NeilH

cant help with the car or the dealer but i think thats a bit pricey for a N plate with those miles. i got a P plate with less miles and a few mods for £500 less than that, with those splitters too.

you are very photogenic though. thought about modelling?

very nice. lookin at that makes me want to do mine.

yeah but the varis is the only one thats a proper carbon fibre bonnet.

the carbon culture one is a carbon layer over a fibreglass frame.

its ok scrap what i said. toby is selling them on tgtt....£520 + delivery.....bonnet vent is fuckin horrid though. wont be buying one of them.

been lookin into these carbon bonnets lately because i have the money sittin here to buy one. but all the ones i looked at are just carbon layer over a fibreglass frame.

has anybody imported a proper one from japan or OZ or somewhere?

Admiral for a GT

Quinn-Direct for a Glanza.

always remember that.

you be better off taking the bonnet off the car and drilling it from the under side, then if you do slip and scratch it who gives a fuck.

where did you buy it mate? i need to get one.

how much di that set you back mate?

and whats the quality on them like? do you get to keep your air con?

i need one now!

good oppurtunity to put a proper clutch in now.

the one you got is fucked anyway.

they are tellin you the truth mate. in fact your clutch is already shagged if its leaking.

the seal is only a couple of bucks to buy. but you gotta take the gearbox out. so its time consuming. it wont do no damage to your flywheel though.

id get it done mate to be honest. when it starts leaking really bad your clutch will get badly contaminated and wont bite.

its probably slipping already though is it?

there are some very very nice cars there.

there are also some equally shit ones.

my 2 faves are the white glanza and the silver glanza. who owns those? i need to speak to them.

Try the traders on ToyotaGtturbo.com, Toby, Trevor etc

No they do not to be put back on for MOT as there are no emission tests for Glanzas

clearly you are joking with that comment?

i filled up tonight. i got 210 miles out of the last £20 ;)

;) ;) i would HIT it

NOT!!!!!!

with a crow bar

i went in a CTR last week. apparently it had been "tuned"

didnt impress me one little bit. in fact, i think that my GT would have pushed him up the road if we were racing. i had to pretend that i loved it though.

NeilH

what do you lot use to lubricate your BOV?

i have tried everything from wheel bearing grease to vaseline to WD40 but nothing seems to last that long.

i know these things have to be cleaned and lubricated regularly but i can hear the difference after just a week!!!

so what do you lot use?

NeilH.

its injector click. every starlet ive heard has it. never heard one with noisey tappets myself.

you could get them ultrasonically cleaned if it bothers you that much.

personally i would just spend a tenner on a good quality injector treatment like Forté or Wynns.

take the plastic cover off underneath the car. (2x10mm bolts by the front bumper and 2x10mm bolts in the driver side front wheel arch)

the alternator belt in self tensioned, so get yourself a 13mm spanner and lever the tensioner and remove the belt. draw the path of the belt on a peice of paper before removal and keep it safe, you'll need it later.

get a 13mm swan neck spanner and slack off the pinch bolt in the air con pump. you do this from underneath the car.

ratchet, 12mm 'deep' socket, LONG extension bar. a nice 12 incher will be best. (oooooeeerrrrr missus!) and wind the bolt clockwise. dont worry, your not tightening it, your taking the tension off the belt round the air con pump.

when its very slack, remove the air con belt and keep it safe with the alternator belt. keep it on your workbench, you dont want to contaminate them with the dirty oil you'll be draining.

there are 4x12mm bolts holding the air con pump on to its housing, 2 at the top and 2 at the bottom would you believe.

once they are removed, let the air con pump hang there, it wont do no harm.

you will now notice there is a bastard of a bracket covering the oil filter. its no threat with the air con pump out of the way though. just remove the 2x10mm bolts holding it on and whip it out of the way.

you will be able to see the oil filter now with more room than you could ever need. so dont spend a truck load on posh removal tools, just use the old one your dad got in the shed.

put the new filter on as tight as you can...but only by hand. dont use the tool to do it up.

and something that caught me out was that starlets use a fcukin well gay sump plug washer. you'll need a new one. a massive 77p from toyota.

starlets only use around 3 litres of oil. so fill it with just under 3 litres, then start the engine to fill the filter up with oil...as soon as the oil light on the dash goes out, knock it off and top it up to the correct level.

if you get your bredrin/ganksta/homey whatever you call a friend round you way to pass you your tools, it should take you around 45 mins. any longer and you work too slow. lol j/k.

if you need any more help mate then pm me...im a fcuker for forgetting what threads ive replied to.

laters,

NeilH.

Just a quick update...

The wheels are on. I fitted Falken 195x45x15 ZE512's all round from Camskill.co.uk (£38 each - delivered). Wicked value!

I didn't need spigot rings at all. The centre bore was a perfect match for the wheel. In fact you couldn't have got a spigot ring in there if you'd wanted!

The car definately "feels" better on the road. A load more secure around tight corners due to the reduction in tyre sidewall flex. the original steelies were an 80 profile, so they used to move around loads under hard cornering. Apart from that, they were only 145's so grip was hardly abundant!!!

All in all, it looks a million times better, and I've had several people comment on how nice it looks.

Pics to follow...

EarL.

are you sure mate? the size of the center bore on a mazda is very much bigger than the starlet. i had to have spigots made for mine.

i think you may be wrong on this mate.

no offence.

the usual question is what size nut or bolt wont you find on ANY japanese car.

everybody says 13mm but its incorrect as there is a honda engine out there that has a 13mm bolt holding the timing belt tensioner on.

but as he mentioned toyota specifically, i decided to answer the question lol

13mm?

eckskay, my wheels are ET35, and im getting a bit of rubbing or hard bumps.

i know the ideal offset is et37 but its only 2 out....shouldnt rub should they?

that dont surprise me with him, he does like a little dabble.

i have no idea why he aint on here, but i know hes on TGTT.