jtaylor1990

Just posted this in the "off topic" section as wont let me post in the sales section so:

Hi guys, i have a bunch of interior stuff since stripping my GT, they are never gonna go back in. Im not really interested in selling them, i just want them gone as they are taking up valuable space and i may be moving house soon. I also have Two TMIC's in good working order, one with a mesh cover but it is broken. I have carpet, rear bench seat aswell as seat backing, body panel trims from inner rear quarters, Also the trims that cover the access holes to the rear shocks. Anyone know of anyone or want anything themselves then give me a txt on 07514577872. I WONT send them. Collection only guys. I live in Kent South east. thanks, Josh

Hi guys, i have a bunch of interior stuff since stripping my GT, they are never gonna go back in. Im not really interested in selling them, i just want them gone as they are taking up valuable space and i may be moving house soon. I also have Two TMIC's in good working order, one with a mesh cover but it is broken. I have carpet, rear bench seat aswell as seat backing, body panel trims from inner rear quarters, Also the trims that cover the access holes to the rear shocks. Anyone know of anyone or want anything themselves then give me a txt on 07514577872. I WONT send them. Collection only guys. I live in Kent South east. thanks

Ugh....yh mine is leaking too and gotta do it soon. Only after i took off the crank pulley did it start to leak. I think the biggest trouble will be getting the crank sprocket off. As age of the cars means its prob gonna be tight as f**k

Headgasket maybe?

Have u checked all boost hoses? If it hits peak pressure then drops it could be leaking from somewhere i.e intercooler piping etc

I have exactly this issue too. I think it may be thermostat as stated above. Im not sure but may be that the thermostat is stuck open so takes longer for the coolant to reach its optimum temp. I havnt got round to replacinf mine yet but id reccomend doing that first i think they are pretty straight forward to change looking at where they are located. If u do decide to go for it and change it, PM me and let me know if its made a difference.

Sounds like fuel cut to me tbh. Could be actuator getting stuck

The engine light never came on when hitting fuel cut on monday evening which is when i adjusted it. My boost gauge packed up so i drive like a granny to work and adjusted it right first time using a V.A.G tool. Drove it home yesterday fast and was fine. The Just popped on this morning whilst driving fairly quick.

Hi guys my engine light came on today whilst driving to work. I let it warm up for five mins on idle the drove another few mins before booting it a few times. I only just set up the actuator yesterday and hit fuel cut 3 times making whilst afjusting it. Now running at 0.8 bar on hybrid meshed turbo with FMIC, decat, standard mani. There has been no loss of power either and no additional noises that wernt already there. Any ideas? I know it needs a flash tool to connect to diagnostic port which, may i say, is a wank idea. Should just have an OBD port but suppose its a bit old for that. Car is a 1995 GT. Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks, Josh

Okay thanks. So ya think it will be alright to run without a BOV for now?

Hi guys. Just literally got my GT back on the road yesterday and i get shit loads of chatter back through the turbo. Its meshed at the moment just so i could take it out and set up the actuator as am running a hybrid. Im assuming i get all the chatter because either the spring in BOV piston is too stiff or its blcoked some how. Also has anyone set up an actuator on the CT9 Hybrid? Measurements of boost pressures would be appreciated. Im currently working off the measurements for a thread on setting the HKS one up however the internal wastegate arm lengths differ from CT9 to the CT9 hybrid. Also will i be okay running a mesh? I should have pipework and a filter turning up today but gonna run it without until the actuator is set up as gives me much better access

Thanks, Josh

I know its probably the first thing you did but have you checked the battery? Sounds like a flat battery to me

Does the level go back to normal when the car is cold? Could just be the rubber pipes expanding when the cars at running temp

Nice one. I was getting confused by all the piping through the high and low boost solenoid. So that means i can rid of all the piping. That runs above the cam cover?

Hey guys. Can someone tell/post pics of how their boost piping connects up to the Turbo and actuator please. Just fitted new Turbo but i cant for the life of me remember the pipe fitment. Please note i have a Tpiece connector too which runs to the gauge i believe.

Cheers

I drove the car today to a petrol station and now smokes after just 5 or so mins.... not good :'(. sometimes i resent working on cars .

Well I really wanna go down the TD04 route but moneys a bit tight atm, I have manifold decat and civic rad for now but may have to go down the ct9 rebuid route, how much for a rebuild then??

Hi guys, title says it all to be honest

Car can sit idling at home for example and every few days, sometimes earlier, sometimes a bit longer than a few days, it will start smoking from the exhaust but quite a bit then I blip the throttle and it stops completely and wont do it again for however long. The conditions dont matter, it does it hot or cold. Thoughts?? I've heard about the whole PCV valve being blocked but I have no idea what that does or its location on the engine bay, I think my turbo will go though

Thanks Josh

Nice thanks I just didnt know if it would be worth uprating to a dual core rad thats all. thanks dude

Hi guys, firstly i apologize if this is already a thread but Im limited on time atm so cant sift through them just yet.

I recently bought a single core civic rad for buttons, I've not put it on the car as Im building up bits for my TD04 kit.

Will I be okay to run this rad with the TD04 or would it be better to get a duel core rad?? thanks peeps

Josh

Hi Jay,

It is accessible from just laying in the footwell, I took out my driver seat as was only 4 x 14mm bolts thengives u the chance to lay down and look at it upside-down lol. I used a deep 12mm socket with wobbly drive 3/8 extension(s) and ratchet. Just make sure you spray up the thread of the fluid line going into the master cylinder and crack it off first as its much more difficult trying to do it with a loose master cylinder believe me. best way to get the line off is to lay under the car with the O/S/F of the car jacked up and your arm can stretch straight up . Just make sure u have spare brake fluid to hand as I ran out so had to wait till I got back from work the following day. Any problems just let me know

Josh

Well I have a digital boost gauge and hks actuator which was fitted last week also have a fmic and blitz filter. Then I set up the actuator to 0.8 bar (found measurements on GT turbo.com) and then wound off a little so that I didnt hit fuel cut. Now in low boost it reaches 11psi, which is fast enough for me, I found driving hard at night seems to have an affect on boost pressure, seeing as the air is more dense it mixes with the fuel better so u may find it boosts more. Defo recommend an actuator!!

Sorted now, was just a loose ignition live... I hope anyway lol

Morning lads,

Well actuator is now fitted, found measurements on gtturbo.com so meant I didnt have to piss about with adjustment etc. I wired a digital boost gauge in too as my old analogue one has lost the ability to give a correct reading. The digital gauge had to be wired into the back dash wiring as I needed ignition live and an earth. All worked fine until thismorning and now I have no dials work other than the speedo (as its cabled) but all the dash lighting works and functions. Now if it was dodgy wiring then I would imagine it would have blown a fuse but my gauge still works and reads the right pressure, so I think it may be a plug going intoo the dash thats come out, just thought Id check to see if anyone has had this problem before as I cant look at the car until tonight and I obvs need the fuel gauge working more than any

Well I dont wanna sound like an idiot but what is a screamer pipe?? I know of them but how they work etc is new to me so can someone please elaborate thanks