Faiyaz.123 Posted April 25, 2016 Share Posted April 25, 2016 Ok so here goes a long story.I have a glanza 4efte.forged.Freshly built and driven for about 350km so far.2 months ago while driving oil light came on the gauge .pressure dropped and car switched off.i checked the engine bay and noticed the timing belt had come off.Took it to a garage and had it checked and seen the oil pump had siezed.i bought another genuine pump and fitted .now I wasn't there when it was started up but they say they started up the car and was fine into 2mins of idling and loud noises they switched off .checked up and seen the new pump had siezed again .puzzled they gave my car back to me.Please note when engine was built it was all new parts added in.So I went and bought another oil pump. Brought it home and had my buddy alain look at it .we dropped the sump had a look took off the oil strainer and fitted a genuine o ring in it since it seemed a bit worn like it was not replaced by the guys who did the block. We changed the o ring and oil relief valve to be on the safe side with genuine parts from toyota again .checked up bearings seemed fine smooth.Assured we found the fault thinking it was the o ring on strainer we sealed up everything fitted the oil pump new seals with. And decided to crank the motor with leads out to prime. But failed ..We cranked and again no pressure building .dash oil light also stayed on .now this above mentioned process we carried out again to ensure we didn't miss anything and again cranked it and still no pressure .We left it , thinking what could be wrong. A month later we had a look at it drained all the oil again put fresh new oil and filter . Determined to get it started cranked it again and again and still no pressure .I have an oil cooler as well .so we thought it had to full up as well probably .but still no oil pressure. We then took of the 17 size bolt which is in between the oil filter housing bolts .and decided to pour oil through there abit and tried cranking leaving that open .and bang light went off and pressure started building .We connected the leads back and fired it up, let it Idle for a good 15 to 20minutes everything was fine till it warmed up completely. Pressure was sitting at about (0.7) bar.We thought let's change the oils to shell 15w40 and try it out .so the next day drained all the oil and put back new 15w40 shell oil. Checked everything again went to start it up and no pressure all the lights were on ..frustrated with it I left it there .at night came back and pulled off the oil cooler and Sandwich plate. So I have no oil pressure and oil temp gauge connected at the moment .started it up and with in 20 seconds seeing the light is still not going off on dash.(at this moment I felt like burning the car down)But again took off that same 17 bolt on the oil filter housing and poured oil and it fired up with lights all gone .Now I'm puzzled as to what can be the problem why does it keep wanting me to put oil through there.Sorry for the insane long write up but I had to clear what's been done .alot I haven't written. But hopefully some one sheds some light here .pics can be posted up of the 17 bolt I'm talking about ok oil filter housing. Please shed some light here some serious led bright ones .lol Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ollieh17 Posted April 25, 2016 Share Posted April 25, 2016 I would say 15w40 is probably a bit to thick to start with. I had a similar issue when first starting and poured oil straight down the oil filter housing and cranked it for a bit and all was fine. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
patman Posted April 25, 2016 Share Posted April 25, 2016 Another thing to look at have you definitely got a glanza oil pump on, not a GT pump, are you 100% sure the block is from a glanza and not a GT, oil pump seal on oil pump for GT, oil pump seal on block for glanza. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Faiyaz.123 Posted April 26, 2016 Author Share Posted April 26, 2016 (edited) I would say 15w40 is probably a bit to thick to start with. I had a similar issue when first starting and poured oil straight down the oil filter housing and cranked it for a bit and all was fine.What weight of oil is used for running in the motor in uk ?and what was your oil pressure reading after you started it ?Another thing to look at have you definitely got a glanza oil pump on, not a GT pump, are you 100% sure the block is from a glanza and not a GT, oil pump seal on oil pump for GT, oil pump seal on block for glanza.205% seal on block .1st thing i made sure when getting the pumps. Edited April 26, 2016 by Faiyaz.123 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ollieh17 Posted April 26, 2016 Share Posted April 26, 2016 Im using 10w40 but on a different car(specific running in oil) would prefer 5w40. I didnt have a gauge. Just waited for the light to go out. Other option i have heard is pack the oil pump with vaseline to help draw a vaccum Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Faiyaz.123 