ForgedV

As above definitely be interested, would be nice to see flow graphs showing the gains

Lol I know

At a quick glance I can imagine mines actually a hks one for now mean time

Cheers for the link jay. Not a bad price either!

Nobody is selling a uprated one though I've been waiting months for tuning developments for months so that's now a no go I guess ... Don't want a sumo power one ... And there's been traders always saying about making one but never happens

I know my chances are slim but it's worth a try

Entirely up to you but if it was my own I wouldn't want to grind away the wheels or calliper. Have you tried a 10mm spacer or anything like that yet?

Only thing I can advise then is spacers mate

Fingers crossed mate! I'm looking forward to seeing how she moves!

Them photos have been clearly photo shopped ;)

^ weather knowing him lol

Ah ok mate just trying to help Glwts

This is everything that comes out. Disconnected the metal brake lines that connect to the rubber flexi pipes or braided should you have them, then disconnect the hard pipe from abs to flexi pipe roughly 6" long on both ns and os, disconnect both brake lines that run off the master cylinder, disconnect both rear brake lines from the bottom of the p valve located on the bottom of the bulk head, unplug the actuator and remove the relay, undo the 2 12mm bolts on top and one underneath and then it all pulls straight out. Leave your master cylinder on though. I replaced all the above with standa

No it's full of LEDs and its a 98/99 spec light

I removed my abs last weekend. Thanks to silly sr having a uk starlet non abs I had his o/s & n/s brake lines, proportioning valve, and the lines that run off the master cylinder and the 2 rears stay in the same place. Was all a straight fit, might be worth if there's any non abs uk starlets around and rip the brake lines out of that, still looks oem then too.

There's your answer and it's cheaper then a set of new wheels and tyres. And you still keep your brakes and your wheels and tyres, then the long wait for you to get hold of them was still worth it.

It's wheel design aswel mate like the dish hence why I've got spacers on mine that wide to clear the spokes, the offset is fine.

Your still struggle there's very little wheels with a deep enough offset for them to clear. Just get a decent set of spacers with a good spigot ring that fits your wheels and it will be fine, if anything handle slightly better due to wider track

Just get wheels with a deep enough offset or a set of spacers. I did run15" compomotives mo's on mine for a while with no spacers. Put the new actions on and now run 40mm spacers. Spacers are cheaper then a new set of wheels and tyres!

Wish mine was done Still be coming just not in my car

I've got 40mm spacers running on mine with toms new actions 15" I'd imagine yours will need spacing the same. Time to buy yourself some new front wings ;)

Bump

I'm not running a brand new engine as said in my first post mate, its all the same head and bottom end bar new pistons and rings gasket etc and it's easier to get it all bolted up and fitted now. And I would of thought the amount of oil pressure running through it all would stop anything like that from happening and having the magnetic sump plug and obviously regular oil changes for the first 1000 miles or so it would be ok?

I thought this but cant understand the reason why? Could you explain ...

For those of you who will search this hopefully this helps. This is for Mocal OT Inline thermostats. Block -> Oil Filter In -> Oil Filter out -> Thermostat In Cold Side, by passes Oil cooler core when cold, hot side on other then flows through cooler -> Returns to stat -> Returns to block.