Rob H@RCH Engineering

sounds sweet dude, look forward to meeting you and seeing it!

Them rear lights have to go tho!

NO the rear lights are staying! they have been like that almost as long as I have had the car I bet I had only had it 2 weeks before I did em it took ages to mask em up for painting but thats the advantage of working at a bus garage lol ya get paid for maxing lol

Another one from other side! looking good mate!

The bigger TB would give much better response also... but yes the stock item will flow well enough for alot of power...

But Burny is after alot of power... so.. lol

In what way do you mean it will give better response? How are you measureing the response because by response it can mean a lot of things, but from what your saying it sounds like race tech may have measured this. Hence me wondering how it's been measured. Which I'm sure you'll agree, is a valid questions to your statement

I agree but a lot of power is spoiled if there is loads of lag too, depends on how important to ya looks are over power, but thats just me I have been around long enough to have seen lots fail and lots succeed lol as much as ya like the facts are all a round!

Have a read of this it will give you an idea of what to expect!! unless you are going for over the 350 mark there is no point in moving away from the stock manifold how many cars are running over 300 on the stock manifold these days.

http://www.toyotagtturbo.com/forums/showthread.php?98651-turbo-help-please&p=1079843&highlight=#post1079843

I could of gone down the FTE path but I been there done that lol I was one of the first to do it!! I have 2 or 3 FTE blocks I could have used and a full engine but I dint want to do that as every one and the grany is at it!! I like to be different so why not!

with this! the oil feed is taken from the sandwich plate I welded a lump onto the side and drilled and taped it out to take a oil pipe.

If you cant drive...

I have 340bhp.. 2nd gear no problem at all in the dry with decent tyres...

Its very good at putting power down... LSD Win.

Traction control, launch control, Boost by gear and cusco 1.5 diff!!! quad WIN lol

Ups forgot the anti lag!!!!!

Its I have ever done mate I have lived at the garage since I was 4 and its been in the family almost 100 years lol so between me and my dad there aint much we carnt do! I draw the line at tuning and the more complex wiring stuff tho, spanners and hammers all the way for me lol

Im 32 this year!!

cheers mate I drilled and taped out where it was riveted in and put bolts in to fasten it back in place it needs to have the baffle plate or it will blow oil out of the breathers all the time.

I have not had a glanza engine in bits so I dont know about the cranks in them I have always used GT engines in mine up till this point! But it would make sense as the Glanza rods are made of butter lol

The 4EFE cranks are marked different to the turbo cranks efe= 4e and fte= 4et, the cranks are the same to look at other than the casting marks, but they are interchangeable as for strength I dont know how they compare lol

This is the N/A crank in mine where this says 4E the turbo one says 4ET

Well small update we have started mapping it now only got upto 9psi but at that it made 143whp so I am quite happy with that! Now to map it up to 1.6-1.8 (26psi)

He had Gems modify the soft wear so he has all the Gems features for tuning the AEM ecu and they did it all for him!!! It's like he has them by the balls lol one email or phone call and all is done he just phones the MD of Gems there service is second to non!

No it's a fully forged build with cruise cams and valve springs, if ya have a look at my build thread ya can see but the block, head, inlet mani and crank is all 4EFE

Yep thats the hole Idea in my build lol keeping it 4EFE!!! done every thing else before done this before but not like this lol

Got a bit more mapping done yesterday it still needs rest of the trimming and fine setting up and then taking up to 1.6-1.8bar we are still waiting for GEMS to iron out a couple of problems with the soft wear too but I am still happy so far!!

No it's not a standard 4efe it's fully forged there's more info on that in my build thread. But the coil packs are honda type R packs and I am running a AEM stand alown ecu.

Cheers lads its been a long time coming but its getting there it was quite a feeling getting it on the DynoPacks after its been off the road so long now, its almost a year now since it came off the road!

Well we have started tuning it now only in the very early stages yet run out of time today but its running sweet as now and sounds so much better than it does in the video even tho its only just starting to make boooooooooost

ya can come down when ya like I have a new date for the CAS disc been dispatched now of the 1/6/12 so will see I should get it next week with a bit of luck !! and then it can be mapped!

Give the valve spring retainers a tap with a hammer and a socket BEFORE you wined the piston to the top to free off the collets it will make them easier to remove once the piston is up at the top, use a pair of long nose pliers to pull off the seal or you can get some proper valve seal pliers that make the job much easier. do them one cylinder at a time.

There is a pick in the link to the tgtt guide to removing the head of fitting the service bolt I dont have one to hand but I do have the TOYOTA work shop manual and supplement for the engine over at the garage!

As Flaminsam says its a much easyer way of doing it leaving the head on and using compressed air to hold the valves closed,

REMEMBER TO PUT THE SERVICE BOLT INTO THE CAM GEAR BEFORE YOU REMOVE THE CAPS!! it screws into the hole in the split gear to stop the spring tension releasing if ya dont you will be wondering why it rattles like mad.

I think MR2 did 286whp and around 350lb-ft torque I was around that it was good power for a N/A at less than a tone!