steve-gers

Trying to sort an offer to sell the car in one so will break if it falls through

Yes still for sale not started breaking yet

On the way home last night it died, no fuel pressure so either fpr or pump must have went. For sale today only for £2000 as i am going for a new car all parts still on it have a spare fpr to try aswell but no spare pump.

Corsa's including modified VXR ones < starlet's

Go from underneath its easier

Finally the best suspension on the market is available via UKSO

No chance in hell it did 169mph, impossible.

I have an engine and a box with a TRD LSD in it on my for sale thread.

Right guys this is now up for breaking. As long as I get about £500-600 worth of parts sold straight away so I can buy a runabout. Could somebody please move this to the appropriate section. Thanks

Thats on forum page

clearing out my hosting account managed to find an intact copy of uksc from last year before socks sabotaged my site and ripped a cloned copy of uksc and hosted it under a different urlwill be back online in a few hours..

Spec, pictures?

A bit of interest but nothing worthwhile. If i can get £1000 worth of parts sold then I will start breaking it but cant until then as I need it for work. So if anyone wants parts above or those not listed let me know. Pictures of parts on request.

I would sell you my meister r zeta r's for £400 plus your shocks and springs as I think its time to break my car.

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Rainsport 2 get my vote, brilliant tyre with loads of grip and good wear

Its pretty easy tbh mate, you can use the auto rad if you want it was fine for me on a TD04 but makes sense to change it while your there anyway. The shafts and cv joints will not need changed, just pull them out the box in one piece and they will slide into manual box the same way. You will need lots of things, some of which are mentioned above and some I am sure I will miss.

- Full clutch kit

- Manual Box

- New engine/gearbox mounts (drivers side is the same)

- Gear shifter cables x2

- Gear shifter assembly

- Gear shifter gaitor

- Clutch pedal assembly

- Manual brake pedal assembly

- Clutch master cylinder

- Clutch slave cylinder

- Copper & rubber clutch hoses

- Brake fluid (small bottle)

- Clutch fork

- Manual flywheel

- Manual gearbox > engine bolts

- Manual gearbox sandwich plate a.k.a shit plate

- Starter motor (change solenoid over from auto motor to avoid chopping car wiring)

You will need to wire the autobox plug to bypass the neutral start which is done by joining the 2 biggest wires on the larger of the 2 plugs you remove from the autobox. 3 hole's will need to be drilled in the bulkhead to mount the clutch master cylinder to, 2 for the studs to go through and 1 for the activating rod to connect onto the pedal. This is the most awkward part of the conversion if you don't have the engine out (I took mine out) but the area to cut is marked on the metal so you can't really go wrong. Make sure you have all the bolts for each part before you start i.e flywheel bolts, clutch bolts.....etc and if I remember correctly you need longer bolts for the shifter assembly. You could buy new clocks but the auto ones work fine, only thing you need to do is take out the bulb for the overdrive on/off as it flashes after the conversion.

Piles peak? Sounds painful

Mobile - 07824484057

E-mail - steve198946@googlemail.com

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Year: 1995
Model: White GT Turbo
Tax: Ends 31/07/2013
MOT: Expires 12/02/2014
Mileage: 109K on shell 43k on engine since rebuild

Description:
Regrettably for sale is my much loved starlet. I have had it now for over 2 years and the old owner was an enthusiast as well which showed as I got over £6,000 worth of receipts with the car which come with it. In addition to that I have spent in excess of £3,000 on it in the last 2 years with receipts for major purchases included. It was bought as an automatic and stayed that way until December last year when I decided to convert to manual. During the conversion I changed the turbo setup from a CT9 to a TD04 and reduced the boost to 0.5 bar until it was mapped. The gearbox I used was a C52 from another GT which was in good condition and had the benefit of having an aftermarket LSD fitted which makes a massive difference in the way the car drives both in handling terms and at putting the power down. The oil I used was redline fully synthetic, I still have about 1/2 litre which will come with car just incase it ever needs topped up.

