Ricky@Race-Tech

51.839, have picture.

Its things like if you use a 10mm halfords open ended spanner you can see the spanner flexy on tight bolts and they soon round nuts off. Snap On don't do this, plus they have little teeth inside on some spanners these come in handy when customers have tried to remove something with a Halfords spanner and rounded the bolt off Also there sockets the teeth don't start till about 3-4mm from the edge so they aren't so good on rust bolts. (hard to explain. I break mainly there rachet stuff, and allen key's torx on the 3/8s rachet.

If Snap On do make halfords tools they don't make them at the same place. I've got some Halfords tools and they don't share anything with Snap On in my opinion apart from the warranty. Its annoying when they break but at least they are free to get replaced, If your using them all the time, you need 2 of everything, if there for DIY then the great. Snap On tools break far less frequently and never break unless your using them wrong. I.e. 3/8ths sockets on impact guns. I've got a Snap On breaker bar thats over 20 years old, i've had 6 foot of scaffolding tube on it and jumped on it and it didn't break. (it flexed a massive amount though) But of cause there twice the cost and harder for the average person to get replaced.

I've welded a couple of these now, if its an expensive head i.e. ported etc then repair it, sometimes its cheaper and easier to just get a used cylinder head as it has to be removed anyway to do a propper job.

Adding extra preload to the actuator isn't the best way to raise the boost. You'd be much better getting an EBC. As for your wastegate not opening fully, this would actually cause the boost to be higher not lower.

I could make you a custom 1, wouldn't be the cheapest but could be tunable slighty.

Hello, It's a T3 but it hasn't got the normal rectangluar hole in the middle so the flow from a normal T3 manifold will be really bad, negating any advantage it would have been such a small AR on the hotside. A 0.48 housing on a t3 still won't spool as early as a td04 in most cases. We do use something similar on our 350bhp turbo though with good results. Remember if it was used sucessfully on a bike, it's because they rev so high, it might only be a 1200cc bike, but with 10,000+rpm's at its disposal coming on boost at 5k won't worry the power ranger. Also looks pretty oilly on the hot side, could be knackered.

The drain is at the bottom. The fill/level is a 24mm slimline nut on the front of the box, roughly half way up and in the middle. You can fill through this and wait till it starts to come out this is the correct level. Edit; here you go found you a picture.

The pressure remains the same but the flow is increased with the bigger turbo, more flow means more oxygen hence the need for more fuel. The stock ECU run's rich so it will certainly be leaner, at least get the fueling checked.

Hello, I'd recommend a standalone unit for what you require. We fit and map these PM me for more info. Regards Ricky

The "ebay" intercooler cores vary a lot, you get some bad ones and some good. The piping leaves a lot to be desired on that kit though, it will be like tissue paper, soon as you tighten a decent clamp onto it it will bend. And your probably never going to get the routing right without a million hose joints with the potential to blow off.

in my opinion Things like; personal message, LOL, ROLF, etc (no pun intended ) are abbreviations rather than text speak and should be left as they are. I don't use or like text speak, but use a lot of abbreviations.

None of the above is on the MOT thats probably why it passed

Nice project gaz, you using a spaceframe?

It will make a difference, but if i'm in a porsche doing 105, or a metro doing 95 in the rain they would give me 3 points and 6 quid in the metro, FAR more dangerous IMO. Against a possible ban in the porsche. Thats why its important all factors are considered IMO.

Nice car and mods. I'm guessing the gearbox is standard? Go steady with that shifter. Most people pull the car out of gear before the clutch is full disengaged, this is fine with a normal H pattern as your only going from in gear to neutral, by the time your ready to go back in a gear the clutch is fully down. With a "sequential" style shifter, soon as you move the lever its ready to go in gear much quicker than normal and you tend to press the clutch 2 late and wear the syncro's very quickly. Drive steady till you get used to it

Gone over my monthly bandwidth, need to resize all the pic's etc thought it would be enough but had lots of traffic this month

Hello UKSC, Here are a few quick words (not what we do best) about what we do best at Race-Tech. Mapping Fabrication Engine building Supplying parts As we cover all aspects of tuning and fabrication we gain the unique advantage of being your 1 stop tuner for drive in drive out builds, drag, road or race. For more information see our section or visit our website www.race-tech.co.uk You can view our subforum here If you don't find what your looking for do not hesitate to PM, or call Ricky on 07852 201375. we will be expanding our traders shop within a few days

Is the car overheating or just spitting coolant out? Are you sure its speed related not RPM/boost related?