mr_K
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Posts posted by mr_K
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While i was driving my glanza last night the engine management light came on, it was on for a few minutes it went away and came back on, i stopped and bridged the te1-e1 and i got two codes ones for knock sensor and other for lean o2,
what could be the reason? Ive owned the car for 6years nothing was wrong.
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On 12/3/2018 at 5:22 PM, RobSR said:
Can you post a pic of how you have it plumbed currently?
I can then advise if correct / wrong.
Ive plumbed it in the same way as stated on the installation guide,
the port which draws air in from intake is connected to the throttle body, is that correct? Or is it ment to be tapped into the map sensor hose?
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I have a hks evc v on my glanza and everytime i tried to plumb in the vacuum hoses and set the controller up its overboosting and not holding boost,
im doing something wrong but i dont know where; i followed the hks manual but still no luck.
my setup is running a external wastegate can anybody help me on where the boost solenoid hoses go to.?
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On 27/12/2017, 11:31:02, daniel_g said:
Idle speed is related to coolant temp.
If its colder it will idle higher.
There was a guide on TGTT on how to set the idle if you want to, you need feeler gauges and a multimeter.
Do you have the web link mate?
its getting annoying now and its using too much fuel.
thanks
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Hello to everyone, my glanza has been idling high these days,
as the weather got colder the idle has been high and takes time to drop down.
i few months ago i found a guide somebody showing how to set the idle when engine is warm and with the tps disconnected and by bridging the te pins. I forgot how the procedure was done ;anyone know how it is done? I want to drop the base idle to below 1k as its sitting on that right now.
thanks
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Im after a decent condition steering rack for my glanza as mines leaking and all over the place.
also maybe interested in the steering pump too.
thanks
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Did you hit fuel cut?
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Hi, does anyone know how to setup a hks evc boost controller?
I watched a video on youtube and went by that it boosted to 1.32bar nearly flew out the window,
Im running stock ecu so needs to be maximum 0.75bar
wastegate spring is a 0.6 so need to up the boost a little.
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if its a puck clutch it will shake when engaging clutch
is the engine moving or engine starts jerking ??
Its engine movement,
Not something with the electrics.
Can feel slight play in gearstick but nothing too severe.
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no thats the input shaft i seen the video
input shaft ( clutch )
output shaft ( going to diff ) aka driven shaft
Ah i see so i was right,
I also got an annoying problem,
When im crusing in low gears and i let of the accelerator it jerk forward and back, also the same when i accelerate.
Can it be the tps or rear mount? The mounts are polybushed already
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well and trully fucked ha ha
dont worry about the movement of the input shaft its not to bad its kinda normal the input shaft is only located in situ by the outer bearing spring below 5th gear
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I changed the clutch it was the clutch making the sound, as you can see in the pictures the clutch is dead.
The gearbox input shaft has some in and out play would this cause any problems?
I rebuilt it a couple months ago so i dont know why its got play.
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just make sure the springs in the centre have no sighns of where on them ( dont mind the spelling ) or the shit will still be making horrid sounds
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How many miles you covered with this clutch?
Im not 100% sure to be honest,
But id assume around 6000-7000
Im getting a competition clutch stage 2 for £100 tomorrow will be fitting that on with a new slave cylinder and fresh fluid.
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My glanza has recently been making a creaking sound and also like a metal spring flicking sound when i press the clutch pedal in,
It only does it from cold and once warmed up it will usually go away,
I have a exedy paddle clutch fitted and it been in since 2013.
This week the pedals been feeling very soft and also the engage point is high and when changing gears i dont feel the clutch releasing and engaging.
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Im after a good oem quality clutch for my glanza,
Can be a stage 1 too,
Anyone got one for sale
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I give it a try mate,
The car was sleeping for a good few months maybe that caused it to lock up,
Ill let you know how i get on cheers
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Try the passenger side with the key,
Lock, unlock, lock backwards and forwards, a good few times,
Had this problem before mine was the locking mechanism got rusty, got door panel off gave it a good old spray a few times, that sorted that.
Hopefully yours is an easy fix like mine 👍🏻
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Hello,
My glanza's passenger side door lock stopped working recently,
I have central locking when i lock the car with the key only driver side locks and the passenger side doesnt lock or unlock,
You can see there is a slight flick sound coming from the door but doesnt have enough power to lock or unlock the passenger side?
What can be the problem?
Can it be a faulty door locking mechanism?
Thanks
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thats what cv joints are for lol
Yes i know are but to a certain extent.
Cant be riding on a 45degree angle lol will kill them.
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Still on original joints from 2012, havent done a huge amount of miles but never thrown up any issues that im aware of.
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I would say thats a better angle than mine, since i put the poly mounts in its pulled it further out as before they were sagging into a better position
Yes your one looks more than mine,
Have you had any issues yet with the driveshafts?
Like binding or joints wearing?
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"mugs game" haha, interesting project. My mate had a 205 with a Mi16, was great fun.
Lol my brother and his friend taking the piss there!!
Cel25 & 52
in Ignition & Fueling
Posted
I checked the plug and wiring going to it everything looks fine,
i read a few threads on replacing the shielded wire and grounding it on the engine side, does it matter which side the ground is? Sensor or ecu side?
i took a pic of the shielding does this look normal?