Dansstarlet1996 Posted June 25, 2017 Author Share Posted June 25, 2017 cheers man got the insurance sorted, she'll be out on the 1st of june! so be going on a nice long drive to get to know her as long as its nice and sunny Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Dansstarlet1996 Posted July 2, 2017 Author Share Posted July 2, 2017 Took the SR out yesterday for the first time, gave her a good run around the island, the most fun car I've ever owned! loved every second of it, had to good long drive, found it pretty lively on vvt, bit front heavy too, but other than that was amazing! felt good to have something pretty nippy too, put a bmw 328i in his place too, fully loaded with his mates it looked like, m stickers and badges everywhere, lowered etc, revving at me. the look on his face as he got 4 car lengths pulled on him felt pretty good Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Dansstarlet1996 Posted July 4, 2017 Author Share Posted July 4, 2017 over the last few days having taken the car out and been out with a few mates in similar style jap hatches, decided i need to rebuild with more power went out in a mates ek4 with a 2.0 b16b, found the 240hp it gave out to be a little bit fun and i like the idea of having a rival car to target. so aim will be to reach 200hp. managed to get a list of bits together on RHD japan, tegiwa and some other sites. Chassis:-Meister R coilovers-possibly some polybushing Engine:-Tomei high lift cams-TRD 0.8 headgasket-Sard magnetic oil filter-ARP head studs-Toda racing VVT adjustable pully-Toda racing adjustable cam pulley-Toda racing high power cambelt-Toda racing uprated valve springs-Tomei reinforced flywheel bolts-Tomei reinforced mainstud and ladder bolts-Sard low temp thermostat-Toda racing exhaust gasket-Jubride throttle funnel screens-Tec art large air funnel set G.box-toms lightened flywheel (already got that)-exedy stage 1 clutch-possibly an lsd theyre the main ones may change while im collecting parts, will be replacing all the oil seals etc so should be a near new engine! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
morgey Posted July 4, 2017 Share Posted July 4, 2017 200hp from a 1.6 20v is a big ask, you'll want high comp pistons, stronger rods and a lot of revs.Id expect around 180hp with what you've mentioned if you get it mapped up. Dont rev the stock 20v rods too much as they are the big weak point.If youre really serious id build a 7age. 1.8 4afe bottom end but 20v pistons and 20v head or buy a manon racing products (MRP) 9age kit and youll be set for 240hp and 10k rpm 😁 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Dansstarlet1996 Posted July 4, 2017 Author Share Posted July 4, 2017 haha i see, i may have to bring my sights down a little bit then! im hoping the flywheel and some other handling mods should make it better, wasnt far behind the civic, only about a car length, but still would be nice to suprise some other stuff Quote Link to post Share on other sites
morgey Posted July 4, 2017 Share Posted July 4, 2017 Id say you did pretty well if that was 240hp, i got dicked by a relatively stock 98 spec dc2 type R. Saying that, It did run 14.1 1/4's with a boot full of shit somehow. Weight saving will be the best route with this, refresh the engine, get it tuned then set about reducing the cars weight, a passenger in mine makes such a huge difference. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Dansstarlet1996 Posted July 4, 2017 Author Share Posted July 4, 2017 having had a quick read up seems to be the main failiure point on the blacktops is the rods as you said, found a few different ones, dont know if anyone can give any advice on a good brand or if the ones in the links are any good. https://shop.battlegarage-rs.com/products/mrp-4age-h-beam-connecting-rods http://www.spoolimports.com/spool-conrods/toyota/4age-conrods/toyota-4a-gze-4a-ge-conrods Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Dansstarlet1996 Posted July 4, 2017 Author Share Posted July 4, 2017 (edited) seems like that would be the better route, il look into coilovers to make it stable, stronger rods, headgasket, seals etc, make it run well, and then go from there, could always cage it to stiffen things too. think he showed me the dyno sheet and it was 239.4, so basically 240, but hes heavier, so like you said, lightness is probably the way forward Edited July 4, 2017 by Dansstarlet1996 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Calum122 Posted July 4, 2017 Share Posted July 4, 2017 Ha very sick dude. I forgot to come back to this but I just read it all. That Zisco brace is the tits by the way! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Dansstarlet1996 Posted July 4, 2017 Author Share Posted July 4, 2017 cheers man looking forward to getting out in it some more! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Dansstarlet1996 Posted July 4, 2017 Author Share Posted July 4, 2017 other question i have for some of you more experienced guys, do you think that a 6 point cusco cage would fit with the x brace, or would the cage block the c pillar mounts?? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
