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Alright? Im hoping somebody on this forum could shed some light on this problem.

Basically I have a n/a 4EFE. The only mods are Glanza 'S' intake and fuel injectors with a HKS panel filter.

Bout a month ago i decided to take my TB off to give it a well needed clean along with the fuel rail. When I connected everything back up I started the car and the choke didn't appear to come on. It was revving at around 1K (stable), where usually it would start at around just under 2K. I didn't think much off it as the car hadn't been started in over a month. So I drove the car about and when I stopped at a set of lights the car was now revving at 2K even though the engine was now warm.

It has been like this for weeks now, same pattern, low idle on cold, high idle on warm, also quite often the idle hunts up and down rapidly, (going from 700rpm to 2000rpm very fast). Although this isn't all the time. At first this didn't bother me, but along with the effect of this the fuel consumption has dropped a fair bit.

Thinking it was maybe a problem with the ICV or TPS i went to my local scrappy and picked up a second hand TB for 50 noop. When I installed this, there was no change whatsoever. I reset the ECU also and double checked for any vac pipes I might have left off and changed the fuel filter along with the spark plugs.

So I took it up to my mechanic and there was no luck their, he tried swapping TB's over and resetting the TB to factory settings through the diagnostic panel. He also tried other things like using gasket sealer around the TB etc he spent over 12hrs trying and testing things bout could not come to a conclusion.

So this morning I took it up to toyota to see if they could diagnose the problem. When I went to pick up my car, they said "because somebody else has worked on the throttle body, we don't want to touch it, because we dont like interfering with other peoples work" but they told me that if you disconnect the sensor plug from underneath the TB the car behaves normally again although it obviously isn't ideal.

So i when i got home I disconnected that plug while the engine was warm and the revs dropped from 2.2k to 1.5k mark and the idle stopped hunting. Then when I connected the plug back the revs went straight back up to over 2.2k and then started hunting erratically again. So I then swapped that whole sensor part of the TB with the other one from another TB. But there is no change at all.

So basically my mechanic can't find the problem as both TB's are giving the exact same results and toyota wont go near the car!

Only thing i can think of is that both TB's have malfunctioning ICV's. But i doubt it as before i disconnected the TB everyting was working fine, now that its back together its not.

Has anybody had this problem, or know of anything else for me to try? any input would be much appreciated.

Here are some vids if they help.

Car with everything connected

Bottom sensor disconnected then reconnected

Thanks

Adam

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Was the throttle position sensor calibrated after it had been replaced? Loosen it start the car n give it a wiggle around to see It makes any difference to the revs.

Also are the powersteering/map/fuel reg vac pipes on properly??

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Was the throttle position sensor calibrated after it had been replaced? Loosen it start the car n give it a wiggle around to see It makes any difference to the revs.

Also are the powersteering/map/fuel reg vac pipes on properly??

Im not sure about the TPS being calibrated, is that something you could do yourself? I loosened it there and no change to the revs, if anything though they went higher. Yeh i have double checked the pipes, fuel regulator, and the other 2 that go into the intake mani.

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Did you move it up and down a little when you loosend it? How is the car when Driving??? There's a little pipe on top of the TB is that connected??

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lets start with the basics first and work our way up.

have you tried making the idle lower with idle screw.

normally there is a little nut, that you have to loosen then you might be able to decrease the idle.

can also take a picture of inside the throttle body with the air intake pipe off. i need to see the butterfly.

also double check the pipes have not split or are blocked. specially the idle control valve pipe which is thin.

let us know how it goes

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this is 100 percent identical to my mates civic( not the guy that keeps changin his mind :) ) got a different inlet mani put on and it sits at about 2k or above and goes up and down when should be idling.

same situation. garages have looked I've been round and swapped the whole throttle body and some sensors and nothing so if ya ever find out the problem mate send me a pm or somethin.

if someone with an n/a would be nice enough the could fiddle abotu swapping stuff on a working car to see if they could get it to go the same way and then ya would know how to fix it.

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Fiddling with the idle screw is the LAST resort to any idle problem, if a cause cannot be found then it should be adjusted. It is factory set and has yellow paint/lock tight on to keep it that way...

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my seo does same thing but from 1.5-2 people on tpc told me that shud be air control valve

x2

had the same problem on my 205, in the acv there was a screw which i adjusted while the car was running brought it down from 3k(hunting) to a nice steady 900rpm

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Did you move it up and down a little when you loosend it? How is the car when Driving??? There's a little pipe on top of the TB is that connected??

Do you mean loosen as in start to remove the plug? or the actual screws? The car drives 100%, only when stopped the idle problems kick in like. Its so annoying, when people are crossing at the lights they think i'm going to run them over because the cars revving up and down like mad lol. And yeh that pipe is connected at the top.

try taking the live of the battery for 15 mins and then back on again this may sort out the tps worth a try.

dale

Just tried that there now, also pulled out the EFI with it, but no luck.

Fiddling with the idle screw is the LAST resort to any idle problem, if a cause cannot be found then it should be adjusted. It is factory set and has yellow paint/lock tight on to keep it that way...

Totally agree with this, it's not getting to the root of the problem, although nobody as of yet can seem to find the problem, so this is looking the only way to sort out the idle, although im not going to do this just yet, il hang off for a bit until ive went through all other possibilities.

my seo does same thing but from 1.5-2 people on tpc told me that shud be air control valve

Yeh I've had a few people say this. where abouts is the air control valve on a 4E/5E? So i can check it out?

I've now checked my ignition timing. another thought I had was the chance that I got the pipes connecting to the TB mixed up? also noticed a slight leak of coolant coming from one of the pipes of TB. Maybe thermostat not working?

The car as it stands now, has high idle at start and when warm rapidly hunts up and down.

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this is happening to my brothers civic but only the revs drop really low and the car sometimes cuts out,

i changed the oil and all and then it was fine, (i didnt think changin the oil was gunna fix it he just needed 1 lol) and it stopped

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this is happening to my brothers civic but only the revs drop really low and the car sometimes cuts out,

i changed the oil and all and then it was fine, (i didnt think changin the oil was gunna fix it he just needed 1 lol) and it stopped

Im due an oil change now anyway. i just checked it, its on the min line :)

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