Check List For Forged 4efte, And N/a To Turbo Conversion

[ryan lang]

im buying a 4efte at the end of the month with a bottom end gone, ive been told it wil need a crank regrind/replaced. new shells and bearings, but what else will i be needing to rebuild the whole engine, not too worried about cost because im going to be doing it over a long period of time, so if some1 could do me an exact checklist, or everyone chip in there part then that would be awesome.

as this will be the 1st time ive done this, my dads rebuilt motorbike engines, so ill need the torque settings and timing and all that jazz lol

cheers in advance guys

EDIT: and also what the best pistons, rods and headgaskets to get? and what ill need for the conversion

[ryan lang]

nobody?

[Dan Evans]

pistons (preferably bigger than 74mm)

Rods

main,crank and thrust bearings

ARP Crank bolts

standard headset

headgasket (standard is fine or uprated depending on boost)

waterpump

oil pump (only if the old one is fooked)

cambelt kit

head bolts (ARP or standard depending on boost)

oil pressure switch

oil filter

injector seals

oil filter housing gasket

lots of sealent!!

head needs skimming and so does the block

block needs re-boring

cant think of anything else atm

[ryan lang]

thats awesome dude, cheers, anyone else care to add? lol

ill obviously need wiring looms and glanza clocks, but will i need a glanza dash? or will mine be fine as it is?

[Dan Evans]

i dont know to be honest dude as i havent done a conversion, i would of thought its fine to use your dash

[ryan lang]

alrite mate cheers, its gunna take me a while to do anyway so i can always pop back to this thread

ill have to change the title so people who have done the conversion can help me too lol

cheers anyway mate

[ryan lang]

what pistons and rods are best mate?

or have you gotta use certain 1s for certain things? like in pairs or can you mix and match brands?

[Dan Evans]

i went for 75mm weisco pistons with scat rods

[ryan lang]

alrite mate tah so they can be mixed then?

[Dan Evans]

yeah because only certain companies do certain parts, like weisco only do the pistons, and scat only do the roads.

aslong as there for a 4efte then yeah you will be fine

[ryan lang]

ahhh rite, i got you, cheers mate

[riko666]

It depends what you want out of the setup in the end - SCAT rods are very cheap, as are Wiseco pistons, however SCAT rods need the block notched for example and are rather heavy connecting rods compared to others on the market. You have to prioritise your requisites and then your expenditure

[ryan lang]

im not to bothered about cost because its going to be a long time before its all together and in the car so ive got time to save for parts and that lol

what would you reccomend dude?

[ryan lang]

bumppp ;)

anyone whos done the conversion care to have an input please as this would be a big help

[Jozinobi]

Before investing in all of the engine parts and goodies I'd make sure that you have a decent wire loom and dash loom that is specific for the engine you are putting in EP82 or EP91 4EFTE.

To me a good wiring job is the bread and butter of a decent n/a to turbo conversion as well as making sure you can insure it.

Will you be attempting the wiring yourselves or get an experienced autospark to help?

A full 'dash out' EP91 glanza loom conversion is the most time consuming (ask streetracer_starlet) and costly if not done yourself.

For my conversion we used a running EP82 FTE and had the dash and engine looms custom wired into my entire n/a looms.

If you know someone that has done it before it'd save you a lot of hassle and is worth paying.

Also forging as well as rebuilding an engine is pretty expensive to do properly. The cost soon mounts up.

The used engine you will be using should ideally be inspected by the engine builder who is doing the work for you.

You did mention you have a large timescale so you'd be able to gather the parts at your own pace and save up etc.

When the engine is rebuilt and forged it will need proper machine work to both head and bottom end to ensure clearances are spot on, valves seat properly, balancing etc and that everything is A1. Just thought I'd mention some of the things that I'd consider which you hadn't mentioned

There are many ways to go about doing this but thats my input of what I have experienced so far with my recent conversion which I was very lucky to get so much help with. It still cost me but it was something that I had really been wanting to do. So glad I did.

Torque settings and timing can be found all over the net.

Joz

[Asad]

ross pistons and pauter rods are another combo

what are you doing with regards to the wiring looms? imho this is the hardest part when going N/A > turbo

[ryan lang]

cheers for the input buddy, will i need to mix and match looms if ive got an ep91 engine and ep82 gearbox? because thats what ive got lined up at the moment, and ive got glanza dials lined up too, im gunna get everything machined pretty much, and ill get them to make the baerings and stuff to match the ground crank, and as for the wiring, is it just the case of ripping the old 1 out and putting the new 1 in its place? if ive got the glanza dials? or do i need to keep some of the n/a loom and wire them together? and my dad has built a few engines, so once the machining is done he should be able to sort that out for me, depending on how straight forward the electrical side is ill call in a mate to give me a hand,

do you know the torque settings for the engine and such?

im trying to gather all the conversion parts 1st so that when the engine rebuild goes underway, it wont be waiting around for me to gather parts once its built

and will i definitely need an engine crane, or would taking the smash bars of be okay? because last time i had the bumper off im sure they all unbolt :s or am i dreaming that part? lol

cheers again

[Asad]

if you`ve got a glanza engine, it would be easier to get a glanza interior loom (totally replace both the N/A ones) u`ll be able to fit the clocks without ball ache then

nothing electrical fits into the gearbox, just the speedo cable so no worries there

if you`ve got plenty of time take everything out and tart it up

wings

lights

bumper

bonnet.....all off

[ryan lang]

yes, by time i mean to get everything sorted, but actually dropping the engine in and converting it needs to be done pretty sharpish lol, so would i just be able to pull the old looms and and stick the new 1s in? it will just be a case of finding the right places for the loom to plug into, but if i can do a rough draft when the engine is out the car ill label them all up, would i be able to do it out of the car? just to label them ready for when they go into the car?