morgey Posted July 4, 2017 Share Posted July 4, 2017 Either of them are a good shout, you could use silvertop 20v rods and get them shot peaned and balanced and they would be good for 8500-9000rpm with some arp bolts. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Dansstarlet1996 Posted July 8, 2017 Author Share Posted July 8, 2017 updated my parts list -6 point coll cage (2 seater)-Meister R coilovers-Spool 4AGE pistons and rods http://www.spoolimports.com/spool-conrod-piston-packages/toyota/4age-4agze-conrod-and-piston-package/spool-4age-conrods-and-cp-pistons-20v-blacktop hopefully that should toughen it all up, bottom end stronger, new bolts, bearings etc, should give me the ability to get it mapped more aggressively should i feel the need. going to ditch the toda cam pulleys as it turns out tomei cams use stock pulleys and all id end up doing is making life difficult by adding them. not sure on the bore size i need yet, the pistons seem to be 81.5, so im assuming thats 0.5mm to big to allow for bore honing etc. so if anyone knows better gimme a shout as im new to putting pistons in with the better pistons, cams and trd heagasket hopefully should push a little bit more power! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
morgey Posted July 9, 2017 Share Posted July 9, 2017 Best speak to whoever is going to be building or doing the engine work reguarding the pistons as the block might need boring out. They could also recommend the compression ratio to go for, as with a skim, thinner head gasket?, cams these all play a role in building an engine and moreso in an n/a engine. Also are you having any head work done whilst you're at it? Sent from my SM-G903F using Tapatalk Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Dansstarlet1996 Posted July 9, 2017 Author Share Posted July 9, 2017 not sure yet, was going to polish all the inlet etc, new valve springs, cams, stem seals so its getting some work done. think il have to wait for a lot of it in terms of finding out if the engine needs boring etc as to what pistons i use, think the trd headgasket i was looking at was 0.8mm when compressed, so ups the ratio a little bit anyway, not sure if the pistons do as well or not Quote Link to post Share on other sites
morgey Posted July 9, 2017 Share Posted July 9, 2017 A lot of pistons come in various specs, theres a trd bible for 20v if you can find one online theres heaps of info in that i wouldnt look for the real thing as they fetch a few hundred quid lol. But They have good info building these engines invluding valve angles and all sorts if you ever wanted to get really involved. Sent from my SM-G903F using Tapatalk Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Dansstarlet1996 Posted July 9, 2017 Author Share Posted July 9, 2017 ah sweet, il look into it, see what i can find. cheers man il have to take some time at some point to work it all out as to what the ratio will be and how its going to work out. its going to take a while to collect the parts i want so got plenty of time, il hold back on ordering the pistons until i know what condition the block is in, no point ordering 81.5mm pistons if its already at 82mm or something silly like that. il talk to the guy who im going to get to go over the block to make sure theres A) no problems, and how much work itl need and whether he thinks it should all work together Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Dansstarlet1996 Posted July 9, 2017 Author Share Posted July 9, 2017 (edited) had a quick look online, found the stock compression ratio and then the blacktop with a 0.8mm headgasket, the pistons and rods say they take it to 12. so im assuming that the 0.8 adds 0.5 to the ratio so id be looking at around 12.5? i think, correct me if im wrong as im just throwing ideas and what i think I've worked out off the top of my head http://www.sq-engineering.com/index.php/tech-articles/4age-compression-ratio-chart Edited July 9, 2017 by Dansstarlet1996 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
