE engine with ACIS intake manifold

    th_08092009016.jpgth_08092009015.jpg

    - Power FC with Glanza plug-n-play harness and a new Hand Commander

    th_IMG00033-20091022-2357.jpg

    - Denso 550cc high resistance top feed injectors plus a JC Project magnetic oil sump plug.

    th_IMG00037-20091023-0000.jpg

    - Zeitronix Zt-2 Wideband with LCD display and extra EGT sensor and custom pod (I'll be using this also to control the ACIS manifold).

    th_31082009012.jpgth_DSC00026copy.jpgth_DSC00376copy.jpgth_DSC00377copy.jpg

    - Custom made intecooler, made in UK (72Χ18Χ7cm with 60mm inlet/outlet pipes)

    th_23102009022.jpgth_23102009023.jpgth_23102009024.jpg

    - Garrett GT25 (hybrid ? ) turbo

    th_10072009007.jpgth_10072009006.jpgth_10072009005.jpgth_10072009004.jpg

    ARP Headbolts for 4E/5E

    th_0059.jpgth_0061.jpg

    4E-FTE oil pan

    th_DSC00638.jpg

    4E-FTE rocket cover

    th_DSC00621.jpg

    EP91 Glanza 96' (manual model) engine loom

    th_IMG00052-20091120-2301.jpg

    Apex-i Power Intake induction kit

    th_IMG00048-20091115-2314.jpg

  14. Does anyone know what hp i can asume to get from this setup?

    WEPR TD04 kit

    Power FC

    BLITZ Front mounted intercooler

    460 injectors

    ROSS pistons

    Scat forged rods

    Racing valvesprings

    Cruise metal headgasket

    Its all depends from the mapping that you will do. Ho much pressure are you going to run? With this setup you must study the efficiency map of the turbo and give the proper boost to get the best out of it.

    by the way the car is finally so close to its final stage and its better than ever :)

    PS Still haven't found a pair of cf sideskirts?

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