GP82

The strong td05’s come from the older evo’s, the td05h’s, very robust turbo’s, but requires different manifold. A factory td05 16g is a great all round reliable turbo, best turbo for fast road street imo and will net 300hp. They do some real fancy one's now if you look. The Tomei turbo's are currently on sale which are superrrb imo.

You can't go much wrong with a VF setup like a 24, 28, 29, 30, 34. The A/R size of the exhaust turbine housings on the Japanese turbos are labelled in metric (mm), so for example a P18 equals to 0.71 inch using conversion 18 divide 25.4 (mm to inch). I would not recommend a smaller turbine housing on a 4E or 5E then a P18. It’s not like you will not make 300hp from a P15 housing, but you will be restricting flow up top and will have to go conservative on the tune because of high egt's when you push boost pressure ratio to reach target hp and y'all know a 4E, 5E can easily spin to 7 - 8k rpm. Apologies I don’t talk garrett

Yes Dan good driving!

I want to see the GT in action again.

The vids with the VF setup were mad, proper street machine.

www.ebay.ie/itm/x2-Maxsport-185-60-14-RB5-Moulded-Slick-Tarmac-Rally-Tyres-185-60-R14-Hard-/141733371511?hash=item20fff79e77:g:FUkAAOSwgQ9VvGhn

what you guys think is it worth it

These tyres are good dry, warm surface condition only. You cannot drive a car in wet conditions with these tyres also be prepared to have some crazy road noise from them, soo loud it gets you thinking something wrong with the car. Personally semi slick tyre i'm a Yoko AO48 medium compound guy, they jus' work so well on my setup. If you wanna get more mileage outta them you go hard compound at the compromise of little less grip until you get heat in them. The medium compound are reccommended for use upto 6k miles. I always manage to get between 8 and 9k miles. I think this is because the EP is a very light car and also makes them worth buying.

Remember to check clearence with plasticgauge

Good advice! X2 good to check clearences with plastiguage for a visual reference, it's good practice because a bearing can potentially be marked wrong. I used a telescopic bore gauge to check the mainline tunnel and big end's then plastiguage for the visual reference.

See how it goes with the stock injectors, they should be more then enough. If for any reason you running outta fuel jus' go the next size up like a 315cc or maybe 330

I have ran upto 25 psi on the stock ignition and it has been fine with iridium plugs, stock leads. As said when all the ignition parts are in good condition it will be fine.

Really nice work!

Is this done on a CNC machine!?

I'm still in the process of getting all the parts together.

Nice video!

Great run. Car looks good, sound's and goes well!

You done diagnostics check!?

It's a great hybrid this. The best one in my opinion although I ran a gen 2 which did not have the 360 thrust bearing so maybe gen 3 can push little more boost. Purchase it from Speedvision as there are hoax one's on ebay.

You have to cut the sides the socket, so the bit that protrudes when you tighten, so it can clear the bucket/shim housing on the cylinder head.

Just putting this here.

http://www.ukstarletowners.com/topic/98746-pro-gram-billet-main-caps-toyota-13l-4efte/

Was wondering it would be good to know which main cap broke on engines that have had this issue. On the pictures above the user said it was cap no: 1, closest to the timing belt.

Would be good to know if this a common trend on engines running at this power level for future reference and you have been warned, if your going for this sort of power level, just keep this in mind. I don’t think it’s worth the risk especially when you put in this much money into build.

I have emailed arp regarding 12mm head stud’s and I’m gonna pilot it on a spare cylinder block and head to see it can be done with no issues. I cannot risk trying it on my engine as there is a lot of work already done to it. Stay tuned guy’s I’m gonna pulling the motor out soon and start to collect the parts required.

those same names crossed me mind

and spool on a 4e maybe very different to spool on other engines

for that type of power, i'd assume race gas is a must, unless he runs a very low boost street tune on pump gas, which would have its own drawbacks

last few gt30 graphs seem a bit on the laggy side and that's even on a 5e

i'm all for exotic builds and i respect the fact that the OP wants to do it the right way the first time,,,and is doing his research

i hope he can get in contact with some of these high power builder/owners,,,, however, if certain trade secrets from garages/builders/owners are involved, it maybe hard to get full information-------as much as we like free asymmetrical information on the forums, some businesses/engineers/builders/owners work hard to get an edge and we have to respect them for wanting to hold that edge

Thanks for your input.

You can compare with other setups regarding spool time and useable power bands, but this turbo you cannot compare it to a garrett.

Yes I understand not everyone will share all there knowledge, tips and tricks, but from all the info I have gathered over the years, from speaking to members, engine builders, tuners I think I have a good idea of what’s required atleast I hope so.

4E will need billet mains and or girdle.

ARP headbolts start to yield around 1.7 bar, 400bhp ish. After that studs will do.

I'm sure Phil will be able to chime in here, but I thought I remembered hearing Spuddy say he/ ECC used to pull the sump after very short periods (can't remember off the top of my head) and check the bearing shells.

