New or Not So New Glanza?!

[YellowGlanza]

Hi all,

right this post is more than likey in the wrong place (sorry)

lets start from the top, I'm completely new to all this and don't really know what I'm doing (lol)

I'm running a TD04 on stock internals - using a SARD fuel pressure regulator and fuel cut defender. (backyard modification i know)

I've completely rebuilt the 4EFTE from the ground up and want to run it as safe as possible (having spent more than i wanted to and replaced literally everything!)

i'm nearing the end of the rebuild, and wanting to run a safer option than i am currently.. Ie. an ECU of some sort.

ive noticed alot of you guys either run the Emanage blue or ultimate.

I'm edging towards to Blue to keep the final costs down, but my problems are - i want to be as safe as possible while running it in - so i want to get an ECU.. do they come with a base map that i can just 'potter' around in to make up 500 miles or so, or do i have to get a full map on 'said' ECU?

I.E. can i run on the current set up for the 500 miles then buy an ECU and get a map or is it best to get the ECU straight away and go down that route?

I've read that its best to find a mapper, then buy the ECU that the mapper is familiar with and go down that route.

i'm literally stuck with everything, so any help that any of you can give will be a great help.

where are the best places to get a map on any ECU that is as close as possible to Somerset (Southwest)

[Calum122]

To be honest, the thing tht's going to cause you grief is the fueling.

A map is basically two parts, the ignition timing and the fueling.

When runiing a TD04, where you need fueling most is where the ECU cuts out for a CT9 due to it running out of puff, or where the TD04 gets going.

So a FPR can richen the mixture across the board, making it rich at low RPMs., but fine when you are nailing it.

That's safe enough. My brother has ran tens of thousands of miles on his WEPR TD04 with a CT9 ECU and an FPR.

The piggy back ECU's can only alter the timing so much, but can sort the fueling out across the board. Meaning that you can have the mixture right down through the rev range.

But how you do it depends on how you are going to drive the car.

if you are going to drive it like you stole it, then do it properly and go standalone and sort it all out.

If you understand that it's a compromise and only nail it now and then and check AFR's, then the tried and tested method of richening the mixture using a FPR works.

[Ryncewind]

Nice to see another yellow one about! Looks really clean too! Hope to see you at some shows!

[Gainzy]

Fuel cut defender off, stock fpr on, stock injectors on, aftermarket fuel pump?? Thee emb does not remove speed limiter the emu can kust bare that in mind or you can get a convertor. I would drive to a good tuner that can work with your parts, everything is in the map! I would suggest a AEM air fuel gauge to. Id do a fresh oil change after driving to the tuners but that's just me. After all the hard work don't skimp put the good money into it!

[Fozzie]

As Gainzy said. I would also think it wise to cap the boost on the TD04 at 0.6 Bar and install an AFR gauge while you're running it in, just so you can keep an eye on it.

[YellowGlanza]

Thanks for all the replies, I have a AFR guage, oil pressure guage and boost guage that I will wire in before its finished,

I'm currently driving an EP3 type r as a daily, but will more than likely end up driving the starlet full time when it's done (so won't be driving it like I've stolen it, atleast not all the time)

Everything fuel wise -injectors and fuel pump etc is all still standard.

So tbh I can run the setup I am currently for the running in period (with an AFR guage etc) then when it comes to afterwards, it'd be best to get an ecu for a proper map? Where are the best places to get a map? (Not too worried about distance as I originally thought I'd have to trailer it there)

I'm not too worried about removing the speed limiter, for daily use I'll never go near 112mph so that's not a problem.

[Gainzy]

You will need a 255 fuel pump. You forged engine? I wouldn't run anything in without working gauge's. TD04 is top end performance..you will want that restriction removed ha fit the fpr when you go for the map and buy an ebc if you have not already. The map is the key. I think you should drive the distance wear the engine in take the trailer incase any problems arise. Put your full spec up incase your missing something else..

[YellowGlanza]

Okay, is the fuel pump just a plug and play? Or do I have to map that in? Nah, replaced everything with standard internals (didn't have the funds to go forged)

Oh I see, removed for the power run?

What's an ebc? Boost controller? Any recommendations?

I went down the route of a 'bleed valve' but had very little luck with controlling the boost. It ended up boosting at 25psi for a second or so, and ended up running rough ever since.

I'll try and put everything up that I can think of.. (I took the car off the road in 2014 - delayed rebuild because of lack of experience.

Engine wise

4efte

Standard internals

Lightened flywheel

Stage 2 exedy clutch

Civic radiator

SARD rrfpr

Fuel cut defender

WEPR ram horn manifold, external waste gate w/ screamer pipe

TD04 (hybrid I think)

Edited February 4, 2017 by YellowGlanza