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Jdm N/a Ecu To Fit Ukdm N/a


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  • 3 weeks later...

I checked my ECU this morning, its got two plugs.

@Phil - yeh was thinking that myself about the RON, I'll just wap in some Shell V Power

@RobSR - I have very little knowledge on cars, what would be the reason the car wouldnt run? Ive ordered the glanza S ecu along with the fuel injectors, would I need something else?

Also with this setup of ecu and injectors would I need to upgrade my FPR or would the stock one I have be fine? (I have searched for this already but couldnt find a definitive answer) thanks

Adam

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I checked my ECU this morning, its got two plugs.

@Phil - yeh was thinking that myself about the RON, I'll just wap in some Shell V Power

@RobSR - I have very little knowledge on cars, what would be the reason the car wouldnt run? Ive ordered the glanza S ecu along with the fuel injectors, would I need something else?

Also with this setup of ecu and injectors would I need to upgrade my FPR or would the stock one I have be fine? (I have searched for this already but couldnt find a definitive answer) thanks

Adam

you need the fuel rail of the glanza's', because of the higher fuel pressure.

do you have a knock sensor?

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Uk non turbos don't have knock sensors. As for why it doesn't work, it could be anything.. Knock sensor/ think Glanza s has a different idle control valve/ it has a completely different ignition setup/ immobiliser etc

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I went and had a look. From what I can see I don't think I have a Knock Sensor, although i might have missed it. Do you have a knock sensor?? And does this have any effect using glanza 'S' ecu, fuel rail, injectors??

Adam

yes! now i have one, i took one of the 4e-fte because the glanza's' ecu needs the signal.

you also need a shielded wire,

i took one like this:

http://www.notebooksbilliger.de/image.php/...+cinch+kabel+2m

and build out of it a knock sensor loom :rolleyes:

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When plugging a JDM unit into a UKDM vehicle it'll start but not idle. Never really looked heavily into it as Alan's plans snowballed but I figured the ECU was missing a signal from somewhere. It would probably take us to look at the ECU pin-outs and see what's different.

Jay

Could it be what motion is talking about, a signal from the knock sensor??

Adam

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When plugging a JDM unit into a UKDM vehicle it'll start but not idle. Never really looked heavily into it as Alan's plans snowballed but I figured the ECU was missing a signal from somewhere. It would probably take us to look at the ECU pin-outs and see what's different.

Jay

yea that's what I meant was just been lazy lol. It's the same with the corolla one aswell !

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  • 2 weeks later...

Jap NA redlines higher as well, the uk engine would not handle it because of the different valve springs. you would get bounce.... or so im told :)

somthing i looked into. to be honest guys, mite just be easier putting a 5efe in, with a few other mods and get similar power that way

we know that can be done, and its not overly expensive. can be done on a tight budget. need a slight idea what ure doing though

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  • 2 months later...

If you had opened up the ecu's you would see that the pinouts are different, or rather the same but in different positions, there are only 6 extra wires for the jdm glanza s into a uk 4efe.

Im making a field extension harness to move the wires about for testing. Really to fit a glanza s ecu into a uk 4efe all you need is fte turbo inlet manifold with sensors and the knock sensor as they are same as glanza S. The different wires are just for the cold idle thing so in theory it should work without it. I'll post the pinouts and that later. Mines not fitted ive only started on the harness, thanks to terrx on tgtt for the how to open up the loom plug thread.

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This is different to my pinouts on the uk4efe, but use this template to make to pinout lists, one for your 4efe and one for your jdm ecu. Then go to the loom plugs and on the bottom side pop open the lock plate 1mm or so. Then using a stiff sewing needle or similar, push up the plastic retainers and pull out the pins; one at a time. Then reinsert them to match the jdm ecu. You'll be missing a few so these are where you need to add the knock sensor and any other missing sensor wires. If this sounds like alot of work you really shouldnt be messing with electrics or engines, stick to spoilers and bodykits please. DO NOT just plug in a new ecu to see does it work without first checking the pinouts inside.

