Swapping a 4e-fte for a 4e-fe

[RabNo1]

OK my better half snapped a con rod in our GT. The cars a rough daily driver that never really gets driven hard and right now I don't have much money to put it right.

So my plan is to go find 4e-fe from a scrappy at less than quarter the price of a 4e-fte and drop that in.

I'll strip the fe right down to basically the head and block and swap everything across from the fte.

Anyone done it? I've read of at least one guy on another forum has done it and the engine lasted 2+ years before he sold it.

Any ideas on a cheap and cheerful way to sort out the fueling?

I have basically 0 funds and need this thing back on the road asap.

[5e colin]

I am ,just runm on the Na block till the turbo block is fixed

[RabNo1]

Standard ecu, fueling, etc?

[daniel_g]

Im using a 4efe boosted just now. Its holding out fine at 0.6bar.

All you really need to do is swap the sump and strap the lot to the N/a block. May aswell use a FTE rocker cover too.

Just make sure the N/a block has a hole threaded for the knock sensor, some dont.

Swap the thermo housing over aswell.

[RabNo1]

Where is the knock sensor, on the back of the block? 0.6 bar isn't that just standard boost on a GT? My car is 100% bog standard GT auto.

[daniel_g]

Yeah man back of the block between 1 & 2 iirc.

Yeah wouldnt push any harder on a 4efe you find in a sportif or whatever.

The earlier Gen1 JDM 4efe are stronger (thicker rods) but quite hard to find in the UK.

[RabNo1]

As I said I'm only ruing standard boost anyway.

What else will I find the 4e-fe in the starlet and corolla, anything else? What year are they upto 98?

[richardc9052]

They run well on standard fuelling etc on standard ecu. Had my eu spec 4efe to 0.8 no problems. Might have been me you where talking to... If you plan on staying standard then 4efe turbo is much better. More torque, less lag, better fuel economy. Just cant take them to the fte limiter of 7200rpm as you will get valve float around 6900rpm. Not sure that affects you with an auto box?

[RabNo1]

I'm guessing the valve float could be solved by swapping out the fe vavle springs for the fte ones.

I've read the cam is a different profile too, if i bother swapping the sprins i might as well swap that too. I probably wont bother straight away i just need he thing running.

I've never really paid that much attention but i think the autobox changes at 6500~6750rpm it might go all the way if the 'PWR' button is pushed, I should ask the mrs shell probably know, it was her that snapped the rod

My biggest worry was the fueling, just happy to hear the standard ecu is up to the job.

I'm of to search the scrappers tomorrow.

[richardc9052]

I wouldn't bother fixing valve float as the pistons are heavy and use cast rings unlike the steel ones on an FTE. So going past where valve float occurs isn't the best idea anyway.

[RabNo1]

Cheers for the info.

Turns out someone has a monopoly over the old Toyota engines round here. All 3 of my local scrappers sell them to one place and that place wouldn't sell me an engine even though they had 2 corolla's sitting there.

Told me there's too much money in them and they export them all.