morgey Posted July 9, 2017 Share Posted July 9, 2017 Yeah that would seem fairly accurate but if you bore out the engine then youll also reduce the compression slightly. According to info on their site a 0.5mm over bore drops the ratio about 0.35 If you run anything over 11.5:1 CR you will 100% want an ecu and a tune. You will also have to run it on premium fuel, but you should be doing that anyway with a 20v. The main reason i never bother building my old 16v engine was because of all the deciding factors to making a good engine. There wasnt any off the shelf engine packages that guaranteed 170hp-120lbft with good drivablility, you could build it but it was a minefield haha Sent from my SM-G903F using Tapatalk Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Dansstarlet1996 Posted July 9, 2017 Author Share Posted July 9, 2017 thats what im finding! haha after having another look around I've found that Spool sports do a kit for the bottom end rebuild, pistons, rods gaskets etc etc, so could look into that, then keep the bits i had in mind for the top end, rather than trying to buy all the bottom end bits separately, just to try to take the variables out and to stop me making the mistake of buying the wrong bits! looks like id be able to get it bored to 81.5, but looks like a 0.4mm headgasket which seems very low?? considering stock us 1.2 and trd was 0.8?? but i can do some digging into that. http://www.spoolimports.com/spool-engine-rebuild-kits/toyota/4age-4agze/20v-blacktop-na/20v-blacktop-na-1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
morgey Posted July 9, 2017 Share Posted July 9, 2017 I would probably send them an email, that looks like a build for fairly big power. The pistons are machined for oversized valves and lairy cams. See what else they would recommend to go with it, cam specs head work etc. They may say they will be fine with tomei poncams or mild kelford cams but they are definitely designed for an agressive engine setupIts Fine if you want to build for that but you will loose a bit of drivablility and low/midrange power. But your 200hp goal would be very achievable with that if you're willing to rev the engine and put in the supporting mods to go with it. (Cams, valves, springs, head work, Crank girdle, manual belt tensioner, extra tensioner for long side of the belt. Ditch the vvt etc etc) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Dansstarlet1996 Posted July 9, 2017 Author Share Posted July 9, 2017 it does seem like a race set up tbh, just want to get a little bit more, but struggling to find a kit that isnt either race, or mental money is harder than i was hoping for. i might go with the top set up i was looking at, and then could always use a stock headgasket to even out the compression IF its strong enough. or an equivalent thickness. the main bits i want are the tougher rods, and the top end bits, cams, and the valve springs and seals etc, il have to look into pistons, or i could use stock toyota ones unless theyre weak like the rods? might need to do some thinking about how its going to work and the overall goal of it. really just want a 'bulletproofed' engine as it were, thats going to be fairly reliable and enjoyable to drive. think the issue with mental cams etc is that il have a great top end, but theres only one stretch of dual carriage way on the island, and one decent long road, so no use making mad power and never getting to use it :/ Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Flynn Posted July 9, 2017 Share Posted July 9, 2017 Just boost it ffs 😉 Morgey has contacts for that 👍🏼 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
morgey Posted July 9, 2017 Share Posted July 9, 2017 If i were building a mild engine it would be. Skimmed silvertop or BT head both have advantages, ported and 3 angle valve job. Propably stock valves. Cams would be fast road of sorts amd springs to suit Trd 0.8mm HG Blacktop pistons Silvertop rods, shot peened and balanced to pistons Blacktop crank. Arp bolts throughout Crank girdle or cap supports Lightest flywheel you can find Ecu and mapped to 8500rpm ish. It wouldnt be anything crazy but around te 180hp mark depending on cam choice maybe a touch more. But it would be cheap and fairly reliable. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Dansstarlet1996 Posted July 12, 2017 Author Share Posted July 12, 2017 looking at a similar list to what youve described morgey, going to be collecting some bits over the coming months, ARP head studs arrived today to start it all off Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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