[Jozinobi]

The gearboxes are interchangable so no need to worry about that.

I'm using a 4EFE gearbox with QUAIFE diff in mine.

Its all easier said than done Asad. Check Streetracer_Starlet's turbo conversion and you will see the pure pain of the whole dash out job.

I've not seen many use the glanza dials but if you have the whole dash loom and are prepared to take out the whole dash there is no reason why they wouldn't work. I use Paseo ones myself.

I'm glad to hear you will be getting everything machined properly etc instead of just throwing it in.

An engine crane would be the ultimate peace of mind. Would be ideal if you could get a lend off someone local.

Ryan you have pm.

Joz

[Asad]

Nothings hard, a bit of patience is all thats needed......im sure ryan is a patient and dedicated lad out to do us ep egg heads proud

[ryan lang]

cheers dude ill have a read now

and yeh not gunna cut corners with it because i dont want it to blow up in my face lmao, what turbo and goodies do you recommend or would i be able to use a standard good condition 1 to run it in? im planning on porting and gas flowing a standard mani, i dont want it to be stupidly powerful, but i would like to have the comfort of knowing i can make people look stupid in bigger cars and still be able to get home after it lol

what size bore and pistons do you recommend?

[Jozinobi]

The stage I'm at now is before boost as my engine is still being run in (up to 700 miles), with not too long to go.

Its already prepared/ready engine and modwise for the 1bar treatment which I will be doing once I get my emanage U set up later on.

The red EP is running:

CT9B

HKS Actuator

Properly ported standard exhaust mani

Screamer Decat

HKS Full exhaust

Standard TMIC

Standard Airbox/TRD Panel

Blitz Dump Valve

Walbro Fuel Pump

Apexi Boost Gauge

Emanage Ultimate waiting in the wings.

The first step will be to setup the boost and then have her RR tested to see how she is running and of course her output.

I had a lot of the engine build done for me, with just myself gathering the aftermarket parts (and paying bills) but I was still very much involved with the learning process.

As you are going forged you will have a whole heap of options available to you. Just to let you know the running in process is slightly longer for forged engines than standard rebuilds.

So many ways you can start off, obvious and safest way so you can get used to the power is a CT9 setup.

It'd help run the engine in and would also keep you safer on the roads until you are ready for the upgrade.

After that you will need to decide on something more wholesome as the whole purpose of the forging is so that you can run higher boost more reliably on a range of different turbos ranging from hybrids to larger turbos such as TD04/TD05/Garret etc. The forging still doesnt guarantee your engine will be invincible as it will all be up to the tune and if your engine/setup was installed properly.

As for piston bore size and brand, you will need the block notched so at least a bore size of 74.5mm which is standard procedure or a maximum of 75mm which is the most logically that you can take off the block, seeing as the walls in-between are pretty thin. Wiseco is what I'd be looking at personally as they are tried and tested.

Its your build so try to have an idea of what brands or parts you'd like to use so you can make your own mark on it.

You can't go wrong with tried and trusted jdm brands such as Blitz, Apexi, HKS etc for engine/tuning goodies.

Simple research is pretty easy to do. Keep your eye out for bargains and rare parts which do crop up from time to time.

Thats a small taster of how I look at it, take what you will

The guys who have walked the walk will be able to continue deeper ;)

Joz

[ryan lang]

yes have to get onto jay lol

and there are rods that the block doesnt need notching for tho arent there? or would i be better off getting scat rods and wiseco pistons to be on the safe side?

ive also been speaking to idrees about it, and seen wha hes has done to his, and ive been looking at his pics too

it will be trying to find some1 to do the machine work that will be a biatch, but im sure ill find it, what did you do in the way of uprated brakes dude?

[Jozinobi]

The block needs to be at least honed/crosshatched to accept the new pistons and piston rings.

It will need bored/machined if there is any stressing or pitting in the cylinders after inspection.

I haven't heard of any pistons that will fit straight in, but thats just me.

Scat rods would be the cheapest brand of forged rod out there and I'm not knocking them.

If it was my build I'd go Wiseco or Ross for pistons (both are tried and tested) and something different for rods (not scat)

Pauter rods would be one choice or even something rare and jdm at cost e.g HRF.

I'm running Levin AE101 Twin Pots and 260mm discs/Endless pads at the front and standard drums at the back

Joz