i am so confused with all this turbo tuning!

[eggy790]

ok now ive been reading all the technical section and have completely confused myself.

i will be getting a glanza and wantb at least 200bhp out of it reliably.

now say the glanza is standard. i upgrade the brakes and suspention and then set on getting the power.

what is the best route?

been reading threads and they are so many different options .. different turbos etc. am gettin all confused.. people talking about BOV and acutators lol, dont have a clue what they are etc.

was expecting some sort of step by step guide.. turbos go way more in dephth than the n/a clio im from where when you want 220bhp you know you go for throttle bodies and thats it.. weight reduction etc.

this stuff is way more complicated.. m,ore i read the more am confused..

someone narrow it down and simplify things for me or give me some pointers on where to look for the basics so i can understand..

Cheers

[Glanza-Love]

BOV = Blow off Valve.. ie DUMP VALVE!!!!!!!

[SiCaln]

mate its not a simple process it takes a lot of reading up and i am only now beginning to understand it after 2 yrs!

[Mikey Jay]

N/A ftw!!

[59bhp]

mate its not a simple process it takes a lot of reading up and i am only now beginning to understand it after 2 yrs!

too true, ive had my starlet for about a year now and havent touched the engine really as im not 100% on whats best for it yet,

Read everything you can find on turbocharging and engine tuning in general then you can make up your own mind ;)

[eggy790]

cheers mate, good advice there..

ok say i buy a standard glanza running 133bhp..

and get just a remap done as it is standard from the racingline.. would it make 150bhp?

i think it that will do for the time being till i get my head around the turbo and engine part.

also any need for breathing mods? i.e. induction kits etc.. as i know on clios they a waste..

Cheers

[Marc]

Well lets sa your standard. First off all use the power the engine has and remove factory restrictions:

Catalyser off and replace with a decat pipe such as zep racing item.

Off with the restrictive exhaust and replace with a Blitz Nur Spec, HKS Super Drager, HKS silent power etc or any decent custom made item. Dont go above 2.50inch diameter. I personally think 2.25 is ideal but each to their own.

The standard manifold is restrtictive i the 3rd exhaust runner so if your planning on big power then it'll need replaced or failing to do so may result in the replacement of piston, rings etc.

Next you have your turbo. You can use the standard CT9 which is reliable at 0.8bar or you could turn it up further to 1.0bar but at this the CT9 is super hot and starting to become inefficient. You may buy a Hybrid turbo capable of holding 1.2bar from Toy Tuning/Dave burwash/ Enzo/ Ebay and use that. To turn up the boost on your standard CT9 turbo your going to need to get an actuator that you can adjust so you can alter boost pressure. I recommend the HKS item but Toy Tuning sell one which is probably as good, but i'm a brand whore (,") OR go the TD04 route which is the turbo off a subaru. To do this you'll need fuel management, a modified down pipe to suit the turbo and a modified manifold. Cheaper than the hybrid route in some cases.

After thats done your going to want to get some air flowing in better, we sorted the exit gasses already. An uprated K&N panel filter is a good idea as it is a high flow item, has good filtration properties, fits in the standard air box which has a cold air feed and keeps temps down.

Then Fuel management. This can either be done by the use of a RRFPR and a FCD. Some applications require an uprated fuel pump such as the walbro item which you could pick up for £75 delivered. Easy swap, just under the rear bench theres the tank. OR by using a piggy back ECU such as the Greddy E-manage Blue or Ultimate OR by using an aftermarket ECU such as the Blitz Access ECU which alters fueling parameters up to 1.1bar is it or 1.2 bar? not entirely sure but i aint a ball hair off it. If you go for an E-manage system yu will need to get your vehicle rolling roaded to set up fueling correctly.

you'll need a boost gauge in the cab to monitor what your boosting at and allow you to set your actuator correctly and monitor for any boost problems.

A blow off valve, dump valve or comressor bypass valve is a device which vents turbo pressure to the atmosphere or back to the intake. When the driver releases the accelerator compressed air hits the closed throttle plate which then builds up pressure causing the air to flow back toward the turbo through the fins and this causes turbo to basically stop or commonly refererred to as stall. Some peple run without a DV and have no problems and due to running no DV they get a chatter which is the air being cut through by the turbo. The DV also gives off a fierce whoosh noise. The blitz does this but there is also an HKS SSQV which sounds like a constipated pigeon. more of a squeek!

next your in need of a front mount intercooler, the top mount is on the engine and should be known as the interwarmer! buy a front mount, it lowers the boost charge temp. Colder air is more dense therefore better combustion which equals more power. A small bit of lag is experienced but its not that noticeable, the gains are more noticable. More pull in 3rd,4th, and 5th. you can pick up one from the site traders for about £250 delivered or if you want a brand £400-£500 for an HKS, Blitz item.

The engine will take 200bhp on standard internals but you should think about getting forged internals. Rather expensive though, so you could aim for 180-190bhp to be on the safe side and keep reliability. Theres many people run 200bhp reliably but also some who ran it and fucked their engine. Not nice! You may also want to invest in some sort of Electronic boost controller to assist with boost control. All major jap performace companies sel them such as Blitz/Greddy/HKS etc, some come with self learning capabilites where you plug and play and it determines the cycle duty etc.

Always sort your handling, Coilovers, tyres, Anti-roll bar, Anti lift kit etc. brakes also as you mentioned beforehand are most important. It is expensive modding starlets so be warned, dont get half wae into tuning and go bankrupt and have to sell on to someone else to finish your project.

MM

[ste91]

You might want to have a look at: http://www.carbibles.com/

[SiCaln]

good help there boyos

[eggy790]

excellent reply mate, clarified things. Many Thanks

as for just a remap on the standard glanza with a decat as my friend makes custom ones anyway and k&n panel filter.. what power would that give?

as you mentioned money and since am moving out this year .. i best wait before i actually start on all the major mods.

[eggy790]

car bible link is good thanks..

[Sparky]

Nice write up Marc ;)

Im sure Starlet ECU's arent remappable but someone else can clear that up for you.

First mods I would recommend would be to sort the breathing out. A decent filter, full exhaust system (mani and decat aswell if your are going to keep the CT9 turbo) and a front mount intercooler.

You will hit the fuel cut then so I would recommend getting a HKS actuator to hold boost stable and a fuel cut controller

But before all that you would need a boost gauge and to uprate the brakes and suspension ;)

[Mikey Jay]

From what I've gathered talking to turbo owners, one of the very first things to do is get a decent boost gauge so you can see what's going on

[eggy790]

any names of decent boost gauges?

[Lee_EP82]

Any good well known JDM name hks, blitz, greddy...........

[Guest Enzo]

or a cheapy off ebay like autogauge for 20 quid, thats all ive ever aspired to as they are so cheap