4E-FE UK 75BHP ECU pinout

Pin Name Wire color Explanation

Connector 1

1 RSC Gray Rotary Solenoid Close - Cold Idle Speed Control

2 NSW Red Neutral Starter Switch

3 THW Green-Black Water Temparature Signal

4 PIM LightGreen Pressure Intake Manifold

5 THA LightGreen-Black Intake Air Temparature

6 IGT Black-White Ignition Timing

7

8 IGF Yellow Ignition Feedback from the ignitor coil

9 NE- Blue Part of the IIA (Intergrated Ignition Assembly)

10 OX White Oxygen Sensor (Lambda Sensor)

11 STA Red(M/T) or Red-White(A/T) Engine Cranking Signal (Starter Switch)

12 #10 Green Injector Pulse 1 & 3

13 E01 White-Black Computer Ground

14 RSO Black-Red Rotary Solenoid - Cold Idle Speed Control

15 HT Pink-Blue Heated Oxygen Sensor

16 E2 Brown-White Sensor Ground

17 VTA

18 VCC LightGreen-Red Throttle Position Sensor (pin 1)

19

20

21 NE + Green RPM Signal

22 NE - ~ ~

23 ~ Vacuum Switching Valve

24 E1 Brown Computer Ground

25 #20 Yellow Injector Pulse 2 & 4

26 ~ ~ ~

Connector 2

1 ~ ~ ~

2 BATT White-Green Switched Battery Power (+12V) (EFI Main Relay)

3 in my opinion

4 FC Green-Red Circuit Opening Relay (Fuel Cut)

5 ELS Green Electrical Load Signal System Taillight Relay

6

7 TE2 White-Blue Check Connector

8 TE1 Gray Check Connector (Diagnostics)

9 +B Black-Yellow Switched Battery Power (12V)

10 W Green-White Warning Light

11

12 AC1 Pink A/C Switch Signal System (12V to Aircon Computer)

13 SPD Violet Speed Signal

14 ACT Black-White A/C Cut Control System

15 IMI

16 VF Green-Yellow Check Connector Outputs

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4E-FE GLANZA S ECU pinout

Pin Name Wire color Explanation

Connector 1

1 RSC Gray Rotary Solenoid Close - Cold Idle Speed Control

#2 TE1

3 THW Green-Black Water Temparature Signal

4 PIM LightGreen Pressure Intake Manifold

5 THA LightGreen-Black Intake Air Temparature

6 IGT Black-White Ignition Timing

#7 IGF

#8 FAN

9 NE- Blue Part of the IIA (Intergrated Ignition Assembly)

10 OX White Oxygen Sensor (Lambda Sensor)

11 STA Red(M/T) or Red-White(A/T) Engine Cranking Signal (Starter Switch)

12 #10 Green Injector Pulse 1 & 3

13 E01 White-Black Computer Ground

14 RSO Black-Red Rotary Solenoid - Cold Idle Speed Control

#15 TE2

16 E2 Brown-White Sensor Ground

17 VTA

18 VCC LightGreen-Red Throttle Position Sensor (pin 1)

#19 NC

#20 CF

21 NE Green RPM Signal

#22 IPV

#23 KNK

24 E1 Brown Computer Ground

25 #20 Yellow Injector Pulse 2 & 4

#26 HT

Connector 2

#1 SEL --------????????????????

2 BATT White-Green Switched Battery Power (+12V) (EFI Main Relay)

#3 CCO Unknown Check Connector Outputs

4 FC Green-Red Circuit Opening Relay (Fuel Cut)

#5 ELS3

#6 ELS2

#7 ELS4

#8 NSW

9 +B Black-Yellow Switched Battery Power (12V)

10 W Green-White Warning Light

11 EGW Unknown Catalytic Converter Temparature Warning Light (Combination Meter)

12 AC1 Pink A/C Switch Signal System (12V to Aircon Computer)

13 SPD Violet Speed Signal

14 ACT Black-White A/C Cut Control System

#15 ELS1 Unknown Electrical Load Signal System

16 VF Green-Yellow Check Connector Outputs

tHE CONNECTORS MARKED WITH '#' ARE THE DIFFERENCES BETWEEN UK 4EFE AND JDM GLANZA S

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Ok Ive identified most of the pinouts but I need help with these few. What do these abbrevations stand for

EGW

SEL

NC

CF

IPV

Most of the differences in pinouts seem to be the diagnostic ports connectors, meaning the car should run without them, I'll swap round the distributor and igination pins tomorrow and try her out

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