jjullienn Posted June 13, 2016 Share Posted June 13, 2016 Hello all ! After having owned a1986 EP71 for 3 years, I decided few month ago to instal a 4EFTE in it !Thanks to the help of some very good threads in this forum (Taggy, Grant, Charlotte just to name of few) it wasn't to difficult to get the engine in and it even happen to start !! YAY! But, there are still some pipes/wiring I'm not sure about...and here you guys come ! First of all, the engine will start without any difficulties but then it won't stop when I turn back the key to the ACC position... If I want to stop the engine I must do these two things : - Turn the key to the ACC (off) position- Remove the negative pole of the batteryIf I do either one of these two things it won't stop the engine. I do have to do both. I'm pretty sure the issue is not coming from the ignition key. I linked the EP71 and ep 91 loom at the ignition key. I got rid of the EP91 ignition barrel and when I turn the key in the EP71 barrel, it gives exactly the same signal to the EP91 loom that the EP91 barrel used to do. Another clue to that issue, is when I turn the key back to ACC, the engine sound is slightly different. Beside that, I have a couple of question to reconnect the last wires and pipes I think I got the engine with some mods already made cause : - The turbo actuator is an HKS with only one nozzle connected to the turbo- The blowoff vavle plastic nozzle looks broken but I don't know if I should really connect that nozzle to somewhere...- The hi/low solenoid wasn't used since the it's electrical connector coming from the loom was blocked. Here come the pics : One last pipe: And the turbo actuator with only one nozzle : Sorry for the size of the pics...they are all viewable in a convenient size when cliking at them. Thanks to all to your help ! Julien. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JDMfreak Posted June 13, 2016 Share Posted June 13, 2016 Hello all ! After having owned a1986 EP71 for 3 years, I decided few month ago to instal a 4EFTE in it !Thanks to the help of some very good threads in this forum (Taggy, Grant, Charlotte just to name of few) it wasn't to difficult to get the engine in and it even happen to start !! YAY! But, there are still some pipes/wiring I'm not sure about...and here you guys come ! First of all, the engine will start without any difficulties but then it won't stop when I turn back the key to the ACC position... If I want to stop the engine I must do these two things : - Turn the key to the ACC (off) position- Remove the negative pole of the batteryIf I do either one of these two things it won't stop the engine. I do have to do both. I'm pretty sure the issue is not coming from the ignition key. I linked the EP71 and ep 91 loom at the ignition key. I got rid of the EP91 ignition barrel and when I turn the key in the EP71 barrel, it gives exactly the same signal to the EP91 loom that the EP91 barrel used to do. Another clue to that issue, is when I turn the key back to ACC, the engine sound is slightly different. Beside that, I have a couple of question to reconnect the last wires and pipes I think I got the engine with some mods already made cause : - The turbo actuator is an HKS with only one nozzle connected to the turbo- The blowoff vavle plastic nozzle looks broken but I don't know if I should really connect that nozzle to somewhere...- The hi/low solenoid wasn't used since the it's electrical connector coming from the loom was blocked. Here come the pics : 4 Is for low brake fluid sensor3 would have gone to solenoid for hi low feature for actuator on standard they have 2 outlets you can block this2 unsure of this plug i presume it was for a solenoid the gt starlet had near back of timing casing1 1 if its the pipe it goes onto the icv valve One last pipe: these are usually left unplugged these sensors and the blue pipe you have running from throttle bodie is blocked a pipe from the carbon canister goes on hereAnd the turbo actuator with only one nozzle : Sorry for the size of the pics...they are all viewable in a convenient size when cliking at them. Thanks to all to your help ! Julien. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jjullienn Posted June 14, 2016 Author Share Posted June 14, 2016 Thanks a lot mate ! I think 2 and 5 must be connected...can someone confirm? Is it ok to block 2 and leave 5 open ? Sorry asking again, just want to be very sure So I can get rid of pipe number 6 and the valve connected to it ? and block the nozzle coming from the throttle body ? Also I read on some thread I can get rid of those two hoses (pics below) and the valves they are connected to. Is that ok to just get rid of them ? What the use of them ? I heard they are for the AC but I once marked them as Vaccuum EGR Valve sensor...I'm really confused :S Does anyone has an idea why I can't stop the engine just by turning the key back to ACC ? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
EP70-PT Posted June 14, 2016 Share Posted June 14, 2016 Gremlins, gotta love them ahah Quote Link to post Share on other sites
morgey Posted June 15, 2016 Share Posted June 15, 2016 Sounds like your ignition system is on your acc circuit not on your on circuit.Im assuming your Barrel goes Off/lockAccOnStartAcc is usually just general stuff like radio, fan blower maybe. It sounds like your ignition relay is somehow powered by the acc circuit, radio supply maybe?. But without seeing how youve done it its very hard to say exactly whats happening. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
EP70-PT Posted June 15, 2016 Share Posted June 15, 2016 There's a thread on here that shows the ignition wiring on the barrel quite well, check your wires, you might have switched some Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jjullienn Posted June 16, 2016 Author Share Posted June 16, 2016 Thanks guys ! Wish the gremlins could connect all these hoses in the right place ;) At Morgey : Actually, the engine starts normally when I turn the barrel to the "start" position. Once the engine is turned on, I cannot stop it with the key. I even can remove the key while the engine is running.Also, the engine I got came with a remote start controller (so fancy haha) that I got rid of. But when it was one the loom I guess the engine was capable of running without a key...that might explain this issue... At EP70-PT: Do you have an idea where is that thread ? Could find it... Also, do you know what controls the engine stop ? Is there any relay ? Also guys, can you tell if I can get rid of the two sensors I showed to you? From my internet search, they seems to be related to the A/C but I am not sure 100%. Thanks to all for the good hand ! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
EP70-PT Posted June 16, 2016 Share Posted June 16, 2016 http://www.ukstarletowners.com/topic/48672-ep70-engine-conversion-guide-4e-fte-power/Here you go mate! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jjullienn Posted June 27, 2016 Author Share Posted June 27, 2016 Hello ! Thanks for all your replies ! I finally figured out why I couldn't stop the engine and it's really not because of greemlins haha I actually just inverted two wires when connecting the ep91 wires to the ep71 wires...The ep91 ignition barrel was giving the right connection to the right wires but the ep71 was giving a 12V to an ep91 wire which should have gotten 0V... Actually it's pretty simple to make it right the first time: the ep71 ignition barrel mentions the use of each wire so do the ep91 barrel black plug. So you just have to connect the same wires together...pretty simple and easy Concerning the two sensors I was mentionning in my previous post, I just removed them and the engine sounds all fine...I hope it was really related to the AC haha Thanks again guys. Julien. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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