richardc9052

Colin I think he means toyo ct9 mani.. they just bolt straight up lad

You would be looking at an approx comp ratio of 8.9:1 with 5efhe pistons or 8.5:1 with 5efe pistons

Yeah stick to drums.. i converted my starlet from disks to drums because i cant be bothered dealing with them. Never had a problem with drums in my last starlet so why would i bother with disks.

No you cant, needs the bolt.. it replaces the threaded filter bar to hold the housing onto the block. Tbh you wouldnt usually get one without the other..

Haha it wasnt my intentions Hope you get it sorted

I will say you need to become a paid member to sell on here. its only a few quid so id advise you to that ;)

Im sure that was for sale a few months ago for half nothing... advertised as shell with all parts included. Was that pastel green colour. looks like someones started to paint it then realised its not worth the hassle imo

have you made a bracket to hold the actuator yet

fuse box behind glove box and run wires through the wing. depending one which starlet you have there may be a grommit you can pull out to get the wires back into the cabin through the passo side otherwise you will have to drill a hole.

They are perfect. Just make sure that you set it right. If you want it to be stiffer you can pretension it with a shorter bracket, Which i did.... and then i was able to drift roundabouts for days using a touch of lift of oversteer. lol bit sketchy in the twisties if you dont have your wits about you. If you do, its very eays to get the car rotated and flay around tighter bends.

Id advise maybe to make a bracket with different height holes for the arb, that way you can set no pretension and then stiffen it up as you get used to it.

for rear anti roll bar, go to the scrapyard and get one off a transit connect. Then go to a motorfactors and get 2 50mm exhaust U clamps and ask them for a pair of 6" long arb's. Depending on what they give you, you may have to drill out the hole in the ARB itself. Then make up a bracket, drill, bolt it up, U clamps go on top of axle with the transit connect bushing and holder underneath. done.

ive got a set here. £30 posted Now i would recommend borrowing a set because it might not be your problem but just incase, my offer is here ;)

Yes but if the adjustable fpr on the return is set higher than the standard one it would defeat the purpose of keeping the standard fpr.. may as well just remove it and go with adjustable. Only way its worth it is if its set below standard but rising rate ratio is higher than standard to ramp up fuelling on boost.

Yeah i made one from 20v 4age for mine. Only because i wouldnt pay the price they ask for the off the shelf ones.

i made my own. i tried standard dia, straight piped to back box, 2.5" with mid and back box, 2" with mid and back box and 2" straight piped to back box.

I was also using a custom 4age 20v mani to 4efe flange AND i was running on 4efte ecu and loom (very good setup, nice aggressive timing supposed to help the fte off boost but works beautifully for this) all on a JDM 100ps 4efe... so this may differ if you are using standard.

The best for me was 2" straight piped to back box. anything else moved the powerband too much in either direction.

Get a broken toyosports mani, cut the flange off, get someone to weld 4afe runners to it ;)

That would not work how you think it would.. The standard fpr would open to allow fuel flow to pass but it would be stopped by the adjustable fpr up to an increased base pressure, which will cause the whole system to run at that higher pressure.

If you wanted to do what your suggesting, you need to obtain an adjustable fpr with a higher rising rate ratio, say 2:1 instead of 1:1. then set that to 1psi lower (without vac line) than standard. That way you will get extra fuel on boost once your over 1psi

ecumaster emu standalone with bluetooth module.

Leave it with standard fpr

Sounds like your cluster is faulty.

Try borrow a set of clocks to test

It should work if you do it one at a time, just do them back up to standard torque, then go over the sequence again to arp torque setting

Its all good

Ended up using 6cc wossner. Couldn't get the others without a 4-6 week wait

It's just how they are usually advertised. They don't equate to that cr but if you look at them enough you can tell which is flat top, 6cc dish, 10cc dish etc by the cr they are advertised by

If you make one I'll fit it and show it off. And I won't charge you for the privilege lol