mr_K

Got a e150 box here from a NA,

Cheap if your still interested?

Seems like alternator or could be a bad earth,chek battery with a meter to see if u are getting a good charge and maybe clean your earths.

Seems like alternator or could be a bad earth,chek battery with a meter to see if u are getting a good charge and maybe clean your earths.

Where are the main earths on the glanza's?

I know ones on the iacv.

This may not of caused the issue but I remember one time I forgot to put the pipe on from the inlet manifold to pcv valve and it done what's happening in the video

Im running a race rocker cover also all ends are blocked on the intake manifold.

My glanza is having really bad low idle problems,

In traffic when im stationary the cooling fan will kick on and then suddenly my revs bounce all the way down to 100rpm and back upto 800rpm, it evens stalls when its sitting in slow moving traffic.

I dont know whats causing this problem,

Ive uploaded a video and have a look at how low the idle drops.

I purposly switched on all electronics so that you get an idea of it.

The handbrake light dims and as i rev the engine i can see it getting brighter and back to dim when idle drops.

Can it be a battery,alternator problem or a idle control valve?

https://youtu.be/PDZyjsEx4zE

Thanks

Probaly your turbo mate,

Mines smokes too after i boost on idle itll puff out some blue smoke and stop.

Check your turbo for any signs of oil and play

Shaft angle can play a part in how the torque is applied (especially with an open diff) and effect torque steer. Some angle is fine, as long as you have roughly the same on both. I don't know much about the K series engines but if they have a bearing hanger on the back of the engine then I'd try to use it as it will even out your shaft lengths which also helps with even torque distribution.

The k20 uses equal length driveshaft design, it has a half shaft that mounts on the engine,

Looking straight at the hubs the shafts a looking slightly to the left on the inner.

The angle is not too bad but i like to have everything lined up and straight, its just touching the firewall.

Okay mate thanks for that,

The angle is not that bad, its just not inline thats what i was worried about causing the wheel to lock on full turns.

Im doing a k20 swap into a starlet ep91.

The angle of the engine is abit too forward,

And the angle of the driveshafts not inline.

Does the driveshaft angle need to be dead centre with the hubs, or will abit of angle be okay?

Thanks

https://youtu.be/KikW0RW_tbs

Check the video out,

Its not as bad on the video but in traffic itll drop very low.

Try adjusting the idle screw on the inlet

Ive already done that mate no difference,

It just increases the idle way high. Itll sit at around 1200,

Been having problems with my idle on my glanza recently.

Its all fine when i start up from cold and as the engine warms up the revs drop under 1k,

Worst time is when im in traffic ill move off slowly the idle will be on 900rpm and once im stationary it hang for abit then drop all the way to 600-700rpm.

Also when the fan kicks in the engine will shake and struggle to pick up the revs.

What can be the problem?

Ive had this problem for almost a year but mostly happens when the waethers are hot.

Checked my ect sensor checked for air leaks. Changed the idle control valve still the same

Mine also does it on hot idle aswell but only after the turbo has been used,

Ill check this week and have a look athe turbo the way you described and let me see if there is any oil.

Its really annoying and i dont want to damage my forged engine.

Thanks

My glanza has been smoking these days as the weathers have warmed up,

If i drive normal and use minimal turbo there is no smoke, but once the turbo is used i can see a mist of smoke from my side mirror and i when i come to a standstill on idle i can see some smoke coming from the exhaust.

The oil smell is really strong after use of turbo.

I put a video of me revving it and you can see the ammount of smoke.

Im thinking its the turbo but people are telling me all sorts of things like valve stem seals and piston rings.

The engine is forged and done about 8000-9000miles.

https://youtu.be/iHXwyK4o5gU

Ive been using 10w40fully synth oil since my engine has been forged,

I want to know what oil grade are you guys with forged motors using?

I use mine daily, roughly around 100miles a week i do..

What oil is recommended to use wit forged engine setup?

Thanks

Mine has the exact same knocking, ive checked all clearnces and also re done the timing like 5times each time with cam tensioned sounds still there.

Mines been running for a year now and no issues.

Its just the combination or wiseco pistons and scat roads i guess

Hello,

Im after set of shifter cables for my gt,

Mines stuck and wont engage any gears,

Anybody have some for sale?

Thanks

Do you have the alternator by any chance?

Im after one for a glanza.

Cheers

is the alternator sold mate?

I'm after a alternator for my glanza,

Can collect if near London

Thanks

Got a forged one here, 3800 you can have it mate.

Good specs too

Glanza v in blue

Hello,

Is the manifold kit still for sale mate?

nothing wrong with that sound like mine should hear mine on cold starts haha

Same here sounds like someones hammering my block in lol..

So i guess these sounds are normal on forged engines running wiseco pistons.

Would you recommend me to map now or wait a few thousand miles..

Ive done so far like 5000-6000miles

Well I'm glad I'm not the only one that is experiencing that noise!

Bring on running in and mapping

John

I thought i was the only one lol

Didnt realise it was on private lol,

You can watch it now mate,

Have a look and let me know what you.think.

Cheers

I have wieseco pistons with scat rods and I have a rattle as well dude. I've no idea what it is. Beginning to think it's just like that.

John

I think thats just how its ment to be.

My glanza has been making this sound since ive gone forged last year sometime, its always had a rattle sound but ive never come to the bottom of this.

Its got wiseco flat top pistons and scat rods with acl bearings all around.

I have uploaded a video so that you can hear and ill be glad if somebody can point me to the right direction of the sound and problem.

The engine doesnt burn any oil, just minimal and i drive it daily.

No losing water also

https://youtu.be/jJvcrXSvMHc

Thanks

the whine comes most from the input shaft bearing closest to the clutch

if the dif is moving around alot then bearings /spacers are gone to time to rebuild the box before it seizes / self destructs

Can the input shaft bearing be replaced?

Where would you recommend me to send the gearbox off for a rebuild?

In London locally I don't want to send it because they don't know how to rebuild properly..