How 2: Fit A Grainger/Bleed Valve To An EP91

[NightSpirit]

Sorry if this has already been covered!

I fitted a grainger valve to the car because I didn't want to use an aftermarket boost controller due to cost and the fact I don't plan on running more than 1 boost setting or something.

Anyway,

again, really easy task, shouldn't take more than 20 mins?

I chose a grainger valve (also called ball and spring) over a conventional bleed valve as a bleed valve does what it says, allows the turbo pressure to bleed away creating a less aggresive boost map..using a grainger doesn't show the actuator any pressure until the desired boost is reached then it 'cracks' open to release the actuator

You'll need:

socket set with long extension bar, 10mm and 12mm sockets I think.

I started by removing the dump valve (be careful as it's only attached to the base pipe with glue or some sealant stuff, if it comes off, you'll need superglue). This is a few hose clips and 1 10mm bolt.

Then remove the turbo to IC pipe for better access. Jubilee clip and 2 10mm bolts should do it.

You can now get proper access to the turbo to actuator pipe...just pull this off no problem.

Now you attach your new pipe to the turbo side (at the back)...then attach the grainger valves bottom connector to the pipe, connect the other pipe to the actuator side and then to the grainger side. Be careful to use enough hose, and don't get any sharp bends or kinks in the hose!!.

Finish off with cable ties round the hose connections and put it all back together.

Make sure the grainger is fully wound OUT to start with and go for a spin (making sure you have a boost gauge ofcourse!).

Get in 3rd gear and floor it in hi boost, you should put out about 0.60 bar...it might spike higher but that's the figure. Pull over and wind the grainger in 1/2 turn...repeat the process until you get a boost level you're happy with. If you don't have an FCD you should notice fuel/boost cut at 0.98bar...so running about 0.90 is safe I reckon?

Sorted.

[NightSpirit]

I fitted an EVC to my mates skyline the other week and it's a doodle...even on a twin turbo setup lol.

Wiring should be the same, you'll need a feed to the manifold pressure or tap into the toyota boost sensor for the evc boost pressure and then the same as the grainger with the boost control. As far as I know that's all you ever need to do to control boost, just cut the pipe from the turbo to the actuator and replace with the selenoid or whatever?

I've got the boost set at 0.74 in low and 0.91 in high...it doesn't seem to be spiking but if it does the fuel cut will hit before any damage is done ;)

Hope this guide was helpful, kind of new on this board and don't want to tell people how to suck eggs...

[scutch0]

I've got the boost set at 0.74 in low and 0.91 in high...it doesn't seem to be spiking but if it does the fuel cut will hit before any damage is done ;)

if you fit one of these does it de restrict 1st & 2nd gear? or does that remain? as i'd like to keep low boost if i can, but i'd like to loose the restriction in 1st & 2nd in high?

nice guide by the way. where did you buy the grainger valve, and how much did it cost?

cheers,

Rich.

[NightSpirit]

Scutch,

This will not derestrict the boost cut in 1st and 2nd gear...it just allows you to run higher boost cheaply.

The grainger valve complete with piping cost 11 quid from Ebay second hand.

EcksJay, it should be easy it fit a boost controller, let me know if I'm wrong but I'm sure what I said is the way it's done pretty much across the board. The hose I used was just some blue silicon stuff, internal diameter is about 2-3mm with a thickness of 3mm, those are guestimates, I'm a man..I always get measurements wrong ;)

Next how-to...fit and cat back exhaust, then change a clutch (that should be interesting).