Keeping the motor reliable relies on meticulous maintenance, the way you're making it sound is that you want it to be able to do 10k mileage and not have to do nothing other than change the oil... Excuse me if I've got the wrong end of the stick here.

There's so many issues here that would need addressing, I would be building another motor rather than using one that's already been thrashed.

I am gonna be taking my engine out soon. It’s covered approx. 50k running just over 300 hp and 20 + psi boost pressure. I will get pictures of the all the bearing’s to see what condition they are in. I think if there is no issues with alignment, cap walk, good oil clearances, using good and right grade of oil and correct oil pressure, there should not be a problem. I am aiming to make this a minimal maintaince motor regarding changing bearing’s every so often. I think the most damage to the bearings occur’s on cold starts.

Yeah sure I will.

I see what your saying with the ARP studs that have a higher torque down value and so a bigger clamping force which could cause stress on the stock caps, but I don't think this was the case because the engine ran for many year's and covered many miles and so I would have expected this too happen much earlier in the engine's life.

Yeah steam pipe SC40 get's my vote. Very tough and last's many heat cycle's and test of time. Only thing is it can get surface rust, but this does not affect anything performance wise.

Even with the stronger main caps, there will still be cap walk and something's gonna come flying out the block. Some sort of girdle to go with the caps will be good I think...

Think Dylan's running 550 or so on his road car.

Spuddys motor maybe not a great one think they went pretty mental on block strength so cooling may be out the window on a road car. (Concrete in water ways etc I think)

I'd say your going about it the right way.

Fuel with mainland 100ron fuel or e85 you should be grand

Look forward to seeing how you get on.

What's your IHI turbo?

Phil

Thanks Phil.

Yeah won't be filling the block because road car, but I am looking into ideas for upper cylinder block strength.

The core of the turbo is a Ihi RX6D with custom trims and housings to achieve the power aim. Would you believe it the turbo is like 4 times the size of a ct9, but weighs half of the weight of a ct9. Very light components in there with very tight tolerances is what makes it able to spool up relatively quick.

Totally useable

Why not?! I use boost by gear. Good supsension setup and tyres will help, but that's something to work around after.

So you want a 600bhp EP as a road car? Blimey.

Look up Spuddy/AnimalGT/Zisco's/Dylan's builds. I don't think any of the Irish boys are running billet caps.

If you hit 600 bhp at 25psi on a 4e with that turbo and GT30 spool on road fuel I'll come to wherever you are and shake your hand.

Thanks Robsr,

I have checked out Spuddy's build and also spoke with AnimalGT over PM's. What amazing builds they are and proof that it can be done with the right ingredients in the recipe. I am going to check out the monstorous build's that are Dylan's and Zisco.

I think with the main caps, it is hit and miss because they are cast, but in a high hp build I don't think it's worth the risk.

I have seen many engines survive and quite a few that have been let down.

Here is pictures of a 4EFTE that was running approx. 300 hp. It ran with the same tune for many year's and covered many miles.

You look at the bearings closely, there is signs of cap walk from the vector force of the crankshaft and has gone to the weak point on the cap and finished it off. I Have also read of many examples of the caps breaking on this forum so I don't think it's worth the risk.

Although I have 9:1 CR pistons, the final C/R is going to be considerably lower and car will only be ran on road fuel Shell 99 nitro. Boost pressure ratio for now is just approx., but can push more to reach hp aim.

I will come and shake your hand, I've been following your new build with interest and looks good.

if i was going for that power i wouldnt be using a 4e or 5e engine. I would be going for a B18 or k20 honda engine, tried and tested for years at much higher power figures.

I believe the 4efte is more then capable.

Robsr I already have a motor I built myself a few years ago. I'm gonna refresh all the bearings and I wanna strengthen the rotating assembly with main caps and girdle + ideally bigger head studs.

Engine spec is cp 9:1 c/r pistons solid wrist pins, carillo h beam rods. Cylinder head has been ported + polished with stiffer springs.

Turbocharger is an Ihi that can outflow a garrett gt35, but spool up is closer to a gt30. Professional race and rally teams use this turbo. Definantley not a slap on and see what happens. Infact I'm approaching it with caution. Car will be used to drive on the road so not a exercise to see what numbers i can get. More to get a good drive out of it and make the build as full proof as it can get so i can have peace of mind. That's why I posted to maybe see if anyone who had aimed for similar power level come across any other issues that could be worked around to ensure reliabilty.

The bolts will not be reliable at this power level i am sure, definantley not consistently.

Yeah that's boost pressure, but the airflow through the engine will increase considerably and so the cylinder pressures will go sky high. I known of engines that have lifted the head with the 10mm studs at approx. 400hp. Yeah sure the engine performed but started to lift the head after covering 10 - 15k mileage. I want be sure the engine lasts with consistent hard use.

Okay Your points taken thank you. I just want to collect as much info to build a reliable engine. If you do not ask, share and talk about this where there is a big audience specific for the platform then you will not know all.

I'm sure there are users of this forum that have built engines for this level of power successfully.