Posted April 26, 2016 Author Share Posted April 26, 2016 (edited) Im using 10w40 but on a different car(specific running in oil) would prefer 5w40. I didnt have a gauge. Just waited for the light to go out. Other option i have heard is pack the oil pump with vaseline to help draw a vaccumI was running shell 10w40. And that's when all the problems started .so I assumed I more thicker oil would help.and thing is when I drained the oil , why when I refilled it with oil the oil light did not go off neither did the oil pressure going up. But again when I poured oil through the oil filter housing,everything came right.I just need to get a seal for oil sandwhich plate so I can reconnect my oil pressure gauge to see what's the reading .and if it will be safe to drive. Edited April 26, 2016 by Faiyaz.123 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ollieh17 Posted April 26, 2016 Share Posted April 26, 2016 sometimes you just have to risk it and start it. Constantly cranking wipes the oil off the bearings eventually anyway! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Flaminsam Posted April 26, 2016 Share Posted April 26, 2016 First off like you say check the oil pick up pipe. Changed the o ring as in the description above which is good. Sounds to me like you have an air leak somewhere on the suction side to the pump. Air is a lot easier to suck than a liquid and even harder is oil to suck up to the oil pump. When you remove the 17mm banjo from the oil filter housing you are in effect priming the pump with oil allowing it to start the suction process from the sump. Sounds to me like you may have a leak from either a gasket or possibly a cracked block on the suction side. Also the oil coolers are a good idea in principle but it's takes quite a bit of oil to fill and pressurise pipes before the engine (big end shells and mains) gets any oil pressure. On another thought could the oil from the cooler and pipes be returning to the sump in effect emptying the pump and the pump is trying to move air instead of oil? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
patman Posted April 26, 2016 Share Posted April 26, 2016 (edited) 0.7 bar (10psi) still seems low to me when warmed up at idle, I know apparently toyota say 7psi, but lots on here have always said lowest for oil pressure is 1bar (14psi) Edited April 26, 2016 by patman Quote Link to post Share on other sites
patman Posted April 26, 2016 Share Posted April 26, 2016 Also oil pump to block should only be torqued to 7nm Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Faiyaz.123 Posted April 26, 2016 Author Share Posted April 26, 2016 First off like you say check the oil pick up pipe. Changed the o ring as in the description above which is good. Sounds to me like you have an air leak somewhere on the suction side to the pump. Air is a lot easier to suck than a liquid and even harder is oil to suck up to the oil pump. When you remove the 17mm banjo from the oil filter housing you are in effect priming the pump with oil allowing it to start the suction process from the sump. Sounds to me like you may have a leak from either a gasket or possibly a cracked block on the suction side. Also the oil coolers are a good idea in principle but it's takes quite a bit of oil to fill and pressurise pipes before the engine (big end shells and mains) gets any oil pressure. On another thought could the oil from the cooler and pipes be returning to the sump in effect emptying the pump and the pump is trying to move air instead of oil?The car was driven with the oil cooler and I had 1 bar or pressure .I've taken out the cooler now .tomorrow I will hopefully fit the sandwhich plate and re connect my gauges to see the reading on them.If any air is being sucked into the block will it effect the idling of the car ?0.7 bar (10psi) still seems low to me when warmed up at idle, I know apparently toyota say 7psi, but lots on here have always said lowest for oil pressure is 1bar (14psi)What is the stock oil switch of glanza at ? 1 bar or lower ? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Faiyaz.123 Posted April 28, 2016 Author Share Posted April 28, 2016 So I've tried everything replacing seals etc...seems like will be stripping the motor soon to see what the hell is going on eyh Quote Link to post Share on other sites
boostPGG82 Posted May 18, 2016 Share Posted May 18, 2016 hey guys... is this post still circulating or in discussion... i kind of have the same problem and I've found a probable cause.... its only a theory atm. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Faiyaz.123 Posted June 18, 2016 Author Share Posted June 18, 2016 Hey guys finally car is sorted. And an update just pulled the banjo bolt by oil filter housing and poured little oil through and oil light immediately went off .and started building pressure. Still abit sketchy but I think that's to do with cheap throttle cable being stretched. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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