jtaylor1990

Tbh "pick1" Im with you on the chatter side of things as it sounds the tits . I've just looked up the relocation kits and found that I could jjust buy a couple of silicone elbows and a joiner pipe and id be away, only thing is I want my blitz Air filter to fit but it is pretty big lol. Random question but do u know how to upload photos?? because I can show everyone the engine set up then

Cold side dude, and yep vacuum lines connected. So if I take the efi pipe out and get a filter then that may help?? Where did you get the filter relocation kit?? As Im guessing the ebay stuff prob wont be too good quality

Okay sweet Thanks mate . Well I've now sorted all the issues, I had a pipe welded to my blitz valve and fitted it to the car and now sounds as though the chatter is coming from my air filter which, to my understanding, isnt good :S. My blitz valve doesnt seem to be letting off any pressure, I thought this may be due to the spring on the DV being too tight so I loosened but still the same chatter from the air filter. It sounds immense but its not good for the turbo . Any other advise??

okay il set it to 0.8 when i get the actuator and get a FPR too

What psi does it hit boost cut?? its 12psi isnt it??

Well upon further investigation I found the boost gauge pipe that goes to the T piece which is cut into the circuit was only on a little bit so it was slowly seeping pressure making it look as though I had boost leak, bastard thing lol, now its back on the pressure and vacuum is fine . Whats my next step?? I obvs need to increase fuelling to match the air now. I have the option of uprated fuel pump, AFR or a fuel pressure regulator. Recommendations??

Pipe sorted got a little boost leak atm needs but I think its the BOV so gonna have to cut bits up and try and fit the blitz one

Yeah tell me about it, I've checked all boost hoses but all is well. its not boosting to what it should still if u hold revs at about 5K the boost slowly drops off. And on my gauge its only reading about 5psi . I spoke to some guy at a garage near brands hatch today and he said that because its a much larger cooler and that the piping is alot longer the air has an awful lot further to go. So basically I've increased the volume of the intercooler but kept the same pressure so its not going to be as effective. So Im thinking manual boost controller to up it to a safe running pressure just to make up for the larger cooler.

Yep thats exactly what I did mate. So all is fitted just got a bit of boost leak which im aiming to sort today . Still a pain but never mind. just gotta strip the hoses back off and re-secure them

Bridged the pressure switch plug from the AC and the fans have stopped now, they still cut in at 90 degrees as they should, just the piping now

Lol I've sorted it now cooling fan issue solved, I have spare wiring so literally added two terminals to each end and then bridged it . taped up and now jobs a good'n lol. Just need to sort the pipe out now, how do i add pics?? because I can show you guys what I mean then

Nah the fan was fine before hand, someone has said that its open circuit on one of the plugs from the A/C system and to bridge it to see if it stops them. And yeah thats where its blowing from, basically there isnt enough of the stud from the turbo sticking through the cooler pipe so I cant bolt it down tight, therefore blowing past, il try the silicone too once I've had the joining part of the pipe ground down so that I can secure it firmly to the turbo.

lol what plug did u put the clip in?? because I've got two, one for the A/C fan and another for some form of sensor which may be a pressure switch. Im guessing that the cooling fans will still operate as normal after putting in the paper clip??

All sorted now had a friend with a HKS BOV so managed to put together a bit of piping and its fine now , just have boost leak from the turbo at the turbo outlet pipe and for some reason have the cooling fans running non stop with ignition on and with car running

Sweet I have it all fitted now, managed to source a HKS dump valve and put together some piping. But now Have two issues, firstly where the turbo outlet pipe connects to the turbo. The new pipe thats gone in its place has a thicker surface area so the studs go through but one has hardly any thread to grip so it cant hit boost as the air drops straight out, that should be easily solved though by rubbing it down and making it flatter hopefully to about the original pipes spec. Second fault is the fact the coolant fan is constamtly running when ignition on and engine running regardless of temp, disconnected battery but still no luck

Hey guys, have fitted the toyosports cooler but now have stumbled into an issue. The problem is blitz dump valve that was on the original piping from the turbo will not fit the new intercooler piping as it was bolted directly on and the new piping just has a tube. Im guessing i need an adaptor or a new BOV

Hi guys,

Just bought a toyosport FMIC and am in the process of fitting now. All the cooler is fitted etc other than the dump valve which is where my problem lies. The blitz valve is bolted straight to the pipe connecting to the turbo and on the intercooler piping it has a small tube. Im guessing i need some sort of adaptor to fit it, which is a huuuuge arse ache as I was hoping to finish it today. When i bought the car it already had that dump valve so I had no original adaptors . If anyone can help then id be greatful

PS ignore the EFI bit

Okay thanks, im a little short for cash atm as baby and house are raiding my bank account but I am defo interested in the TD04 convert . Time to rip A/C out in prep for FMIC I think. Thanks for your help all

Lol, yh i saw some kits after searching yesterday and they were around a grand for the kit, Not including the cooler. Also I just realised that if i was to remove the A/C then the compressor would have to come out too. Which would mean a shorter belt would have to be fitted as it still runs the P.A.S system. Do I get a shorter belt or leave it on?? Id imagine the shorter belt option as leaving the compressor on would kinda defy the point of removal to save weight lol. Thoughts guys?? Thanks

lol fair enough I know the turbo itself isnt exactly expensive but the manifold and downpipe as you say is relatively expensive. Also injectors and ECU would surely come into the equation?? Its a common conversion so must be loads of links about

TD04 was what my original plan was but have other commitments i.e a little boy of 3 weeks. What sort of cost am I looking at for the conversion??

Nice sounds good i think my mind has been made up lol. May order one tonight then cheers peeps

Nice thanks guys, I think im just stuck in that safe procedure routine as i have to do it at work lol. Think il just open up the low pressure valve and let it drain over night and going back to my first question is the toyosport's cooler kit any good??

Think thats gonna be my best option then ey?? gonna have to take it into work on sat and drain it, then I can begin the process of removal. Do you know if its a big job to remove??

Could try brimming it. It didnt work for me but thats what I was advised to do by others at a meet, so mine is still on, just havnt had time to do any further diagnosis. Other than that may be worth checking the wiring to it. Sorry cant be more helpful