On December 21st the car was taken to Tuning Developments to have an E-manage blue fitted and mapped, the car made a healthy 221.8BHP at 1bar of boost on 95 octane fuel. It reached similar torque levels and the car feels immense to drive on the road, even in the wet the LSD puts power down for fun from 2nd/3rd onwards depending on conditions. During the conversion I put all new engine mounts on, the engine and side gearbox mount were both TRD items and the rear gearbox mount was a standard mount with a Powerflex bush in it. The clutch used was a 2nd hand exedy 3 paddle but it has recently went so I have a new spec 6 puck one sitting waiting to go in which will be done before it gets sold.

A month or 2 after mapping I was a bit "enthusiastic" on a friday drive home from work and had an accident with the car which involved colliding with a grass banking a spinning out. Needless to say I was completely gutted after spending all that time effort and money on the car but at the end of the day it was my own fault. At first I thought it was due the scrap yard (panic) but upon further inspection (at a body shop) it was revealed that the damage was thankfully purely cosmetic. Due to lack of funds at the time, the car was repaired to pass an MOT and be safe on the road but cosmetically it isn't 100%.

The oil and filter are changed every 6-8k miles and I only use premium oils such as Millers, Fuchs.......etc just depends what is cheapest at the time. Spark plugs are changed as required and are NGK Iridium's, heat range 7 all other service items such as timing belt, brakes, bushes, boots, dizzy cap, rotor arm, HT leads......etc are done when needed and are all fairly new with receipts for all the parts at the time of change. It does need a new track rod end but I have 2 brand new ones here that will either go with the car or be put on before sale. The engine was fully rebuilt by the previous owner and the receipt is there to prove this, it feels like a very healthy engine and pulls very well, needless to say it is always fully warmed up and cooled down on every drive.

After crashing the car was tracked as it obviously took a bump and to my amazement it drives just like it did before but as stated it is still not 100% fixed cosmetically as some of the shut lines are slightly out due to the slam panels and inner wings still needing fine tweaking. The reason this hasn't been done is that the car is a daily and I do most of the work on my car myself, bodywork isn't my forte and to be honest it's just another "I'll get round to it" thing. It has a whole new front end on it which is black and includes a MK1 bumper so if you have the time and skill or cash to have it put back to 100% then it would be well worth it.

The reason for sale is a genuine one, although I love the car we have come to the end of our time together. I need something that is better on fuel as my work is 17 miles away from home, but a new "fun" car for weekends would have to be bought aswell. I may be up for swaps or p/x it really depends what is offered, I do intend to come back to the starlet scene at some point but fancy owning a few cars I have wanted to own before I get a forged starlet.

I know the asking price is high for the condition of the car and I appreciate that but I have put far too much of myself into this car to let it go cheap and would rather break it than sell it for peanuts. If there is no interest around this price then it will be broken and the prices I want for each part if I break are below (probably missed some) which total over £3000 before silly things are stripped like window motors, doors, switches.......etc. Even if you bought it to break it rather than repair it you would make money although due to the fact that the underneath is spotless it seems too good to break. I have a couple of before and after pictures below but I can send more through mail if required.

Parts List
Meister R Zeta R Coilovers £450
White Team Dynamics Monza R Wheels £50
Momo Steering Wheel £25
TRD Gearknob £15
Engine £400
Gearbox With TRD LSD £400
WEPR EX Gated TD04 Full Turbo Setup £600
Japspeed Exhaust £70
OEM 3-Point Rear Brace incl all plastics £100
Cobra Harnesses £30
Greddy E-manage Blue + wiring £200
Greddy Profec B Spec 2 EBC £125
Seats £30
MK1 Front Bumper £50
2 TRD + 1 Powerflex Engine Mounts £75
TD RRFPR £25
TD 255LPH Fuel Pump £50
Triple Core Civic Style Rad £75
Front Mount incl TD04 Pipework £50
Indiglo Dials £40
Vibe K-Series 6x9's £25
Alpine Type-E Component Speakers £25
Custom Adjustable Panhard Rod £25
Quadlights, Indicators & Grille £100


Price: Offers over £2750










Contact Details: Private mail on here.

Cheers guys

Pull all the rubber plastic and carpet bits off and throw them in the bin, not needed.

Anyone?